Eastern Europe Camping Highlights

Eastern Europe Camping Highlights

Being in our camper allows us to change our vista every day, if we wish, and gives us the freedom to get into the heart of the countryside, in amongst nature.

Travelling is such a privilege and feels even more so when you can take your home with you wherever you go. Being in our camper allows us to change our vista every day, if we wish, and gives us the freedom to get into the heart of the countryside, in amongst nature.  During our 18 months of full-timing we’ve encountered a range of ‘homes’ from wild sites on cliff tops, to fields that resembled nothing short of a glorified car park, to the charm of a five van Aire in a tiny French village in the middle of nowhere.

2017 has been the year of (ad)venturing further east away from the relative comfort of Western Europe.  We left our traditional lives in UK to push the boundaries, to explore and find the road less travelled, so at some stage the call east was bound to resound.  So what would Eastern Europe bring us, how would we fair camping in the Balkan lands?  Shrouded in Communistic shadows and media spin, we had a little trepidation about what to expect.  Today we want to put the record straight.  The Balkans is stunningly beautiful section of Europe and needs us to indulge our curious spirits.  Although my focus for this blog is more about camping in this eastern land rather than advocating the countryside beauty.  Come read about our camping highlights; we stayed at lots of great spots, although these are our favourites and deserve a bit of publicity and promotion.

The Balkans is stunningly beautiful section of Europe and needs us to indulge our curious spirits.

Finding good campsites is not difficult anywhere in Europe although their quality does vary dramatically.  And interestingly that’s rarely to do with the country and more to do with the people who run it or who lovingly create it, we have found.  Spending five months travelling through Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary and Slovenia (in 2016),  we have been introduced to some great camping experiences; in fact some of our best ‘homes’ feature in this latest tour. Here we have taken the opportunity to show-case our favourite, must-visit Eastern Europe and Balkan camping beauties in the hope that they give you the inspiration and comfort to head over this way. *(All prices are for a MOHO, two people and electricity.)

Greek Gorgeousness

Camping Nicholas II – Epidavros; Peloponnese – ACSI (37.630003 23.158203) http://mouria.gr/en/nicolas-ii/

This is one of two sites run by the same family, although in our opinion, this was the best.  A small terraced site about 3km from Nea Epidavros on the eastern thumb of the Peloponnese.  €19 out of season with ACSI.  The site is narrow and pitches a bit tight to manoeuvre into if you have a rig longer than 7.5 metres, although it is a beautiful spot, right on the edge of the sea.  With great shade to ward off the Greece sunshine, this site offers a relaxed place to rest up for a couple of nights with the town within easy reach by bicycle and the Amphitheatre not more than a 30 minute drive away.  Good showers are available, with a restaurant next door that has a good reputation, although we didn’t eat there.

Camping ‘No Problem’ – Agios Galini, Crete ACSI (35.099947 24.694821)

Camping ‘No Problem’

This is another family run and small site that whilst, like many campsites in Greece, have little pitch structure, has a certain charm.  Only a couple of minutes walk to the beach and only ten minutes from the delightful Agios Galini, Camping ‘No Problem’ is great for a week or two.  Hiring a car from the town nearby, gives you easy access to the surrounding southern beaches and the campsite’s restaurant is superb, offering a high quality and good value meal.  And the swimming pool is to die for, especially at the beginning of the season when you have the snow-peaked mountains as your backdrop view.

Camping Vachros – Kastraki, Greece mainland (39.713493 21.615812) ACSI www.campingkastraki.com

Meteora is one of those unique sites around the world that will never leave your heart.  It gets under your skin and you find yourself transported to a very special place of awestruck loveliness.  Staying at Camping Vachros right on the fringe of the National Park is a joy, especially when you see the view from the swimming pool. You are within five minutes walk to the village and only a 10 minute drive to the first of your floating monasteries.  It is an incredibly special place and feels a privilege to visit.  Aside from the pool, the campsite has plenty of pitches, decent shower facilities and a restaurant run by the family.  It costs €18 per night.

Bulgaria Beauties

Camping Kromidovo, Kromidovo (41.454460 23.3629940). www.campingkromidovo.com

After leaving our love affair with Greece behind, we wondered how life in Bulgaria would fare for us. In fact what would Bulgaria be like as an experience, altogether?  Well after a simple crossing over the border, our fears were allayed immediately. Good roads, beautiful countryside with vineyards, rolling hills and a super campsite waiting for us within 20 minutes of arriving in Bulgaria.  Result!  English couple, Sara and John moved over to Bulgaria to set up this lovely campsite, which has more of a feel of their back garden than anything stuffy from a commercial site.  With only  eight or so spots, free wifi and fantastic shower facilities, Sara and John make you feel so welcome.  Sat in the foothills of the Pirin Mountains, you have so much to explore as you ground yourself in the Bulgarian culture.  Try Melnik, only 11km away, which is easily reached by bicycle, for a great introduction to the Bulgarian architecture and way of life – oh and a bit of wine! Low season €16, high season €17.  Bargain!

Camping Alexandrovo – nr Haskovo (41.987199 25.726452) www.campingalexandrovo.com

Welcomed by Matt, a lovely guy from England, Camping Alexandrovo is a delight.  Another site that is more like a back garden, Matt’s place oozes beauty, views and security.  Whilst the village isn’t pretty and doesn’t offer anything much, when you’re behind his walled garden nothing else matters.  It’s a great spot to just chill out after a busy Bulgaria tour of either the northern or southern regions.  Just east of Plovdiv, this is a great spot for checking out the city or heading further east to Turkey, which is only a couple of hours away.  And you have to get up early for the sunrise, which is something else!  Hammocks, a brick built barbecue and great facilities await you here and we highly recommend this restful retreat. Only €17.50 in high season!  Check out our Drone footage below!

Romantic Romania

Camping Dan – Danube Delta, Murighiol  (45.040556 29.156389) www.campingdanpescarul.ro

This is a beautiful, homely campsite run by Nina and her fisherman husband Dan.  You are in their back garden, which is so tenderly cared for, with good facilities and the opportunity to go out with Dan at 6.00am or 5.00pm for a trip on his fishing boat into the Delta.  For €25pp for two hours, this is a unique experience that gets you into the heart of this precious ecosystem, which is the second largest delta in Europe.  If you love photography and nature, then this is a must-do place for your travelling agenda.  And all this for only €10 per night.  Bargain.


Pensuinea Alpin Ranch – Zarnesti, Transylvania  (45.578274 25.344021) www.alpin-ranch.com/ro/

This was a gorgeous little find, hidden in the hills behind Zarnesti and so much nicer than the touristic Bran’s Castle about 20 minutes away.  We loved it here.  Whilst the approach to the Guest House owned by Constantino and Otilia is steep and a bit tricky to navigate, it is doable and their lower garden area is beautiful. With Zorro the Shetland pony to entertain you and an afternoon tea perhaps from Otilia, you will feel very much at home.  The facilities are a little basic, although the charm of the owners (who speak English and German) and the surroundings absolutely make up for it.  And for only €14 per night, it’s good value too.  You can cycle or drive to the Liberty Bear Sanctuary, which is only 15 minutes away, which is a very humbling experience.  Check out our blog here.

Hungry for Hungary

Camping Makó – Makó (46.203451 20.456136) ACSI www.campingmako.hu

Camping Makó

Run by a Dutch couple, this motel and medium sized campsite is a perfect stopover en route to or from Romania, being only 30 minutes away from the border.  There’s no structured pitches and basic facilities, although it has a non-commercialised and informal feel to it.  As you drive in you are welcomed with Hungarian flags and their own church, which has some interesting history!  Underneath the trees you get great shade and you are not far from the river where you can hire a boat or two.  They have a restaurant offering local fare, although we didn’t eat there.  There are plenty of walks just outside of the campsite and you are only five minutes drive away from what looked like a charming thermal town with its own Spa and Baths.  Well worth a look around if you have time.  €18 per night.

Camping Haller Budapest (47.476100 19.083640) ACSI www.hallercamping.hu

Whilst this site wasn’t salubrious and has a commercial feel to it, it was ideal for visiting Budapest.  You are only a 15 minute walk to the Danube and museums, from which you can then pick up trams and only 10 minutes walk from the station where you can buy your travel tickets for getting around the city.  Tram number 24 stops right outside the campground.  The facilities aren’t great, although there are plenty of parking spots and a restaurant if you don’t fancy cooking.  We found an amazing restaurant in town, close to the Parliament Buildings, which we highly recommend.  Click here for our review.   Surprisingly, Camping Haller is not as noisy as you might expect from an inner city campsite and at only €18 per night and really cheap washing machine facilities – it’s a super place to explore the city.

Camping Hintohaz – Somogygeszti (46.544304 17.944119) ACSI  www.kempinghintohaz.nl

Our final and best camping spot in our brief sojourn in Hungary was Camping Hintohaz. Run by Dutchman André, you will be greeted with a friendly and informal welcome, a drink from the bar and a wonderfully terraced campsite with excellent facilities.  In fact one of the best shower blocks we have seen in Eastern Europe.  André has put a huge investment into the campsite and with its beautifully grassed areas, you have tranquility, countryside views and comfort.  There was no ‘locked gate until you pay’ policy here, unlike another campsite we experienced in Hungary.  We highly recommend coming to this campsite if you’re close by.  Whilst there isn’t much to do in the surrounding area, sometimes this is just what you need.  André is keen to share a bit of Hungarian history, which is wonderful and his warmth is palpable.  And only for €10 per night.  This is an absolute must visit.

Check out our Drone footage here:

Perfectly Poland

After seven weeks in Poland in the summer of 2018, we were blessed with 34 different places to stay, of which 12 were campsites. Sites here are often eclectic, although always delightful and our spot best sites were:

Camping Polana Sosny – Dunajec (49.40475, 20.33288) ACSI www.niedzica.pl

This was a super campsite nestled in between Dunajec Reservoir with its grand historic castle and the fast-flowing Dunajec river. At just £10 per night, which even in August has plenty of space, this is a steal. 2 miles away from the castle, just up on the dam for a gorgeous sunset and you can book river kayaks from here too. We did a 22 mile cycle that took us left from the site into Slovakia and then we followed the river path for 14 miles before crossing the bridge and then coming through the forest. What a stunning location.

Camping Polana Sosny, Dunajec

Camping Polana Sosny, Dunajec

Castle Dunajec, Poland

Castle Dunajec, Poland

Camping Kaputy – Warsaw (52.2305, 20.7919) ACSI  www.camping222.pl

A super ACSI site that gave you a 10% discount even though it was summer season. Attached to a hotel, the grounds were well managed and the facilities excellent. A bus stopped just outside the campsite for Warsaw although it looked a bit of a trek, so we moved to the secure parking on the day we wanted to visit the city. Highly recommend this lovely spot.

Camping Kaputy Warsaw

Camping Kaputy Warsaw


Sumptuous Slovakia

Camping Podlestok  (48.9644, 20.38524) www.podlesok.sk
Slovakia actually a perfectly sumptuous place to wild camp and in our three weeks there we only had five nights in a campsite. Although this one is in the heart of an amazing National Park, which if you love challenging hikes, is a must.
The campsite is a bit uneven although with chocks is ok. There’s a number of hook up points up at the top of the campsite. You need to buy .50c tokens for the washing machine and shower (which lasts 3 mins) The same token does a 1hr wash. For a night and two people with EHU it cost €17.50 in August and with walks directly from the site, it really is an ideal spot.
Camping Podlesok Paradise National Park.

Camping Podlesok Paradise National Park.


So, what can we say?  Central and Eastern Europe are full of treasure, warmth, incredible sights and experiences and wonderful places to stay. If you love wild camping, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and Slovakia are particular good as long as you abide by the values of discretion, respect and giving back.  Recent history may well have tarnished the countries’ reputation, although they are rebuilding their lives, growing stronger and with their resilience are fight back to earn their rightful place in people’s affections.  Central and Eastern Europe are not to be feared – they are only to be loved. Cost of living is a bonus to the experience of travelling through these wonderful countries and we cannot recommend more highly some time in these delightful, unassuming and peaceful places.  Come East, you’ll not regret it!

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Greek Odyssey – Week 3

Greek Odyssey – Week 3

Greek Odyssey, Week 3

So the latest chapter from our Greek Odyssey had the promise of some better weather, which could mean only one thing; hikes, bikes and kayaks. For that we needed a beach and that’s one thing that Greece has aplenty.  So from a windy north coast Peloponnese we headed east – not chasing the sun you understand, just travelling in the vain hope that the forecast, offering us a big yellow ball of heat, would enhance our Greek experiences.  And enhance it, it did.

Corinth Canal, Greece

En route to the Peloponnese thumb, it would have been rude to not stop off at the Corinth Canal.  We had seen our friends from the Two Drifters go through this last year on their catamaran heading for the Caribbean, so we were keen to see it.   And what great timing!  As we arrived to marvel at the sinking bridge, five boats were due to enter the canal and so we actually got to see the bridge in action.  Not only that, Mr Controller invited us into his inner sanctum to watch the boats move through.  Typical Greek hospitality as we’ve come to learn.

Scoobie’s Camperstop, Epidavros

From canals to the famous Peloponnese coastline, we searched for a place we could call ‘home’ after a lot of travelling. After a few failed attempts down some challenging roads, we eventually parked up at Archaia Epidavros where we were treated to the lullaby of gently crashing waves, the historical intrigue of the sunken village, ancient amphitheatres, stunning sunrises and organic olive oil. This was just perfect. There were a couple of wild camping opportunities here. (Co-ords N37.63694 E23.16188).  So we anchored down for five days and rested our travel-weary bones and this little town gave us the rejuvenation that we needed.  This stunning little bay harbours crystal clear, azure blue waters, peninsulas decorated with oak and pine trees and an authentic village life trying to make a living.  


Characterful restaurants line the harbour front and a stunning Greek Church sits proudly above the bay creating a great backdrop to the whole area.  If you do visit, you must check out Athena Ecofarm who have their own Organic Olive Grove, shop and bar where they not only produce sensational oil, they also sell oil based products and herbs grown locally on their farm.  There’s a fabulous deli in town that sells a whole range of wallet-emptying items.  Needless to say a few purchases were made during our stay.  If you head towards the Sunken City, which is walking distance from the town to the west, there is a campsite – Camping Nikolas I and a bar at the end of the road, which sits right on the beach.  If you’re looking to camp rather than wild, we would recommend Camping Nikolas II, (N37 616111 E23.15861) which although is part of the same group, is a much nicer site than its sibling.  With its terraced pitches and shore frontage spots, it’ll be hard to leave here at an ACSI price of €17 for a MH and two.  (Trickier for vehicles over 7.5m though).

Ancient Amphitheatre, Epidavros

One of the main reasons people come to this area is the ancient Amphitheatre and Sanctuary, which is about 20km inland, up in the mountains. The theatre has been restored beautifully although it still has a very genuine feel to it, when you look past the coach load of tourists. The rest of the park, which is huge, is still under reconstruction.  Not quite sure how I feel about the rebuilding, as it looses so much of its authenticity, although we must keep this ancient history alive – it’s a tricky balance.  This has so much history to it and the Sanctuary, with its healing rituals and baths brought people from all over Europe to heal their ailments.  Rumour has it that Epidavros or Epidauros is the birth place of the Epidural injection. 

After our souls had been suitably rested, we headed further on around the coast, being  delighted by the most incredible views across the Aegean Sea to Méthana, the peninsular of 30 volcanoes. With verges of deep red poppies waving in the gentle breeze and a burst of spring flowers set off against the sparkling sea, how could you not fall in love? 

Méthana Volcano

Méthana is a delight – the town, from which you can get a ferry to Piraeus, is a quaint seaside town with thermal baths, which smell more than our grey waste tank.  Still it is worth a couple of night’s stay as there is so much to do here.  We stayed at the harbourside, just opposite the Thermal Baths, which offers a great view of the town and coast.  Although no services here, it’s a great spot to explore.  (N37.577552 E23.389477)  Your reward is hiking up in the mountains, ancient monuments and evidence of volcanic activity everywhere. Something for everyone. Méthana’s biggest draw though is her Volcano. A 20 minute drive around the peninsular, which is narrow although doable with the Motorhome out of season, gives you a chance to regale at the delights of this geological masterpiece.  Rock climbing alongside this still active volcano, this challenging 20 minute walk offers you the most incredible views across the bay to Epidavros and also climb into one of the vents in the belly of this volcano.  It is a must see if you’re fit and able to do a bit of rock clambering.  The larva deposits have created some incredible artwork and framed by the pine trees and the azure seas, it is a must! 

So another week, another amazing top up to our Greek Odyssey.  Some great ‘homes’, wonderful hospitality and all of this shared with great friends.  What more could you ask for?  I’m not sure any longer that ‘music be the food of love’. I think it must be Greece.  Kx