A North Morocco Motorhome Road-trip Taster

A North Morocco Motorhome Road-trip Taster

North Morocco Motorhome Road-trip Taster


 If you’re new to Morocco, the thought of visiting with your motorhome with its unfamiliar culture, can be overwhelming. What if we could offer you a road-trip taster where you can build your confidence with this African beauty? In this blog we introduce you to north Morocco, with its lush green rolling hills, stunning Rif mountains, beautiful coastlines, Roman ruins and intriguing cities that will leave a mark on your heart. Are you ready to join us? If so, read on.

With evocative sights, sounds and smells Morocco embodies everything that travel represents. A new culture, a different way of life and colours and textures that will blow your mind. If these very words, however, strike fear into your hearts, then you are not alone. Lots of people tell us that they are nervous about travelling to Morocco by motorhome, yet secretly when they see the pictures that we post, really want to try. This specifically designed self-guided tour will help initiate you into Morocco with a gentleness that will allow you to cut your teeth and build your confidence. We have created this route based on our own experiences from our last three trips, so we offer this from a place of experience.

First things first, here’s the Interactive Map that you can follow for Morocco by motorhome tour, which will take you between 2 and 4 weeks. You have lots of options depending upon how comfortable you feel once you’re here. There are lots of optional extras that you can build in should you feel inclined.The choice is yours.


Stop 1 – Asilah

Exit the port and turn right! Your Morocco by motorhome adventure, starts now.

Quite simply you’re going to hop on the A5 Toll Road for about 90 minutes, which takes you through countryside that you could be forgiven for thinking were the rolling hills of England. Taking your exit from the motorway at the Coastal Route N1, you are within 20 minutes of your first, beautiful destination. Morocco’s motorways are, by the way far better than many European and certainly UK motorways, and you will pay approximately 70MAD, (€7) for the pleasure of this journey. The coastal N1 teases you with peeks of the Atlantic’s rich blue, with its tempestuous seas crashing into sandy beaches; a sight that will become a familiar as you head south. Posh street lights signal that you are close to your destination, as will the Roundabout Police as we have come to label them. They stand at said roundabout or at entry to a town, where you will be expected to slow down for potential inspection, of what we have never quite found out, and then be waved on.

What you will see

Asilah is known as the ‘Artist’s Town’ and as you wander its pristine white-washed Medina you soon understand why. With street art adorning many walls, colour explodes in front of you and you find yourself enticed into the the narrow alleys within the fortress walls. The smell of freshly baked bread might lure you or may be the sound of the ocean as it crashes into the fortress walls will call you. Or your first Call to Prayer might stop you in your tracks. Either way, Asilah will gently bring you into Morocco’s Muslim culture, where it holds your hand and guides you towards this north African way of life. The souk here is one of the most gentle introductions you can have to the life of the Moroccan markets. Colourful rugs, pungent nougat, leatherwear and a kaleidoscope of clothing await you. If you wander further into the ‘new’ town you will see the daily street sellers, which is a different experience altogether and, if you feel brave enough, head to the far end of the town, where you will find an old Jewish cemetery that has been renovated in honour of the town’s ancestors. One of the main reasons for coming here, aside of its gentle Medina, is to get your Data sim cards from either Maroc Telecom or Inwi – both of which are marked on the map.

Where to stay

There are three options for Asilah depending upon your needs and desires. There are two campsites; we stay at the Camping Aassada, which whilst basic is adequate enough. The one next door is of similar layout and quality. Or if you go towards the historic centre along the coastal road, there is Guardian Parking, where plenty of motorhomes hang out. The advantage is that you are right outside the fortress walls.

Heading away from the coast, you can now look forward to some inland Moroccan experiences. The west coast is always a tantalising prospect with those rich ocean blue seas, although as an all-round Moroccan experience, inland is a must.

Stop 2 – Moulay Bousselham – traditional fishing village

Hopping down the road, Moulay is not a typical place to stop, although if you love birdlife then this can be a good place to drop off at. After the sharp lines and cleanliness of Asilah, Moulay is far more Moroccan in its culture. The town is less pristine although the beach on the northern edge of town and the fishing culture down on the lagoon really introduce you to rural Morocco.

What you will see

If you go down to the fishing harbour – if you can call it that; you will find Hussain who is an excellent guide for the Lagoon. A two-hour trip will give you a fabulous view of the area from the water and get a sense of life in Moroccan driven by the ocean. You’ll see flamingoes and ospreys thanks to the eagle-eyes of your guide.

The beach is lovely to walk and the town is rustic and almost of a run down nature – well at least it was in 2020 during our maiden trip. An afternoon and night here is probably all you will need and is a good cultural introduction to life on the coast.

Where to stay

Sadly the International Campsite is a Covid victim and no longer open. Although a couple of homestays have opened up their doors to motorhomes, which you can find on Park for Night. The nicest of them looks to be La Casa Latifa overlooking the lagoon.


Stop 3 – Mohammedia – in preparation for Rabat and Casablanca

On the tolls roads coming south you can reach Mohammedia in about 2.5hrs. The cost of the tolls is miniscule in comparison to European fees, so never feel worried about taking them; and it is a very smooth drive. Don’t be driven by European driving strategies of always avoiding tolls. Morocco is different and timings will be doubled at least. Make it easy on yourself. Be prepared though to see some strange sights, such as random people walking along the motorway edges, shepherds and their flock and very unstable looking vehicles with loads far too tall.

If you want to break up your journey, then there is a very European-style campsite at Kenitra called Camping International Mehdia with its good facilities and swimming pool. Whilst there is not much to see in the area, and there are a fair few stray dogs around it is a nice pit stop if you would like some time out. Otherwise head to Mohammedia for your city immersion.

What you will see

Mohammedia is not a destination in itself, as it is mostly a commuter city for Rabat and Casablanca. Although you will find a Decathlon and a large Marjane supermarket about a mile from the campsite. What this place does offer you is the perfect position for visiting capital city Rabat and Casablanca via the train and we highly recommend this form of transport. The trains are efficient, cheap and clean. You can be in either city within 20 minutes via a taxi to the station which costs you just 5MAD per person, one way.

Rabat is Morocco’s capital. The title has changed hands a few times in Morocco’s history and it was just in 1955 that Rabat was its final capital resting place. If you choose to drive here, you will experience no archetypal city traffic; we found it was a dream to drive right into the centre, and out again. Check out our video here. The Kasbah is incredible, the Lighthouse beautiful and the Mausoleum just one of those sites you just have to visit. The souk is very gentle, inside of the city walls and all-round we thoroughly enjoyed our short visit here and would not hesitate to come back.

If you wanted to stay in the city, then there is a parking place at the lighthouse which is guardian parking. We understand that you can overnight there, although we think that Mohammedia is a much better option for your first visit to Morocco.

Casablanca is far removed from Rabat, in our experience. It is the cultural and financial centre of Morocco and thereby the largest in the country. It has a cosmopolitan feel to it and so has little of the culture that we often crave from this African beauty. That said, there are some aspects to the city that are worthy of exploring. Although we didn’t make it on our trip the King’s Royal Palaces are always good to see, the Arab Gardens, Mohammed V Square that’s a bit like Trafalgar Square in London and of course the coastal mosque, Hassan II that is the defining monument of the city.

Built in 1993, this 210m minaret is the tallest in the country and during on the hour at 09.00, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00 and 1500, you can pay to have a tour of the mosque, which is the only one that allows foreigners to enter, and women too. Just make sure, unlike us, that you arrive on the nose of your chosen visiting time, otherwise you will have to wait. We unfortunately were too late for our 3pm visit, thanks to some misinformation from a local. We highly recommend visiting The Loft and Sqala both in walking distance of the mosque for coffee, lunch or just for a simple ice cream.

Where to stay

Both Camping Mimosa and L’Ocean Bleu are worth staying at for easy reach of both cities via the train network.


Stop 4 – Heading inland towards Meknes and Volubilis

Heading away from the coast, you can now look forward to some inland Moroccan experiences. The west coast is always a tantalising prospect with those rich ocean blue seas, although as an all-round Moroccan experience, inland is a must.

What will you see

Your route will take you along the toll road linking Casablanca, Rabat and Meknes, which totals around 120 miles. The whole journey will cost you less than €10, which is a small investment to get you long distances with ease. Meknes is one of Morocco’s five Imperial cities and is steeped in history. It has its Lahdim Square (think Indiana Jones) and the famous Bab El Mansour gate. Sadly during 2023 they have been doing work on the whole city walls and square, so it is not a pretty sight. So we recommend that you just check in with its progress before deciding to stop there.

We were not keen on Meknes and we find it difficult to put our finger on why. It is a very busy city and whilst the city walls are pretty in their honey coloured hue, the square felt very intense, full of monkeys, snake-charmers and Henna tattoo artists aggressively looking for a buck.

If it is still under renovation or the city doesn’t appeal to you either, then within 30 minutes you have the ‘not to miss’ Roman ruins at Volubiliis. However many Roman ruins you may have seen on your travels, don’t by-pass this as a UNESCO site, it offers you the uniqueness of its uncovered mosaics. It is well worth a visit for a couple of hours.

Where to stay

We highly recommend a one-night stop en route to Meknes and whilst only about 90 minutes from Mohammedia, it’s a perfect place to call home. Hacienda des Cigognes is a private vineyard, which is not a word you expect to see in a post on Morocco. You are welcomed to stay for free, with EHU, showers and a meal with the family if you wish and a free wine tasting. Of course there is the opportunity to buy some of their wine, and it is a great quality drink, on a par with Rioja we thought.

Then if Meknes has completed its reconstruction, then there is Guardian Parking within the city walls for just 50MAD. We have experienced the parking and it is secure and peaceful at night.

And if that doesn’t suit you, then just continue on the road to Volubilis and find Camping Sidi Ali for 115MAD per night all inclusive. And after a busy few days city visiting and driving, a couple of days chilling out here might be just what the doctor ordered.


Stop 5 – Azrou and the Cedar Forest monkeys – optional extra

If you are finding your Moroccan groove and feel like a little extension to your trip, then why not build in this step. From Meknes you head south to the Berber capital of Azrou just 40 miles away. Azrou is not only a beautiful town to explore, with its Andalusian roofs and Berber market, you also have the Cedar Forests and the wild Barbary Apes. The drive up to the forest is itself wonderful and if you love walking then there are plenty of options. Or just to simply drive there, park up and watch the monkeys play between your van and the trees, is a real Moroccan experience.

Where to stay

You have two options; the first is a wild spot if you feel adventurous (33.420502, -5.17136). At the upper picnic area you will find a flat area where you can stay overnight without any issues. Ali the Berber artisan will visit you selling his own hand-made goods and of course, monkey nuts for his neighbours. I bought a lovely cedar fruit bowl on our first visit.

The second option is to visit International Euro Camping just a couple of miles out of Azrou. This is great stopover where the family welcome you to their home with free bread and a swimming pool if you’re there in season all for 100MAD pn. You can either walk into the town or grab one of the Petit Taxis for just a few Dirham. It’s a lovely place to hang out for a couple of days and rest.


Stop 6 – Imperial Fez – a tale of two cities

Just an hour and a half north, your next stop is Fez. Yet another Imperial city, this definitely winds up on the ‘crazy’ stakes. Staying outside of the city, a taxi into the hub will give you a great cultural experience. Fez is split into two cities; Fez el Bali and Fez el Jdid, carved in half by the river and both offer the visitor something slightly different.

What you will see

We visited twice, as there was just so much to see. Day 1 we started at the Tanneries, which are free to enter. It’s quite an education, despite what your slaughtering values might be. You will be given a sell on exit, although you do not need to feel obliged to buy anything, although tipping your guide is appropriate. You can then take a wonder through the Medina taking in the sights, the smells and the rather claustrophobic narrow streets. Head your way to Saffarine Square, which is full of metal artisans and there is a lovely place for lunch at Fassie Délecie.

Day 2 we got our taxi to drop us at the Royal Palace for a few pictures, then we walked through the other part of the city and the souks. Big tip is ideally start at the Blue Gate so that you are walking downhill. It’s quite a climbing going the other way. If you want somewhere fantastic for lunch, then head for the Water Clock, which is fascinating in itself, then go to the Cafe Clock, which I have marked on the map.

Where to stay

Your best bet is to stay at Camping Diament Verte which is on the outskirts of the city close to the commercial centre. Whilst it is a taxi drive away, it is by far the safest option. The site is big with little formality and the facilities are a little basic although it gives you a base to work from.


Stop 7 – Rif Hotel and Chefchaouen

Now it is time to head north. Your northern tour is not quite at an end, although you are definitely on the home run. 2.5hrs towards the Blue city of Chefchaouen you have a fabulous stopping off point that will enable you to defibrillate from the chaos of Fez. Hotel Rif is a busy little join that has a stunning swimming pool with camping pitches around the outside. For 100MAD per night including a 20% discount at the restaurant and free crepes in the morning, this is a wonderful place to just unwind a little. Travel is tiring and building in places like this, feels pretty important.

What you will see

Then its onwards to Chefchaouen, which for many is the highlight of their Moroccan trip. Nicknamed the Blue Pearl, this 14th century Kasbah and Medina is full of blue character. Thought to ward off mosquitos or simply to attract tourists, you will be blinded by its blueness. Built into the side of the mountain, Chefchaouen is loosely translated as Look at the Horns, which refers to the mountains that frame the city. The souk is a gentle affair and there is never any hassle to buy. Just heads up though the alleyways are quite slippery, so just be mindful. Also above the old town you will find a waterfall, old washing houses and a fascinating irrigation system for the area. And for the more serious hikers, the Rif mountains create a playground for some robust walks, if this is your thing.

Where to stay

There are two options. The first is Guardian Parking which is right in the heart of the town. Fair warning though, it is not pretty, although it is super convenient for the Medina and the path for the waterfalls. At 40MAD for day and night time parking, it’s certainly a bargain.

There is a campsite about 20 minutes outside of the town, which means a bit of a walk to visit the old town and potentially a taxi back, although again, if your preference is to stay somewhere a bit more familiar, then this is a good option.

Now at this point, you have an option. You can now either head back directly to Tangier Med and catch the next day ferry; or if you would like another extension, then you can take the coast road back to the port. The only heads up we would give you, is that the overnight stops along the coast tend to be more wild spots in beach car parks rather than campsites or aires. So your choice to do a bit of the coast may be influenced by this factor. We will leave it to you.


Stop 8 – Mediterranean Coastal route – optional extra

From Chefchaouen, if you decide to take a few more days in Morocco before heading back, then the coastal route back offers a completely new perspective. We took four days to drive just a little of this coastline, to get a flavour of it before heading inland.

What you will see

The P4105 route travels through the Talassemtane National Park and the Rif mountains, on good quality roads. You will drive through gorges winding around the mountains like a serpent, then down into the fertile valley where agriculture is king. After an hour you arrive at Oued Laou where you hang a left at the coast. Then you pass through the outskirts of Tetouan and Martril, hugging the coast until you reach M’diq and finally Fnideq, before the final push to the port at Tangier med.

This last leg is a bit of a mind-blowing experience as from M’diq through to Fnideq is like something out of a Caribbean brochure. Not what you would expect from Morocco. Charming promenades, Blue Flag beaches and five star Beach and Golf Resorts. This affluence is a shock to the system and certainly a very different perspective of this African country. It’s an interesting side that will leave your Moroccan road-trip with a colourful centre to it. It’s a fascinating drive, even if only for a couple of days, just to see how the other half live.

Where to stay

There are some wild spots along the way which you can pick up from Park4Night, or you can push onto M’diq where there is an informal campsite at La Ferme with services, although no EHU. Whilst it is a long driving day, La Ferme will give you a safe sanctuary for a couple of down days. M’diq looked like a really nice town worthy of a taxi drive. La Ferme is just 60MAD per night. We stayed for a night at Fnideq in one of the town’s beach car parks, which cost us just 10Mad to the Guardian although again it all depends on how comfortable you feel without a campsite. Certainly you have some options. There are a lot of Police around this affluent area, so safety never seems to be in question. We were never quite sure whether to be bothered that they were present or comforted by their presence. Either way, we are glad to have experienced just a little bit of the coastal landscape, which is so different to the western, Atlantic coastline.


Getting ready for your African road-trip

Having now enticed you with the tour, it is time to talk practicalities so you can prepare yourself physically and mentally for your Moroccan road-trip.

First things first, arriving in Morocco is not a matter of just turning up like most countries we are likely to visit in Europe. Preparation is key:

  1. Green Card covering Morocco
    Check with your insurers to see if you are covered under your current policy for Morocco. There are only a few who will cover you fully comp; Saga and LV being two, the others who do cover may only offer you a 3rd party green. Your options are to get 3rd Party cover at the Moroccan border for around 100€ per month (you’ll need to take cash), or speak to Sterling Insurance, who may provide you with temporary cover for the duration of your trip. They are most likely to offer you 3rd party, although potentially fully comp – at an eye watering price. We were quoted £934 for three months cover in January 2023.
  2. Gas saving strategies
    Morocco has no LPG supplies, so a strategy to conserve your gas is absolutely necessary. You can, as we have done, buy a gas converter then buy a local bottle to either run your Cadac or similar outdoor bar-be-que or you can back fill if you are desperate via your outside bar-be-que point.
  3. Pets
    The following information has been received by the Inspector of Animal Health at Algeciras.If you are brining over cats or dogs, then you need to make sure that their Rabies injections are up to date and within their 3 year efficacy period. You must visit a Spanish vet for a Titre test (which is an antibody test for rabies which must read >0.5UI/ml). The blood sample is assessed by an approved laboratory and you may need to wait for 10-14 days for the results to be returned. That result will then be written into your animal’s pet passport in Section VI and you will be issued with an Animal Health Certificate by the vet. This must be issued within 24hrs of your arrival in Morocco.It is important to ensure that you have your ferry tickets ready, as you must present your AHC and Pet Passport to the officials at the PIF office, which for Algeciras can be found at the address below. They are open from 0830-1430 and 1600-2000. They will give you all you need to export and import your animal.  In terms of Pet Insurance, again it is important that you speak to your insurer as many don’t cover Morocco. Here are the coordinates for the PIF building. (36.1349807, -5.4396946)

    Edificio de sanidad animal
    1st Floor
    Puesto de Control Fronterizo
    Muelle Juan Carlos I

  4. Vehicle checkGiven that you are unlikely to have breakdown cover even if you do get your Green Card, it is worthy of spending some time checking over your vehicle. Oil, tyres, radiator reservoir and bulbs. We suggest making sure that you have spare bulbs, because if the police catch you with a faulty light, you will have a small window to get it replaced, after which they will fine you. We also suggest that you buy a couple of tyre repair kits to help you to manage getting to the nearest town should you get a puncture.
  5. Purchase tickets and store drones
    There is really only one place to buy your tickets and that is from Carlos, whose business Vaijes Normandie will sort out your ferry crossing and supply you with Dirhams. You can find Carlos, who is a legend and a real person at these coordinates at Palmones Commercial Centre, about 15 minutes from the Port in Algeciras. (33.44333, -5.441332) He takes credit card payment although will want cash for the Dirhams; generally exchanging it at 1€ – 10MAD.Then if you have a drone, you will need to store it for your trip duration as they are banned from Morocco. We use Central Box at this coordinates. Speak to Jacinta and tell him we sent you for a good rate. (36.157233, -5.454519).
  6. Overnight Parking before your ferry
    The Port parking we used to use now has barriers, so we found a new spot, which is actually far better. Here are the coordinates. It is also on Park 4 Night. (36.119832, -5.441886). You are a five minute drive to the Port from here, so it is ideal.


For a comprehensive Entry and Exit to Morocco, we suggest you check out our Morocco by Motorhome Playlist on Youtube and download our eBook which comprehensively cover how the process works.


Things to know about Morocco

Morocco is a very different culture, as you would expect and so to have a heads-up on what to expect will help soften the blow, so to speak. So here are some pointers.

  • Morocco’s Toll Roads are excellent and generally speaking so much quieter and quicker than going through the National or Regional Roads. They are very cheap so expect to pay around €10 for a 120 mile journey.
  • Morocco’s other roads vary greatly. Some have more bounce than Tiggr. Although we have been on worse roads in Italy, Ireland and the UK.
  • If you bring a trailer or motorbike, you will firstly need to get insurance separately for the scooter and the trailer – called a Remorque will increase your Toss prices marginally.
  • Campsites are reasonably cheap and will include EHU most often. It not always a good voltage, so don’t put too much on at one time as you will overload the system.
  • Shower facilities are pretty good, and although basic in quality they are clean.
  • It helps if you can have some French. English is slowly being integrated into society as they see it as the International language, although some places it is better to converse in French if you can.
  • Weather in the winter can vary from 16-24º. The Mountains are very much colder at night, so expect temperatures to drop to below 5º. November to February can be wet and windy although come March, the temperatures reset and you will have beautiful sunny days.
  • Children might approach you in car parks asking for ‘stilo’ or ‘bon bon’. Whilst it is tempting to give into their innocence, please don’t. We were advised by a local, that if we give into their begging, we just perpetuate their behaviours and create an expectation and a habit that ‘we don’t need to work because the foreigners will look after us. If you want to add some value, then buy some colouring in books and crayons and take them to a community or school where they can be distributed fairly.
  • Whilst driving expect the unexpected. Have eyes in the back of your head and keep journey times as short as possible. Driving here is mostly quite easy, although it does take quite a lot of concentration. If Google Maps says an hour, then allow for at least 90 minutes. You will hear yourself say, many a time, ‘What does he think he is doing?’ Although you will soon get used to random people and animals walking on carriageways.
  • Police checks are everywhere, so do not be tempted to drive over the speed limit and if you are unclear what the speed is, then do 60 and you’ll be fine. Police tend to position themselves at roundabouts quite often and also at the entry and exit from towns. You will be asked to slow down on your approach to these Checkpoints and then they will wave you through.
  • We suggest you keep your vehicle documents accessible, just in case they stop you and want to check your paperwork.
  • Expect roosters, barking dogs and Calls to Prayer to pepper your days and nights. It’s all part of the experience.


So there we have it. Your introductory Morocco by motorhome tour, that will take you up to one month. It will give you access to some of the main northern sights, introduce you gently to the culture here and hopefully encourage you to come again for longer, heading further south.

Morocco is an intense, evocative and soul-expanding country to visit and absolutely defines the best and most challenging aspects of travel. We encourage you to watch our Morocco video playlist over on Youtube for a real ‘on the road’ look at what to expect and of course to download our free eBook so that you can buildup more knowledge and confidence with the detail we have cover there.

We really hope that this little taster does exactly what it says on the tin. Whets your appetite and gives you an eye-opening introduction to this magnificent country. Of course if you have any questions then please drop us an email at TheMotoroamers or download our free book for more information.

Experience Dubrovnik 4 ways

Experience Dubrovnik 4 ways

“If you want to see Heaven on Earth come to Dubrovnik.”

George Bernard Shaw 


As a full-time travellers since March 2016, I’ve learnt many things from my Travel teacher. One big lesson is being honest about what we experience on the road; for better or for worse. We are privileged to be able to explore the world so intimately and we have come to appreciate all faces that Travel reveals. So let me say it out loud; we are not great city fans. As introverts we find their size overwhelming, their structure claustrophobic and their presence often intimidating. We though, at the same time, accept that city life draws its own unique perspective. And this, in its own right needs to be relished alongside the things that we love most about our explorations.


So when the prospect of a visit to Croatia’s southern city Dubrovnik teetered on the horizon, we faced it with inevitability. Of course we would go, it is iconic and it is one of those places that needs to be ticked off the list, given its reputation for being one of the finest cities in the world. It certainly wasn’t though on my Bucket List, like our visit to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina had been. Yet I have learnt to face all my adventures with a sense of curiosity with which comes a humility for all things. And that is how I embrace cityscape visits these days. 

With a little research it became clear that there were a number of ways to experience Dubrovnik. I wanted to be sure that if this was a ‘one and only’ visit, to make it as 3D as possible. I realised that it would be an investment as, with most cities, a trip to their inner sanctums brings with it a price tag. We are tourists after all. There was though something about Dubrovnik that subtly gave me permission to make that investment, given all that the country and her neighbours have endured over the last thirty years. Of all places in which I am happy to spend my hard-earned cash, it would be in these western Balkan lands. 

I googled Dubrovnik’s highlights, being cautious not to feed my FOMO – Fear of Missing Out. Yet I soon concluded that it would be far richer an experience if we just trusted our instincts once we arrived. From a practical point of view though, we did make some conscious choices about how best to experience the city. My sense was that seeing it on arrival from the sea was going to be one special aspect that we couldn’t miss. Especially given I am a water baby. Then wandering within its city walls another. And surely a bird’s eye view was on the cards? 

View of Dubrovnik


Before we launch into how best to experience Dubrovnik, let me reveal a little secret; I completely fell in love with this southern belle. Of all the major cities and capitals we have visited, it will feature in my Wall of Fame alongside Ljubljana, Bratislava, Zagreb and Seville. It can proudly sit shoulder to shoulder with these other compact and characterful cities that haven’t lost their souls to commercialism.

From the minute we approached this iconic Games of Throne film set, I fell in love. There was something embracing, warm and homely about this walled settlement that subtly drew me in. After five hours exploring, I can honestly say that Dubrovnik has a place in my soul and I felt her heart-beat in every alleyway and around every corner, despite clusters of tourists compliantly following those Holiday Rep flags. With this affirmation I find it easy to now write practically about how to make the most of your visit here and share my passion for this resilient and courageous city. 


A historical context

Let me offer a brief backdrop to Dubrovnik’s canvas, by sharing a little of her historical landscape.  After all, it is not on UNESCO’s list without good reason.

Dubrovnik was founded as Rugasa in 600 AD by a group of refugees from Cavtat, just 40 minutes away by boat. From that point it grew in importance thanks to its oceanic position. It was its sea-faring trade that put the city on the map. As a medieval settlement Dubrovnik has grown from strength to strength. Despite a fire that burnt it to the ground in 1296 and the 1667 earthquake that destroyed most of its important buildings, its resilience has surged. Add to that the tragedy of the seven month Dubrovnik Siege that attacked the very heart of the old town from October 1991 until the end of June 1992. Knowing just a little of its backstory you can begin to feel the soul of the city beyond the facade that awards its oohs and ahh from its visitors. 

Now we can begin to focus on how best to introduce yourself to Dubrovnik and get the best experience from your visit here. 


1. A watery perspective

Armed with a rough plan, my camera and a steadfast protection for my introverted personality, we put Phase One of our Dubrovnik Sightseeing Strategy into action. Based at Camping Kate in Mlini, we decided, with the weather pretty calm, to head by water taxi. Our dues paid, a mere £6.80 (€7.95 or $8.37) – we excitedly boarded our vessel. 

There’s a certain thrill for me about being on the water, whether pootling on my paddleboard or speeding towards some exciting destination. The views of a place from the water are always so different from a land-based perspective. So like an eager child I sat up at the front of the taxi watching intensely, as this stunning Riviera coastline passed before my eyes. First was the haunting view of Kupari’s Ghost Town, bombed and left to rot after the Homeland War in 1991. Next the captivating azure bays, lined with pine trees and their craggy bedrock beaches still attracting sun worshipers even in October.

Within 30 minutes, the horizon offered my first glimpse of Dubrovnik’s old town, a scene I am sure must have featured in Games of Thrones more than once. As we inched ever closer towards the harbour, the city walls enveloped us. Surrounded by boats of every shape and size buzzing around the nearby islands, this city loomed large. It was fantastic to see it from the sea and imagine what it must have been like for historical sea-farers entering the city in their galleons.

Click on our Gallery below.


2. Walking through the city’s soul

Having witnessed our first glimpse of Dubrovnik intimately from the sea with no more than 20 people, we were suddenly thrown into the masses.  Like ants, suddenly there were people everywhere. Yet we had primed ourselves for it, so courageously set off. Most unlike me, without a route map, we just wandered, finding as many back streets as we could, to feel the city’s soul. 

Ladies sat with their lace and crochet, children played football like the genius that was, Pele and, being a Monday, washing hung out between the alleyways. We caught a side of Dubrovnik that is not on most people’s itineraries; watching cats lazing, dogs guarding and through the open windows, dinners simmering. What a privilege it was to see the city this way. Private, personal and every day life being played out in front of us. Behind the security of the towering walls around us, we strolled up and down the steep and shiny limestone staircases that have been climbed by hundreds of generations before us. This was a fabulous way to experience a tourist destination and, once again felt like a private tour, removed from the route of the cruise-liner visitors. Although it would be inevitable at some point that our route would bring us into the main hub of the city.

The cultural epicentre of Dubrovnik offers you some iconic views; Sponza Palace, the Cathedral, Onofrio’s Fountain and the devastated and iconic Stradun Street. It was here we were greeted with throngs of visitors and it was a matter of skilfully dodging the crowds in order to maintain our soulful edge. Which was I can tell you a bit of a challenge. Yet you cannot miss this part of the city as it holds so many memories, tells so many tales and, reborn from the embers of war, is as much a fibre of the city as its back streets. 

Click below for our Street Gallery.


3. A bird’s-eye view

There are two arial perspectives on offer in Dubrovnik. 

The first is to encircle the Dubrovnik hub by buying a £28, (€35, $35) ticket to walk the magnificent city-walls. An intrepid tootle of around 1.2 miles, which is just short of 2km, rewards you with a priceless Dubrovnik experience like no other. Whilst it is without doubt expensive, we saw it as an investment; both in ourselves as explorers and to the Croatian community. We have a philosophy that if the price we pay for something is good value and reaps a special or unique bounty, then it is not an ‘expense’. This is how we felt about touring Dubrovnik’s walls. It is such a different way to see and feel this incredible city and we loved it. Even Myles enjoyed it, despite nurturing his vertigo in some places where the tumbling cliff falls away seemingly beneath your feet. 

Being able to scan your eyes across the rooftops of this historic city, the first thing you notice is the contrast between the old and new. Destroyed buildings that have yet to be rebuilt, are clearly evidenced by their darker orange roof tiles and pallid facias. Whilst the newly loved properties and historic real estate have a vibrant makeover in both the clean, cream brickwork and the iconic orange roofs. This is a stark reminder that whilst the battle is won and independence secured, the war still leaves scars for all to see.

Your 360º experience of Dubrovnik old town, the coastline and the islands will leave an indelible mark on your heart with complementary colours of rich golden hews, sparking blue seas and a mountain backdrop that holds it all together in a seamless canvas of delight. Looking down at the city you can see figures scurrying along the cobbled streets like something out of a Lowry painting. The enormity of Dubrovnik’s scaling steps hits you as you see them from a whole new aspect where puffing people steadily climb their unforgiving ascension. Then in the blink of an eye the chimney pots shape the horizon as a replica Schooner sails into the iconic port.

Life above Dubrovnik’s beating heart, is truly a magical and addictive experience and well worth the entrance fee. 

Click on our Gallery below.


4. The view from heaven

The second arial view-point you can take is in the Cable Car. You can find this just five minutes walk outside the main Ploče Gate on the main road. The pods run regularly, taking you up 778m up to the gods for what must be a stunning view on a good weather day. There is a restaurant up at the top, which on good authority is meant to be excellent. We decided not to take the Cable Car as with the investment of Water Taxis, buses, the walls and lunch, we thought that the cost was one step too far. After a good four hours in the city, to adding this to our one day visit would have been been too overwhelming. If you are in the city for longer than a day, then you could add it to your second day itinerary for sure. 


The Motoroamers’ Top tips for Dubrovnik

  • Plan your visit in one of three time periods; 1. Go early whilst the cruise-liners are eating breakfast. 2. Go around lunchtime as most cruise goers want to return to the ship for their all-inclusive lunch. Or 3. Go after 3pm when many of the cruise boats will be planning to set sail for their next destination.
  • If you have budget constraints, choose either the Cable Car or the Walls. They are both the same price and will give you an arial view. We would recommend the walls over the Cable Car, if only because the weather can turn quickly and your view could be hampered by clouds or even worse cancelled because of an incoming Bora Bora wind (depending on the season). Of the two we chose to do the walls which gave us a great perspective. I know the views are incredible from the Cable Car, although if you had to choose, then the walls would win every time for me. It has an intimacy that just let me feeling so connected to the city. 
  • If you have mobility issues then Dubrovnik is not very user-friendly given all the steps. And the walls are also not great if you suffer from vertigo or need a walking aid, as you have to climb steps to reach the wall walk. The Red Cross do offer some support if you need a walking aid and access to their details can be found here.
  • Dogs in Dubrovnik. We did see pets both on the Water Taxi and in the city. Our only thoughts would be to watch the crowds and your low-to-the-ground pooch and of course, keep a watchful eye over their deposits.
  • Eating in Dubrovnik. Like any city, there are plenty of eating options with an extensive option of styles catered for. You are though, a captive market, so the prices are not cheap. We spent £34 (€40) on a pizza, beer, water and a salad. So not out of the question budget-wise, depending on your constraints, you just need to shop around. Restaurants will be vying for your business so don’t feel obliged to eat if you are only looking at the menu.
  • There are lots of accommodation options. If like us you are with your camper, then there are a few options. You can stay at Camping Bambo in Slano which is 21 miles (36km) north of Dubrovnik to which you could catch the bus. Alternatively Camping Kate at Milni, which is where we stayed, open from April to the end of October allows easy access to the city. You have the water taxi and the number 10 bus or both if you fancy taking the route we did. Otherwise there are plenty of hotels, AirB&B’s and guest houses in the area so you really are spoilt for choice.
  • If you  are staying around Dubrovnik for a couple of days, then it is worth considering the investment in the Dubrovnik PassIt entitles you to up to 50% discounts on many Dubrovnik attractions and public transport. You can buy either a one, three or seven day pass which is an investment of between €35 and €55 depending on the duration. With the discounts you receive, the card will have paid for itself. We found out about this too late, although it is worthy of passing on to you. 


Check out our YouTube video where we capture the best bits from our short visit to this remarkable city.  Click on the image below. 



Whichever of the four perspectives you choose to take of Dubrovnik, you will be spoilt with its quiet charm, its low-key vibe and its deeply entrenched history. This is so much more than a city Tick List. This is a full on adventure that takes you into the past whilst leaving your present changed by the soul of this beautiful, resurgent city.


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Visiting Plitvice Lakes in your Motorhome

Visiting Plitvice Lakes in your Motorhome

Your Guide to Visiting Plitvice Lakes, Croatia

Waking up on the day of our visit to Croatia’s iconic Plitvice Lakes, filled me with tingles. That excitement that flows through your veins when you’re about to embark something new. At last it was our turn to explore this magnificent gallery presented by Mother Nature. 

Whilst I could just regale you of tales from our sensory exploration, I thought it might also be helpful to explain how to make the most of your visit here.  I reflect back at my pre-visit research and the whole mind-blowing options available to us and this drives me to do a more practical blog. So that is our plan with this little ditty. We will entice you, of course with our autumnal tour, although more importantly we will share how to best navigate this Croatia National Park.

1. What is Plitvice?

Plitvice is a natural masterpiece that has required no intervention from man for its evolving landscape. Its name derives from the phenomenon created by nature’s formation of shallow basins – those pools are called plitvak in Croatian. 

Founded as a National Park in 1949, the world-famous Plitvice Lakes is the largest and one of the oldest in the country. It was awarded with the UNESCO accolade in 1979. The Park is an open air natural history museum, that tells you a story about yesterday and tomorrow with each passing season. The water course that runs through the Park trickles, gushes and cascades over 30,000 hectares until it reaches the river Korana, and eventually into the Black Sea. 

Plitvice, like much of Croatia is formed as part of a Karst system of lakes, waterfalls and caves that are all interconnected. The interaction between the air, water and plants constantly reshapes this environment. New layers of tufa sediment build up that alters water’s flow. With its 16 lakes and around 90 waterfalls, this iconic destination is so much more than a park. It is a sensory experience that transports you away from the world’s craziness.

For the eyes you have a spectrum of blues to dazzle you. There is azure, topaz, emerald and mint-tea green to name just a few. And it is thanks to the algae that thrive in this protected habitat, that we have such a kaleidoscope of colour. 

To the ears, an orchestral movement that sometimes hums, sometimes gushes and other times it simply bellows like a baritone.  The water’s course sings in chords that provide a constant background percussion. And then there’s the silence, which amidst the water’s sonnet, is immense, punctured only by the merest whispering of the reeds. In autumn, beneath your feet, the crunch of russet beech leaves bring out the child in you as you kick your way through the orange carpet. 

It is though the unspoken magic that makes Plitvice so intoxicating. The essence of water’s time-honoured tradition that somehow touches your soul. Walking through this fairyland moves you as nature permits you to share an intimacy with its lakes. Each corner gives you a new vista. Each lake a different personality. So you are never bored, just infatuated with the soul of this enchanting piece of natural beauty. 




2. How to best experience Plitvice Lakes


Now this is where you might be bamboozled by a ton of information as you trawl through the internet. So I am going to share our on-the-ground experiences, that I hope might help make your visit easier.


2.1 There are Two Entrances

Entrance 1 is the furthest north and gives you access to the four Lower Lakes.

Entrance 2 is the southern entrance and gives you access to the Upper Lakes. Do not worry about which you will choose right now as that will be driven by a number of factors, which I will discuss shortly.


The image below is a summary of the walks available at each of the entrances which should set the scene for the walk descriptions below. 



2.2 Eight Walking Routes

There are plenty of walking options that will suit your time and fitness.  I will describe each one in a bit more detail, each with their own map to show you how it looks in reality. Click the galley to the right for a map of each individual walk. 

Entrance 1 – is located at the northern end of the Park and all routes from here are signposted in Green. Your routes will take you up hill with all the waterfalls in front of you, which makes for a more pleasant experience.

Route A – this is the shortest route that takes in just the Veliki Slap waterfall – the largest in Croatia. Then it routes back on the upper path to the car park at Entrance 1. Around 2 miles in length (3.5km).

Route B – This is the next shortest option. It takes you to Veliki Slap and then onto the long boat across the river. Then you hop on the short boat which takes you back to the main route back to the Car Park at Entrance 1. Here you can take the Panorama Train or walk as you wish. This is 2.5 miles long (4km).

Route C – This is a long walk that encompasses both the Lower and Upper Lakes. It accesses both the long boat trip and the Panorama train. This is around 4.8 miles in duration (8km).

Route K1 – This route takes in both the Lower and Upper Lakes although doesn’t take any of the free transportation. So you walk around the lake that the free boat crosses. This is a long one at around 10 miles (18.3km)


Entrance 2 – is located at the southern end of the park and you walk downhill with the waterfalls behind you. The routes from this entrance are colour coded in Orange. All the routes accessed from this entrance are slightly longer than from Entrance 1. Click the galley to the right for a map of each individual walk. 

Route E – Takes you from Entrance 2 to the Upper Lakes with the short boat trip and the Panorama train – 3 miles long (5.1km)

Route F – The shortest of the Entrance 2 routes. You head north towards Entrance 1 where you then walk down to Veilki Slap and back uphill to the long boat trip, pick up the short boat trip and then returning to your Entrance 2 parking.  2.8 miles long, (4.6km)

Route H is the same route as Route C, you just head downhill towards Entrance 1 and then work your way around to the boat, the Upper Lakes and then the Panorama train back to Entrance 2.  This route is 5.4 miles duration (8.9km).

Route K2 – This is identical to Route K1, you are just starting from Entrance 2 and heading your way downhill towards Entrance 1 and following the route from there. This is around 6.5 miles (18.3km).


3. Walking Route Pointers

Things worthy of note with these Routes:


  • The long boat trip across the Kozjak Lake will take 30 minutes, so you get a good rest. They run every 10-15 minutes. If you miss one boat, the next will be along very quickly. There are refreshment huts and toilets at the waiting area. This crossing is a one way trip. So you will only ever cross it having completed the Lower Lake walks.
  • The Panorama Train runs frequently from each of the 3 Stations (ST1, 2 and 3) available to you. So you are never waiting long. If you need to conserve energy we do suggest that you take the trains to save energy. Bear in mind that the final Station closest to Entrance 1 (ST1) still requires a half a mile walk back to the car park. The boat and train are all included in the price.
  • Irrespective of which Entrance you choose, you will still need to pay for your parking. If you are arriving in your motorhome then it is 100 Kuna for the day.  A scooter is free of charge and by car is 8-10 Kuna per hour depending on the season.
  • During winter, Entrance 2 is shut, so from November- March you will only be able to park at Entrance 1.
  • There is a bird’s-eye view of the lakes from what they call The Cliff.  Although the path up to it from the Veliki Slap waterfall is currently closed (@November 2022). So you would need to take your vehicle to it. We decided after our Panorama Walk (or the train if you catch it) we had a sufficient fill of views. Plus in autumn the sun’s position makes for tricky photography. 



4. What will it cost?

Here are the all important fees that you need to know before making your trip.


4.1 The Entrance cost 

This will depend on the month you travel. This is what you can expect to pay, although please check with the official Park site to get up to date information at the time of your trip. Click here to buy your tickets online. OR you can purchase at the Ticket Kiosk at Entrance 1 and 2 (and the auxiliary entrance Flora close to Entrance 2).

Nov-March – the LOW SEASON option 80 Kuna per person (don’t forget that during the winter season the Upper Lake section is shut as is Entrance 2)

April/May and Oct – the SHOULDER SEASON price option 180 Kuna per person

June, July, August and September – the HIGH SEASON price 300 Kuna per person. You can pay a reduced rate of 200 Kuna per person if you arrive at 4.00pm during June/July/August or 3.00pm September.

For conversion rates for your currency, you might want to use XE.com 

Please remember that our entrance fees help with the Park’s maintenance. The price includes the boat and train ride although excludes refreshments and the Car Park which are all additional charges. 


4.2 Parking Charges

These also vary depending upon the type of vehicle you bring. 

  • If you travel by Shuttle Bus offered by your campsite, please check with them for their current prices.
  • If you decide to cycle in, there are limited option for securely locking your bikes, we found, although you are not charged.
  • If you travel in by Scooter there is no charge for parking.
  • A car is charged an hour rate that varies from 8-10 Kuna per hour depending on the time of the year.
  • If you visit in your motorhome you pay between 80-100 Kuna for the whole day irrespective of the number of hours you stay. 


For up to date pricing information for your visit we suggest you go to the Plitvice Park website which you can find here. 




5. Our Top Tips and Recommendations

1. Start at Entrance 1 and go up hill to get the best waterfall views.

As a photographer, light and easy access to my subject is really important. So when I came across§ advice about taking Route C so that all the waterfalls in front of me, it made total sense. Go uphill for the best view.

2. Go for the earliest time slot available.

In high season the Park opens at 7.00am. Whilst that sounds ridiculously early, to avoid the crowds and to have the boardwalks to yourself, it makes good sense. In the low season from November to May the Park is open from 8am and our advice is the same. Choose the first slot. 

3. Take Route C if you only have one day.

If you are only visiting for the day, we recommend doing Route C.  Make the most of the rest areas, the 30 minute boat ride and the full length Panorama Train to manage your energy. This makes the trip much more doable and accessible over 4-5 hours.


4. Visit in May/early June or mid October/November.

You may not have the luxury of specifying when you visit although if you do, then we would recommend avoiding summertime. The crowds will be intense with many coaches arriving from 10.30am onwards. The Park gets around 1 million visitors during the high season so this could impact on your enjoyment, particularly if you have a dog. So a springtime or autumn visit will award you with less crowds and a more self-paced experience. This was certainly how we felt at Krka National Park when we visited in mid-September. Of course we are not ruling out winter as an option; the Park can be affected by bad weather given its mountain location. Only the Lower Lakes are open during the winter. The Upper Lakes reopen when the weather conditions are safe enough to do so. We had 23º on our visit on 1 November although this is generally seen as being unusual for the time of year.

5. Check weather apps before booking.

The here and now is the only real accurate weather prediction. Although we recommend checking a weather apps like ventusky.com, to get a flavour of the conditions for your visit. Whilst people have told us that their visit in inclement weather was actually beautiful, clear and sunny must be a preference. So if you have the flexibility, then check the forecast before booking your on-line tickets. Of course you could also leave purchasing tickets until the day, if you have that level of flexibility.

6. Bringing children and pets

As non parents nor currently dog owners, we tread carefully with this topic. Yet having experienced the Park for ourselves, our observations may help.

We saw a number of parents with babies and younger children, some of which started out the same time of day as us. The children were initially excited, although that was soon replaced by grumpy tiredness. Given that the boardwalks are right on the edge of the lakes, constant supervision is required unless they are significantly older. We also saw a family with a buggy although with the rough boardwalks having steps and oftentimes rocky pathways through the forests, it is not an ideal place for pushchairs of any description. They were even struggling to get the pram off the Panorama Train.

In terms of dogs, the Park is definitely dog friendly as long as they are permanently on a lead. Dogs are permitted on both the boat and the train and there seems to be no additional cost for dog entry.


7. What to do if you have mobility issues or are concerned about your fitness.

If you think that Route C is too much in one day, then we would recommend booking a Two Day Pass. Not only do you get a discounted Day 2 pass, you are also able to do both lakes justice without tiring yourself out.

We recommend doing Entrance 1 – Route B on Day 1. Have the afternoon to rest at your hotel or campsite. Then on Day 2 park at Entrance 2 and do Route E, again with the afternoon to rest. Then you see all the aspects of the Park at a leisurely pace without pushing your body to its limits.

If you have mobility issues then your options are, sadly, limited. The Park is not geared up to wheelchairs, walking aids or mobility scooters. There are though two ways of getting a glimpse of the Park. Firstly you could drive around to ‘The Cliff’ and the Postcard Viewing point. You can drive up here and whilst Google Maps doesn’t show much parking, it could be an option. Alternatively you could park opposite Entrance 1 and get a wheelchair to the Veliki Slap waterfall viewing point. That is pretty much all that is on offer. Neither the train nor the boats are really geared up for any disability. This is something that the Park need to address at some point. On presentation of a valid Disability Card, you will pay 50% of the entrance ticket.

Our recommendation is rather than come all the way to Plitvice, instead visit Krka National Park, which is much more oriented for disabled or low mobility visitors. 

8. Download the Plitvice App and buy tickets on-line

Whilst the App does need some further development, it gives you a basic summary of the walks and a route maps. So it did serve a purpose and it is free to download. You cannot, at the moment, order you tickets through the App nor does it have a comprehensive or complete list of accommodation or campsites. 

To save queuing up at the Ticket Office, we suggest that you book using the Park’s official website.  It is easy to co-ordinate and you get an email, which has your tickets attached. The Park wardens then scan your ticket at whichever entrance you choose to start from.

9. Be prepared; food, water and layers

We recommend taking your own packed lunch and refreshments with you. There are four ‘stations’ where you can get refreshments, although they may not suit your needs, timeframes or budget.  Plus in high season the food sellers will be busy. So a packed lunch is so much easier. We also recommend dressing appropriately. Whilst it may seem an obvious comment, we say it compassionately. In November despite a forecast of 23º, getting there at 8.00am meant that the sun was very low until 9.30am, so we were walking in shade for a while. Layers were needed until the air warmed up with the sun’s eventual presence. Sturdy shoes are also recommended as the boardwalks are not flat nor even. The paths up through the wooded section of the park are also rocky so sturdy foot-wear is essential, especially for the longer walks.

10. At the Upper Lakes’ station take the Panorama Train

After walking for four hours, our Route C took us to the Upper Lakes’ Station where there were toilets and refreshments. This is where the Panorama Train takes you down to Entrance 2 or within 1/2 mile walking distance of Entrance 1. We decided to walk rather than take the train and whilst it was pretty, it added another 2 miles to our journey. We did eventually pick up the Train at the ST2 by Entrance 2 although hadn’t realised that we still had the 1/2 mile walk back to the car park. So we would definitely recommend the train so save your energy and blisters. 



6. Where best to travel from

You have a number of options for arriving at Plitvice depending upon the trip you are taking:


  • Split is the furthest destination to Plitvice at 150 miles (240km) and will take 2 days, if travelling by motorhome. We had an overnight stop at historic Knin en route. 
  • From Croatia’s capital Zagreb, Plitvice is around 80miles (130km). 
  • From Bihać in Bosnia is just 6 miles (10km) from the Border. (If you would like to explore more of Bosnia and Herzegovina then check this out our free to download eBook here).
  • From Zadar 70 miles (120km)
  • And the shortest route from within Croatia at 37miles (62km) is from the gorgeous Roman town of Senj, which could potentially be a day trip.



7. Where to stay

Whether travelling by motorhome, by car or public transport, there are plenty of accommodation options within and on the outside of the National Park. The Park, over the years, has brought wealth to the region and so there are plenty of options to satisfy all our needs. For a list of Hotels, B&B and apartments, I found this blog, which might be a helpful reference point. 

For camping options there are a number of varied sizes of Park run sites, smaller and independent sites and Autocamps. Please note, this is a National Park, so no wild camping is tolerated at any time of the year and you are not permitted to stay in the car parks. So you must find a campsite option. 

We stayed at Camping Plitvice, which is the nearest and most convenient campsite with mobile homes and plenty of pitches. Whilst it is just 3miles (5km) away from Entrance 1 if you are thinking of cycling, it is an uphill trek all the way, so don’t tire yourself out before you’ve even started on your walking route. During the season most larger campsites run a Shuttle Bus which is an additional cost on top of the pitch. On request we found that our campsite’s Shuttle ended up being more expensive than parking the motorhome for the day. So we paid the 100 Kuna for parking and thought that this was reasonable for the whole day.

Campsite prices will vary depending upon the time of year, of course. From September to July the ACSI discount card should be in operation in a number of campsites. We paid €20 per night. Although please bear in mind that from end of October most campsites shut for the winter. Camping Plitvice says on the Search for Sites portal that it is open all year yet it was due to shut on 1 November. We managed to negotiate them staying open to accommodate our 2 night stay and because of the warm weather they agreed. 

Plitvice Holiday Resort, when I spoke to them said that they would stay open until the weather hit 0º. So camping in the late autumn early winter is a bit of a hit and miss affair. There is a free Camping Aire at Slunj which is just 30 minutes up the road. So if your budget is tight, then this is a good option that just requires you getting up a bit earlier to do the drive into the Park. 



8. Closing thoughts

Plitvice is a magnificent destination for your Croatian Road-Trip and is well worth the journey to reach it. The magnetism of the water’s movement through the lakes is mesmerising and irrespective of the time of year, your senses will be utterly bombarded. Out of season is a must if you want to really appreciate the soul of the Park rather than being trampled by other people’s soles. Although we accept that that might not be an option for you. 

And if you do go, don’t miss a near-by unique site at Rastoke. A 17th century and delightful folk village, known as Little Plitvice because of its harnessing of the river’s waterfall power, Rastoke is definitely worthy of a stop for the night. We stayed at an official aire that was free of charge to stop at. You can find the details here.

We adored our time in Plitvice and I would love, in truth to see it in winter and spring. Perhaps even slightly early in autumn to get a true sense of the forest colours. The Park is iconic, our visit was epic and our memories deeply embedded into our veins. This is one visit that we will not forget in a hurry. We hope you enjoy your visit as much and feel free to ask any questions in the comments below. 


Check out our video tour of Plitvice by clicking the image below.


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Touring Bosnia by Motorhome

Touring Bosnia by Motorhome

A Guide to Bosnia by Motorhome


With a three month autumn tour of Croatia pre-Schengen 2023, we had our sights on Bosnia and Herzegovina at some point during our trip. This was, in part because it was so close it would have been mad not to. We also wanted to prolong our Croatian stay and thereby our Schengen Shuffle allowance by dipping into a country not in the gang. A double whammy opportunity. So sat in Omiš after a wonderful family week we decided, now was the time.

In this brief guide, we want to share what we experienced both in the lead up to crossing the border, our entry experience and some of our flavours from what was a ‘mini tour’ of this much unknown country. Our hope is that it will give you the inspiration to dip your intrepid toes into BiH waters and put fear and uncertainty behind you. 

The Lead Up 

We waved goodbye to mum and Bob who were heading back to Dubrovnik via Herzegovina’s Mostar region, and we began deliberating our next steps. Mostar is one of BiH’s hottest tourist destinations and has been on my bucket list for ages. Yet my sights had been so focused on arriving in Omiš in time for Bob’s Birthday celebrations, that I hadn’t even looked beyond this point.  So thanks to their trip, we were inspired to put our BiH intentions into action. With Omiš just 2 hours from Mostar the plan was hatched. 

With the help of Google, a few phones calls and at bit of route-mapping, within 24hrs we were good to go. The blogs I read about BiH excited me, so we knew this mini tour was so much more than Mostar.  I love travel’s variety; some days simply feel normal when you work, clean the van, shop and all those other mundane tasks. There are others when you do something special with family and friends who share your travel experiences with you. And then there are times when you do something that stretches you out of your comfort zone inducing what I call my ‘excityscared’ emotions; that fusion of anticipation, excitement and nervousness. Such a tumultuous mixture of feelings that are like a kaleidoscope of butterflies doing an olympic workout. Bosnia and Herzegovina represented that for me.

I’ll be honest, I know so little about Bosnia and Herzegovina that I had concerns about its safety; after all we wanted to do more than just Mostar. Like so many, the media plays a huge role in shaping our perceptions. After the war in the early 90’s, Sarajevo’s destruction, the devastation across this country and its neighbours, those memories stay with you. Yet travel always my educator and guide, continually shows me the truth behind a country’s culture and history, not what the media choose to show you.  It didn’t take long for me to move beyond my fears and look to the awaiting adventure just a mere 33 miles away. 


Our Top 10 Planning Checklist for Bosnia & Herzegovina

Once Bosnia and Herzegovina was on the agenda, I initiated a checklist of essentials that ensured we had the necessaries to be safe and have a memorable trip. We wanted to share this with you as you consider whether Bosnia could be on your road-trip list.


1. Covid entry requirements

It looks like we are through the worst of the pandemic with most countries having now lifted their entry requirements. Although after such an intensive period, it leaves you hyper-sensitive about travel. So I did a quick check to investigate if there were any restrictions or vaccination proof requirements. At the time of writing all restrictions are now lifted.


When you plan your trip, just check in with this website or your country’s own Government website to assess the latest information about Covid or any other topical issues that might affect your trip to the country. 


2. Vehicle Insurance 

There was some debate on our Motoroamers’ Chat Room about whether our UK insurance would cover Bosnia and Herzegovina. We are with Comfort and I had a sneaky suspicion they didn’t cover the country and I struggled to find any information to give me peace of mind. So I started researching buying insurance at the border. There was nothing definitive about where we could buy it and how much it would cost. 

So I put a quick call into Comfort where they confirmed that we were in fact covered and that we have breakdown cover there too. Happy days. That was one big tick off my list. They just recommended that we print our on-line documentation so that we had everything to hand if scrutinised by Border Control. The campsite helped us with this, so that was a breeze. 


Check your insurance policy for country exclusions and if in any doubt speak to your insurers to get up to date information. If you don’t already, ensure you have a printed copy of your documentation and Green Card just in case. My research suggested that many of the main tourist borders will specifically ask for your paperwork. And the official line is that online copies that you may have downloaded to save paper, is NOT sufficient. 

If your insurers don’t cover Bosnia, then you will need to get third party cover at the border. Bear in mind that not all borders are tourist crossings so may have nothing other than a Control Booth. We crossed at Aržano and it is not classed as a main Border so no insurance purchase looked to be available here. 

This interactive map might be helpful to find the borders around Bosnia. 


3. Travel Insurance – Health Cover

Of course travel insurance is an important companion and whilst we have our GHIC that offers basic cover  that for many countries may well be sufficient, for others, you may want some extra protection. With our exit from Europe, some countries might have travel insurance as an entry requirement. Although this hasn’t been the case for us in the last two years, other countries might have a different policy.  So we secured health cover through True Traveller, who we used for our trip to Morocco in 2020. This can be done on line or over the phone in an instant. 


If you are already travelling and have not purchased a UK-based policy, then you can use companies like True Traveller, Big Cat or World Nomads who will give you cover whilst away from your home country, subject meeting certain criteria. True Traveller covered us for 7 days for £66. For additional information, here is the UK Government’s website that shows what is covered under the reciprocal health agreement. 


4. Internet and International Roaming Charges

Whilst this wasn’t formally on my list – it should have been and I could have saved myself £50. Whilst I knew our Spanish Lobster card wouldn’t cover Bosnia, I foolishly thought we could use our 02 travel package. Wrong!  Travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina will initiate International Roaming Charges. It isn’t until you have no internet that you realise how much you rely on it. I couldn’t check Park4Night, use my Google Maps for navigation, get Google Translate or download my Bosnian maps on Maps.me. (Another school-girl error). So it is worth getting this sorted the minute you arrive.

Have no fear, if Bosnia and Herzegovina is not included in your allowance, then immediately search out a garage, convenience store, newsstand, post office or a cafe and ask for a Pre-paid SIM card. We bought a 20GB card for 7 days that we popped into our MIFI. It cost 20 BAM – £9. Given we work on-line, use a lot of data for our blogging and Myles’ investments, we simply bought a second card for 15GB for 10 days, so we could feel at ease about the internet situation. 


Check with your phone supplier to see if Bosnia and Herzegovina is covered. If not you will get a text from them saying that you will be charged for minutes of calls, text and data. Ours was £7.20 per MG up to 50MG capped at £51.50. I continued to use my internet to check where we could buy a SIM and in just 30 mins I had reached my cap! SO BEWARE.


5. Navigational Maps

As with our recommendations for Morocco, we suggest checking your membership with Park4Night is up to date to use their off-line option. This will save important data. If you have maps.me remember to download Bosnia and Herzegovina maps whilst you have ‘free and cheap’ internet. I didn’t and needed to wait until we had our SIM card to download my maps, which of course also used a chunk of my allowance up! Lesson learnt. 


6. Overnight Parking Options 

I did a lot of research on where we could stay and wild camping rules. I couldn’t find anything definitive from the Bosnia and Herzegovina Government although it seems that there are no laws prohibiting going off-grid. Of course, the normal rules must apply. Be respectful, be tidy and be discreet. No one should ever know we had been there. 

There are two big issues going off-grid in BiH; the first is the risk of land-mines from the war. So never go anywhere where the land hasn’t been tended to or that doesn’t have asphalt roads to them. There are signs warning of mines, so always take heed, however beautiful the location may be. The second challenge is that many reviews we read suggested that guys would turn up in the evening asking for payment on a seemingly free spot. They may not always be official parking attendants, so be mindful of this during the high season. 

There are not many sites on SearchforSites, whilst Park4Night is prolific with all camping options. Just read the reviews carefully and make sure that someone has stayed at your desired spot recently without issue. However, if you are going to a spot that has no reviews at all, then just google camping on Google Maps and see what comes up. We found some wonderful campsites this way in both Poland, Bulgaria and Romania that weren’t on any portals. You’ll always find somewhere. If you are really desperate, I would also visit hotels, restaurants or monasteries and see if they are willing for you to stay on their land overnight in return for a donation or a meal. ACSI also have some campsites on their books – check out their link although bear in mind that a campsite’s own rates are likely to be cheaper than the ACSI rate. 


7. Preparation for the Border Crossing

Whichever crossing you choose to take, be ready with your paperwork in case you’re asked for it. Arm yourself with your V5, passports, travel insurance documentation and motor insurance paperwork. We were only asked for our passports. Main tourist borders do check paperwork more thoroughly so being prepared will reduce stress and time.

At our crossing we first encountered the Croatian Border. Thinking this was the Bosnian side, I asked to be stamped which he didn’t do automatically. Then half a mile further on was the Bosnian Control and again all he wanted was passports; and he did stamp. So we now have ourselves a bit more time for our stay in Croatia, given we are only allowed 90 days under their Visa rules. Once they join Schengen in Jan 2023, then a trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina will help you Schengen Shuffle prolong your travel time. Just make sure you are stamped to record you leaving and re-entering Croatia. 


8. Language Barriers

Before entering any new country, I always have a handful of basic phrases under my belt. I think it is so important to at least try. So many don’t and with Google Translate it is very easy. Even if your pronunciation isn’t great, it will be appreciated. Bosnia is almost identical to Croatian, so here are some go-phrases to have up your sleeve. 

  • Hello (literally Good Day)  – Dobar dan (pronounced dobradan) 
  • Do you speak English  – Govoriš (š is a sh) li engleski
  • Can I – Mogu li

          – buy – Kupiti
          – have – Dobiti
          – stay – Ostati
          – pay – Platiti

  • Night – Noć
  • Here – Ovdje
  • Please – Molim
  • Thanks – Hvala  (Puno ti hvala is thank you very much)
  • Bye – Dovidenja (pronounced Dovigenya)
  • Please – molim

9. Money and Currency

With the deftness of a flying Swift I found my answer to Bosnian currency; it is called BAM or Bosnian Mark or KM. My research told me though that they will take Euros – although after searching the depths of my purse unveiled €10 plus €9 in coins, which they are not fans of. Otherwise all I had was Croatian Kuna. And many establishments especially campsites don’t take credit card. So we checked with the Money Exchange to see if we could buy BAM or Euros – the answers to which were a firm negative. So we decided that if we had to, we would resort to using my Tescos Credit Card – not ideal because of the exchange rate, although needs might must right?

Although have no fear – Bosnian establishments will take whatever you have, after all, they say, ‘This is Bosnia!’ So when we urgently needed a SIM card, they were happy to take our Kuna. I’m sure the rate wasn’t in our favour, although at least we could buy what we needed before getting to a cash point.  Part of my planning was to check out the nearest ATM’s to our border crossing. Be aware though that there will be a lot of BANKOMAT cash points and they charge £5 for each withdrawal. Either go to a private bank where they will only charge you the standard rate of £3.95 or google ZiraatBank locations; they are the only bank in Bosnia that do not charge for withdrawals.

At the time of writing the currency exchange with sterling is 1BAM = 0.45p, so roughly halve the BAM price and you will know what you are paying. We also have XE.com as a back up exchange calculator, which can make life easier. 

10. Inform family of your travel intentions

It might sound an odd item for the checklist. Yet if your plans are last minute, like us, then letting loved ones know your travel intentions will ease anxiety. If you suddenly go out of communication it can be stressful for everyone. So I dropped mum a message to say that if we weren’t in touch for a while, not to worry. Telling her where we were going in case of a lack of internet meant, she could be restful in the knowledge we hadn’t dropped off the face of the earth. 

What is Bosnia like?

In Part 2 of this blog, we will tell you more about our mini road-trip around Bosnia and Herzegovina. Although for now, here is a little taster of what we experienced.

The road up from Omiš was stunningly beautiful and our entire 42 miles following the Cetina Gorge guided us on a rollercoaster ride through the mountains. It took us about 90 minutes to arrive at our overnight stop at a beach beside a lake. What a great start that was.

As with most country borders, the cultures and landscape don’t tend to change in a flash; they mostly morph subtly and graciously. So for a while, Bosnia and Herzegovina feels as if you are still in Croatia. And then the reality hits you as you see political propaganda painted on walls and the ever-present bullet holes. These are a stark reminder of what has past, in our life-time. That is a sobering moment. Silence echoed around our van as we began to reflect on all that we remember from the news reels back in the day.  And then the landscape, for a moment soothes your soul as you wind around endless mountains, forests and plateau farmlands. Then the war memories are back, as in each village you see fresh graves from both the Muslims and Christians. The humbling moments are never far from mind.  And this makes Bosnia such an endearing destination and rich in its culture. Whilst a tragic moment in their history, it was their reality. As a visitor experiencing how this might have been for them, feels really important. 

Check out our gallery below.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is though a country that is rebuilding, with hearts and minds. We are greeted with intrigue as we drive through isolated mountain villages. We are not the sight most rural communities are used to seeing. And in truth we saw only a handful other vans ourselves whilst we were here. Soon enough more will arrive although for now, we are looked upon with a strange curiosity.

Camping here is easy and good quality. The local’s and campsite owners’ hospitality is second to none. We were treated to warmth, gifts and free drinks when we arrived at campsites. Like with Croatia, Auto Camps are popping up all over the place giving us a choice over where to stay. We paid between €10-15 per night all inclusive often with free WIFI too, although always very strong. Shower facilities were decent enough and whilst we could have gone more off-grid than we did, it felt important to put money into a community that needs our support.

The landscape is difficult to describe with a profound enough adjective. I had no idea that BiH was so utterly beautiful. It has a raw and untouched feel about it and for miles all you see are mountains, gorges, topaz blue rivers and forest.  So often we had to pinch ourselves and say, ‘We’re in Bosnia’.

The roads are generally good. There is a lot of new infrastructure connecting communities and much of the funding comes from the EU.  Some of the towns were quite industrial and scruffy with square, brick facia houses that look unfinished. Although what the new towns lack in character, the old medieval towns and landscape seriously make up for.  As with many Balkan countries, aside of Croatia, there is an animal welfare issue. We saw stray dogs, some with ear-tags, roaming the roads often in pairs, yet they all looked well nourished. So someone is looking after them, although they are not in homes being loved.  And sadly like Morocco, rubbish is a huge problem in Bosnia, which is such a shame. 

One of the many things that impressed us was that almost around every corner was a petrol station and virtually every one sold LPG. So you never need to worry about filling up. At the time of writing their Dizel was priced 3.16KM – £1.42  and LPG was 1.56KM – 0.70p.  And there are plentiful supermarkets around which are on a par with Croatia; so cheaper than western Europe for sure. Bingo is a huge chain of shop offering absolutely everything you can think of – other brands are of course available. Every town seems to have a market; we’re not sure if they’re daily although they sell all you need and of course you are putting money straight into the hands of the entrepreneurs. 

Touring Bosnia and Herzegovina in our motorhome has been a beautiful surprise and a sublime experience that has anchored itself deep within me. It has certainly left us both wanting more. We can’t recommend Bosnia enough. It is safe. It is beautiful. And it is full of history that will shock and humble you. And with Croatia now joining Schengen, BiH is going to be a winner in the Schengen Shuffle race for our travel attention. Bosnia, we are coming!

Check out our gallery below.


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10 Tips for Navigating our Schengen Sentence

10 Tips for Navigating our Schengen Sentence

At Motoroaming HQ we are finally coming to the end of our first official Schengen Sentence. After 84 days in Europe through the winter 2021/22, we returned to the UK to tread water until we were able to step back into the Zone. The period from 21st February until the end of May has taught us so much about how navigate this ‘sentence’ (said of course tongue in cheek). Such have been our revelations during this time that we wanted to share our lessons about how to make the most of this period, based on our experiences.

Irrespective of your views of Brexit, we have it, fair and square; now we must navigate it positively in a way that meets all our travel needs and personal requirements. There’s no doubting for those of us who have been used to roaming freely across Europe, navigating the Schengen has had an impact on all our travels. 

As with all aspects of life, how we deal with our challenges is driven by the mindset we adopt when managing these changes. We can moan all we like, although these new rules are here to stay and so if we ‘bend with the wind’ we can learn a new way of travelling that creates a ‘new normal’. 

We have talked to so many people over the last six months and there’s no doubting that the prospect of coming back to the UK for long periods is faced with a dose of dread. As a result we have found many like-minded souls trying to string out their stay in Europe for as long as possible. Often we saw people choosing to bomb it back to the nearest ferry to maximise their time, some having issues with breakdowns that took them to the edge of their allowance, placing all manner of stress on their lives. 

It’s worth adding at this point that we all adopt our own strategies for making the most of our travel time, especially if we are full-time; so there is no judgement being made here. We are, after all, all doing our best with what we have available to us. There is no right or wrong way – just our own way.

As I reflect back to our return in February, I remember we stepped upon our English shores with heavy hearts. We knew that, for at least the next 90 days, we would need to manage our time in the UK otherwise it could feel as long as a winter’s night. We knew instantly that exploring ways to make this period productive and deal with our itchy feet would be a really constructive conversation to have. So having now experienced our first Schengen Sentence, we wanted to share our thoughts, reflections and tips, given we are all in the same boat. 

Scoobie Gamle Strynefjellvagen

10 Tips for Navigating our Schengen Sentence 

1. Hold back some of your 90 days 

When we started talking about our approach to the Schengen Shuffle, we decided our strategy would be not to use all our 90 days.  We wanted to have a buffer to make allowance for any unexpected events. So we choose to save some days in case we break down (which we have a tendency to do) or we needed to get back in hurry. And bizarrely this strategy has really helped us navigate our Schengen Sentence, albeit by default.

This year we ended up having 6 days spare from our winter trip. This enabled us to use these days for a surprise visit to Paris for my mum’s 80th Birthday. Whilst we considered ourselves lucky to have had these extra days, in fact it will now form the basis of our travel strategy catering for our UK lay-over. That break away to foreign shores was great to give us a bit of a European fix, which has proved to be a priceless lesson. Whether it is a City-break for a long weekend or a quick week in the sun somewhere, having enough days to facilitate that break away that could be a god-send during our time back in the UK.

2. Book things up ahead of your return to the UK

Psychologists and Life Coaches agree that to have something to look forward to every 13 weeks is important for our well-being. I think for us wanderlusters, we need something more frequently than that. 

Whilst we were in Portugal, three weeks before our winter trip ended, we began making plans for our 90 days sentence in our homeland. Those plans included a surprise Birthday trip to see my bestie on the Isle of Man, family gatherings to reconnect with loved ones and even practical appointments like Motorhome service, MOT and Dentists. We also took the opportunity to do different things to mark events such as Mother’s Day and Birthdays. This certainly made our time back in the UK more wholesome rather than simply ‘sitting out our time’  before our pass to freedom was released. It gave us a purpose, made life more pleasurable and allowed us to do things that added value to our lives. After all life is just too damned short. 

3. Build in a European non-Schengen or long-haul visit

We’ve talked a lot about the Schengen Shuffle and how to maximise our travel time outside of the UK. And there’s absolutely no reason why this couldn’t work in our favour during our Schengen Sentence too. So why not consider a week to Croatia whilst they finalise their Schengen membership?  At the time of writing, they are a non-Schengen option and will be until 2024. So that is a very viable option that has no impact on our allowance. What about Cyprus? They too are outside of Schengen for the moment; same with Morocco, Turkey, Romania and Bulgaria. We’re not suggesting taking the van; we are saying – why not fly for a bit of a holiday? If funds allow why not go further afield for an adventure? This will certainly be on our agenda for future years as we look to take advantage of what Brexit offers.

4. Put your van in storage and have a staycation

If like us you are full-time then some of the options above might seem a bit more tricky to navigate. After all what do we do with our van? Often our insurance small print says that we are not allowed more than 48  hours away from the van, so that can add a very real complication. Our Comfort Policy though does say that we can store the van in a CaSSOA Gold standard Site, so that is what we did. We found Cadeside Storage and Campsite in Wellington, Somerset, that allows members of the Caravan and Motorhome Club to store their van safely and compliantly. So we took advantage of this and on two separate occasions stored Scoobie for just £50 per week. There is also a monthly charge if you wanted to go away for longer.

This has been revolutionary for us and will absolutely feature in future Schengen Sentence periods. It has also confirmed our need to ensure we keep up with our C&MC membership fee. This storage facility allowed us to book up an AirBnB in the Roseland Peninsula, a part of Cornwall that we don’t know and would never dream of taking Scoobie to – and it was an amazing retreat. 

5. Tour the UK and Ireland

I think Brexit offers us a huge opportunity to explore our own country. And whilst we may prefer the balmy weather and cheaper lifestyle across the Channel, our homeland has some terrific sights to see. Whilst we didn’t do much exploring during this particular period, 2021 saw us explore areas that were brand new to us. Essex, what a joy that county is. Scotland – goes without saying, especially Dumfries and Galloway. And then there’s Wales with its hidden gems. Of course the weather is not guaranteed yet having seen some of the Spanish forecasts this spring, sunshine is never a banker.  

As part of our 2022 advantures, we are heading over to Ireland, both north and south. Neither of these countries contribute to our Schengen allowance so we are totally free to roam here either as part of a longer road-trip or as a way to break up your Schengen Sentence. You can sail with Stena Lines from Liverpool, Holyhead or Fishguard. Or why not take the opportunity to visit the Isle of Man, sailing from Liverpool or Heysham. Whilst the ferries are not cheap, if you go for long enough, then the cost is no more than hard hitting than our diesel costs. 

6. Buy a little run around car (if you don’t already have one)

Whilst I would much rather ride alongside my travel buddy in the van, having our little runaround car that we bought during Covid, has been a priceless resource for us; even though we have to travel in convoy. Finding little campsites tucked away in the countryside has allowed us to still roam and reach appointments having the car by our side. Granted this comes with additional complications when you come to return to the Schengen Zone again. Although we have found a campsite who will store the car for us for £30 per month and of course we can SORN it and don’t have to pay out for insurance whilst we are away. So we will just built it into our monthly budgeting.


7. Get your DIY jobs done

As we reflect back on our 6 years of travel, we have found that whilst on the road, we rarely have much time to do practical ‘stuff’.  You know things like clean the roof, bash the carpets and fix things that have rattled and rolled on the roads through Europe. The one thing about living or travelling in a van is that there is always something to mend – or so it seems to us. It is true that our travel lifestyle means that sometimes we need to stop to do our jobs, and so having time in the UK to be still and address our little niggles has been so productive.  Having access to DIY shops and places that fulfil your creativity is great and gives your van a whole new personality, ready for your next trip.

When we see that this period can serve a positive purpose, then it helps us navigate the time with a healthier mindset.

8. Start to plan your next Schengen trip

Talking about your next trip, use this homeland time to look forward; to dream, plan and organise. It keeps your wanderlust satiated and gives you something to work towards. This has certainly been true for us. Planning our next 10 months out has been a really good focus, especially given that it needs a bit more thinking through these days. I have really enjoyed finding places to visit when we head over to Ireland. Going through Pinterest and joining new Facebook groups to collect ideas keeps the excitement going. Whilst I am an advocate of being grounded in the here and now, having half an eye on the immediate future is also healthy, especially when you are trying to navigate being in a place where you might find yourself stuck. 

Planning for a trip

9. Find new places to visit and some ‘go to’ stopovers

Whilst we have focused our time and location on the M5 corridor, we have also tried to mix up our ‘homes’. We’ve balanced going to CL’s that we love for their location, walks and accessibility to the motorway. Also we have relished finding new spots that are so easy to bypass keeping our sense of exploration alive.

We loved our Orchard Farm Campsite and Glamping Pods near Glastonbury for a Mother’s Day surprise; being on the Somerset Levels exploring the Nature Reserves; finding a lovely wild spot at Dunkeswell Aerodrome and enjoying Broadhembry in Devon.  We have a go-to site in Hereford in the middle of the countryside at Holme Lacey and love our Golf Centre retreat at Cleveland. We have indulged ourselves in days out finding new hidey holes at Frampton on Severn and Otterton Mill down in Budleigh Salterton.

When we reflect back it’s been quite a rich set of experiences that are all too easy to miss waiting impatiently for our new 90 day allowance to begin. 

Avoid places that just make you feel uncomfortable for whatever reason. It’s important to feel at home whilst we navigate this period. We’ve chosen mostly CL’s with hardstanding to avoid sinking and which enable us to manage our UK budget, which is invariably more expensive than on the continent, where we wild camp a lot more. Also it is worth keeping a mindful eye on Bank and School Holidays as advanced booking may be required. We got caught out during the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee.  

10. Do things that make you feel good

Life is always about balance and when you find yourself in a place that feels less than appealing, it is important to nurture your physical and mental well-being. So dig deep and focus on what motivates you, makes you feel fit and healthy and that pleases you. Whether that might be finding a yoga class, doing some daily walking, eating nice meals or engaging in a hobby that you love. Or perhaps do things that you wouldn’t normally have time for when you’re out travelling. Treat yourself to meetings with friends, or making connections with people you’ve met on the road. Anything that gives you a focus, makes you feel good and inspires you. All these important little wins will help you manage any sadness you feel not being able to travel in the way you really want to. 

Whist we would undoubtedly prefer to be in Europe full-time (minus the MOT of course), that is not possible right now. So this time back in the UK has been revolutionary for us and has given us a new perspective of how we can travel differently. Small adjustments to the way we manage our non-Schengen time will help make a happy life rather than one peppered with irritation and longing. Life is short and finding ways to adopt a healthy approach to our challenges is key to our happiness.

So we hope that sharing our experiences from the last three months might give you something to think about with your travels. We would also love to hear from you if you have other ideas to add to this list. How have you managed your Schengen Sentence that we can share with others? Please feel free to add comments below or comment on our Facebook Page.

Here’s to a healthy, happy and heavenly travel experiences, home and abroad.


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6 Reasons to send you to Coventry

6 Reasons to send you to Coventry

Coventry is not the first place in England that I would naturally think of as a place to visit. Yet we have come to appreciate after 6 years of full-time travel that every place has a uniqueness to offer anyone who has a dose of curiosity. So in this short City Guide we share with you the highlights that we found during a recent half-day visit.  You never know, Coventry might well end up being on your ‘Travel To Do List’. Let’s see if we can persuade you.  

Coventry is perhaps famous for two things;

  • The idiom of ‘Sending you to Coventry’ suggesting that we are deliberately ostracising you, which really doesn’t sell the notion of visiting any time soon.
  • The infamous bombing of the city on 14 November 1940 that whilst it may have destroyed its Cathedral did not dent its spirit. 


Officially mapped in the West Midlands, Coventry is nestled in the heart of industrial Britain and as such leaves the city with a reputation that seems not worthy of a tourist visit. These days that industry has morphed from clock and watches to bicycles, motor and aircraft manufacturing.  Yet as England’s 20th largest city, when you open its Pandora Box you might be surprised with what it has to offer.  


1. City of Culture 2021/22

In 2017, Coventry was awarded City of Culture for 2021 due to its diversity, youthful vibe thanks to its 3 universities and central location. Postponed from 2021 because of Covid, Coventry has been celebrating its City of Culture status that has firmly put it on the UK map. Even Radio 1 are doing a Roadshow up there. The kudos of having this accolade does Coventry’s reputation the world of good and encourages us to see it through new eyes. 


2. The Reel Store

Triggered as part of the cultural celebrations, the old Telegraph Newspaper offices have been converted into a state of the art immersive, digital gallery allowing visitors to be entertained by an AI experience. The Reel Store is expected to be a permanent exhibition and on 13 May opened its doors with this unique art presentation – and we were one of the first to experience this incredible event. The current exhibition is a collaboration between Rafik Anadol and NASA, using a collection of 2 million pictures from space and calibrated into this unique immersive experience. For £10 per person you will be thrown into a 20 minute display of movement, colour and sound that will transport you to a totally different world.  Check out our video below.


3. Medieval Coventry

Coventry has a long history going back centuries and had, once upon a time the best preserved Medieval quarter of any city in England. Although Spon Lane’s offerings, where you will see magnificent examples of buildings dating back to the Middle Ages, didn’t in fact originate here. They have been relocated from around the city and brought together in one place. As you walk down the lane you see the fusion of Tudor designs and timbers at home alongside modern premises and businesses. Yet the paradox is that they are kept alive by this symbiotic arrangement. It is well worth searching out this area of the city, which is within walking distance of the train station. 

Check out our gallery below.


4War-time Coventry

Of course Coventry is perhaps best known for its World War 2 history, where on the fateful night of 14/15 November 1940, the Nazi’s blitzed the city, thought to be a target because of their ammunition factories. Coventry had no warning of the impending doom for their city and so they were at the mercy of the German’s bombs. Razed to the ground, Coventry was seen as one of Germany’s most successful battles; killing more than 600 people, bombing over a third of the factories and ammunition centres and reducing Coventry’s industrial reputation quite literally to rubble. To see Coventry’s strength in redefining itself is a testament to its spirit. Today the modern feel is shaded by unnaturally open city spaces that have clearly been shaped by that fateful night. It feels like an emotional journey to come here amidst the modern office buildings and tower blocks although their facades hide a pain from the past and a spirit of forgiveness. 


5. Coventry Cathedral, Old and New

One very noticeable victim of the bombing was the city’s grand Cathedral. Defiled by bombing, the building was almost completely destroyed much to the horror of the locals. And yet the very next morning, it was not anger that fuelled survivors to rush to the razed church body, it was forgiveness. It stands today as it did on 14th November 1940 with its heart ripped out and yet when you walk through the church gates into its seemingly empty belly, its soul is very much in tact. A skeleton that stands for forgiveness and fortitude.  The tower, which avoided destruction can be climbed for an aerial view of the city, which they hope to reopen in summer 2022. 

Then in direct contrast, the new Cathedral which adjoins the old has a totally different feel to it. Tall, hollow it felt to me and very soulless, although with a stained glass window that is its crowning glory and well worth seeing.


6. Coventry’s Parks and Canal 

Whilst on this visit we didn’t get a chance to visit, Coventry has a surprising number of parkland areas for walking, cycling or play if you have kids to entertain. In fact there are around 16 parks in total. If my intuition was to serve me well, I suspect that some of the parks are as a consequence of the bombing and using the demolished sites in a more positive way. I could find nothing to confirm my instincts, although it feels right. The Coventry Canal, the basin of which you will find to the north of the city is a 38 mile stretch of canal that eventually feeds into the Trent and Mersey at Lichfield. It is navigable by boat, Paddle Board or cycle – on the tow path of course (she says having steered her electric bike into the Llangollen Canal in Wales). 


How to get there

Coventry is dead centre in England and in the heart of the motorway network so whichever direction you come from, getting here is pretty easy. South east of Birmingham and directly north of Leamington-Spa, you can easily hop onto the M6, M1 or M40 to reach this understated city. Alternatively you have a great rail network that links Coventry north and south, so reaching this unusual hub is relatively easy. There are plenty of car parks in the city as you’ll see in the map below. For a day’s parking we paid £6.


Where to stay 

If you are travelling with your camper or motorhome, then there are no campsites in Coventry. Although you don’t need to go far to find a range of sites from which you can hop onto a train. We’ve included a map from Search for Sites of just some of the options. Leamington Spa in Warwickshire in particular would make a really nice base enabling you to explore more than just Coventry, which is just an added bonus. 

For hotels, check out the map below just to show you how many hotel options there are open to you and choose a booking platform to assess prices across the city. 


Where to eat

As with every city in the world, there are all sorts of eateries to choose from, from your branded restaurants to local bistros with food represented from every corner of the world. As a diverse city with multi-ethnicities and not forgetting that it is catering for its University population, Coventry has every food style you can imagine. We ate at Wagamamas as Myles had never been there, so we thought we’d try it. If you would like something that is slightly out of the city and combine it with a place to stay overnight to boot, then why not try The Old Mill in Baginton which is directly south of the city just a 10 minute drive. It is a quintessential English pub and definitely worth checking out and has an enormous car park if you happen to take the motorhome in with you.

So what do you think? Coventry – is it worth a visit? Certainly before our day’s visit I can honestly say that I would never have considered it on my must visit list. Although having been, I think it definitely needs promoting for a day’s visit. Much like an onion, when you strip away the ugly outer layers that perhaps shapes its national reputation, a sweet centre is revealed. We hope that you might give Coventry a chance and let us know what you think. 


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