Sometimes a place gets into your heart quite by surprise especially when it wasn’t even on the itinerary. For us this was the joy of Uppsala, a university city one hour north of the country’s capital Stockholm. So in this blog we consider the question is Sweden’s Uppsala a better alternative to Stockholm?

We’re not big city fans. We adore nature, wilderness and the great outdoors. Although for any authentic traveller worth their salts, throwing in a dose of urban is an essential balance to the travel perspective. Cities for all their busy vibes offer a plethora of history, ghostly footsteps, culture and an experience that makes us appreciate the natural world even more. From time to time, we find a place that totally knocks our socks off, surprises us with its small city charm and ingratiates itself into our souls with the ease of slicing warm butter.

Uppsala will go down as one of those cities that we both fell in love with and will return to explore some more. In the meantime our short visit here was enough to give us a taster and a desire to implore others to come. Of course on this eastern edge of Sweden, its capital city Stockholm is perhaps the major draw. And why not! With more museums than you can shake a stick at, so many islands that you can hop on hop off too and of course the capital culture, Stockholm is actually a really beautiful city to explore. Especially if like us, you search out the alternative sides of the city rather than the more traditional views.

Let us take you into the characterful charm of Uppsala and see if we can’t draw you north for a bit more of a quiet exploration.

1. History to Uppsala

We must go back a few thousand centuries to find Uppsala’s historical roots. Whilst evidence of human settlement dates back to 5,000 BC, there is more significance perhaps from 3 AD, where Vikings and legendary Swedish Kings hung out. The really ‘old town’ Galma Uppsala can be found just 3 miles, 5km north west of the city. A visit to this precious land gives you an insight into the days of old where royalty and inhabitants were buried in mounds that are still very part of today’s landscape. A blend of folklore and Swedish traditions are deeply embedded at Gamla Uppsala and you feel it in every footstep you take.

For a look at the more recent past, then the Open Aire museum at Disagården will give you a peek into Swedish life in the country back in the 1800’s or, of course you can return back to the ‘new’ Uppsala by the river where medieval life will spring eternal thanks to its cathedral and castle dating back to 1270 and 1549 respectively. Add to that the significance of Uppsala’s ancient seat of learning , a university that has evolved from the 15th century, there is plenty here to satisfy the historian in us.

Uppsala is Sweden’s 4th largest city and historically one of the most integral to the religious, political and academic fabric of Sweden’s culture. And so a trip back in time to feel the very vibrations of this early settlement, somehow seems important to a visit to Sweden if you want to do more box tick places seen.

2. Today’s Uppsala

 Uppsala isn’t just about yesterday – it’s a vibrant hub of sustainability and life sciences, shaping tomorrow’s world

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Our Swedish friends have a wonderful way of describing modern Uppsala, set against the backdrop of its ancient beginnings. They say it is the ‘The city of eternal youth.’ That seems fitting as you see the copious amounts of bicycles and scooters littered around the streets thanks to its university. In July however, when we visited, it was devoid of their youthful effervescence, as school was out for summer. So there was a peaceful vibe that settled around the city. I can only imagine what it is like when students are in residence. There must be a real buzz humming around the city.

Known on the international stage as ‘The Cambridge of Sweden’ this characterful city is dominated by its scholarly vibe. More locally it is classed as one of the oldest cities in the country, and with its political and historical roots, it is one of the most important as well. And yet in all our research we never really clocked Uppsala as an option. Stockholm yes, Uppsala no. And yet as travelling introverts, the compact nature of Uppsala has it sold to us as quickly as a car salesperson.

There are three clearly defined personalities when it comes to Uppsala. You have what I class as the old town, with the castle, its gardens and the cathedral. Then there is the more modern town on the other side of the river. And finally you have the ancient Uppsala which is just 3 miles (5km) north of the city. Each one holds its own fascination for the curious traveller and, for us, a definite alternative to Stockholm.

3. The Ancient town – Gamla Uppsala

Let’s start right at the beginning when the seeds for Uppsala were scattered to this winds. Back in the Viking days before Christianity had shaped the land, a pagan community dominated the fertile plain just north of the city we know today. With sacrifices and worship, the whole area is a leap back in time to a totally different world. Unlike most ancient sites around the world, there are still visible signs of life, or should I say death? This holds such an important cultural heritage for Swedes as a centrepiece for their political and religious infrastructure. The first Thing – Political Assembly, was held up in Gamla Uppsala and so the importance of this region is without question.

The three Royal burial mounds are a dominant feature of the landscape, and are said to date back to the 5/6th century, being the resting place of kings and, according to legend, Pagan gods of the time. The Royal Mounds are the oldest of Swedish symbols and are key to Sweden’s identity. So a visit here is a must.

The Atlas Obscurer listed 12th century church here is built on the grounds of the ancient Uppsala Temple. This simple stone cathedral has been part of a colourful past; fires, royalty and nobleman during its lifetime. Today’s stone building stands as testimony to a Viking era that gave birth to values that all of Sweden hold dear to this day. There is a gravestone of Anders Celsius, mathematician, physicist and astronomer who is buried here after his death in 1744. Look about halfway down on the left-hand side of the aisle for a small notice that shows where he is laid to rest, beneath the red carper.

You can park easily in the car park and for those travelling with a motorhome, you can actually stay here overnight for free. With toilets, fresh water and a chemical toilet disposal, this is perfect for us. If you travel without your own transport, then you can catch the Number 2 Bus which will bring you from the new Uppsala up to the Old Town. Expect to have at least an hour here, just wandering around the church, the grove, where the Tree of Life is said to have once stood and the Royal Mounds. You can extend your visit to explore the Open Air Museum; Disagården that has preserved buildings from the 1700 and 1800s. All this is free to explore. The only fee you would need to pay is if you wanted to visit the museum at Gamla, which costs 150SEK per person and includes a guided tour. For English tours, there may be limited options depending on the season.

Gamla Uppsala gives you a peek into not only the ancient footprints of Uppsala, it will show you the foundation for all things that the Swedes hold dear to this very day.

4. Uppsala – the castle, cathedral and gardens

Heading back into the city from the Old Town, you have time to wander around the two sides of the city, either side of the river. If you park here, outside of term time, you have a perfect location to explore the town. If you come with your own leisure vehicle, then this is an ideal place for overnight too. It cost us just 40SEK on a Sunday outside of the school term. Other times will cost you 100SEK for 24hrs, which is £3 and £7.70 respectively.

Heading from this perfectly situated car park, you are lured towards the main city attractions by the heady scent of floral blooms. Within seconds, and this is no exaggeration, you are in the middle of the most incredible Botanical Gardens that may well be on a smaller scale than Kew in London, however, these have a really genuine feel about them, driven by teaching and preservation. Being in the university grounds, it is easy to feel the educational prowess of these gardens. They are the oldest botanical gardens in Sweden and have more significance than we might realise as we saunter through their French design.

The 18th century botanist Carl Linnaeus was born in Sweden and was a professor at Uppsala’s university. He is best known as the Father of Taxonomy; the classification of plants and animals. His hand can be felt throughout the gardens giving it a real historical edge. This is not just a garden. These are very special Botanical gardens that are over 350 years old. There are 1,300 plant species in the Botanical Gardens and 7,000 around the Orangery and castle gardens. It is truly a sight to behold at any time of the year. There are also Tropical Greenhouse gardens to explore for a small fee.

As you turn the corner through the gardens, you cannot stop yourself letting out a little whimper as you behold the magnificent Orangery, which feels like it is almost the gateway to the castle. The walk past the fountains feels so regal that you can imagine yourself almost on a royal red carpet. The castle itself has the most incredible history and for a full presentation I would strongly recommend visiting one of the three museums. To the left of the building, I visited the main historical museum that gives you insights into its tragic and infamous reputation. Built in 1549 the castle stood with royal prominence until a fire raged through the city in 1702. Part of the castle was destroyed and it took decades for the castle to be repaired in favour of the Royal Palace in Stockholm, that was also victim of an inferno. It was at this point, that Uppsala began to loose its royal city status in favour of the now capital of Sweden. Did you know that it is only one of two pink castles in the world, the other being in Scotland? It was decided to paint it pink in the 1800’s to enhance its prominence.

And if all that isn’t enough to blow your proverbial socks off, then head down to the cathedral, which on entering will absolutely take your breath away. It is one of the most stunning cathedrals I’ve been in to and is utterly exquisite. Sweden’s ecclesiastical journey began some 850 years ago and Sweden’s first cathedral still stands at Gamla Uppsala. Built in the late 13th century, this magnificent beauty is the tallest cathedral of all the Nordic lands and as your neck cranes skywards, it’s easy to see why it has that accolade.

Former King Eric IX is buried here and that is only important because Eric is the patron saint of Sweden. His body was transferred to the cathedral from Gamla Uppsala and here is now rests in peace amongst other significant gentry, Carl Linnaeus being one. As with many cathedrals, the visual glory of the design, the gold, the windows and the tombs are quite breathtaking, however you might feel about religion. It is something that you cannot miss for the artistry alone.

With this giant building, that is a landmark for miles around, as the centrepiece of your walk, it is now time to head down to the newer, old town and over the river Fysir.

5. New town Uppsala

It’s easy to have expectations of a cityscape that has such cultural importance in a country’s religious, political and intellectual framework. Yet, really there is nothing that will prepare you for the gentle character that is the modern day Uppsala. Crossing over the river Fyris, named after the mythological Viking god Freyr; god of good weather, fertility and peace, you get an instant feel of tranquility.

This is the most understated city I think we have ever been to. Despite its more modern feel, you are drawn along the gently flowing river that meanders through the heart of the city within the shadow of the giant cathedral. Bridges of every shape and design cross its waterway, giving you easy access from one side to another.

Fashionable river-fronted buildings offer a touch of class and elegance, that is subtle and appropriate. Tree lined avenues present a romantic feel as you pass by cafés and restaurants that buzz with weekenders looking for some chill time. To the left there are shopping areas with smart independent shops, to the right parks that invite you to kick off your shoes and hang like a scene from Pretty Woman with Julia and Richard.

There is so much warmth about this city and without students milling around, you have the place almost entirely to yourself. This just doesn’t have a city feel, and for me as an introvert, it suited me down to the ground.

6. Is Stockholm’s Uppsala a better alternative to Stockholm?

Well this is, of course, a matter of personal opinion and preference. As someone who loves nature and tranquility, any city that offers me that without the suffocation of traffic, buildings and organised chaos, is always going to win me over. However, even if you love a city vibe, I think you too would fall in love with Uppsala, perhaps when the buzz of students falls once again on the place. With its history, cultural significance and ancient university, there is so much to love about this place. Despite perhaps not being on many people’s travel itinerary. I genuinely hope that this blog might help you rethink that.

For more information for getting to and getting around Uppsala, check out their fabulous website here.

For travelling to Uppsala, it is an easy journey from the country’s capital airport Stockholm Arlanda that lies just 35km some 22 miles to the south. From there, there is a really good network of transport that can bring you to this little haven in no time at all. For those in their own leisure vehicles, a journey to Uppsala is a straightforward one, allowing you to by pass the Toll Roads of the capital and stick to the quieter country roads that lead to Uppsala.

My final thoughts on Uppsala as a destination are these… Imagine a city that is not plagued by cruise ship tours, endless streams of traffic, taxi boats looking for the next deal and expensive bars attracting tourists to indulge in an expensive city priced meal. Picture a compact, picturesque city that is calm, historic, liberating and open, giving space to breathe and explore and you have everything in Uppsala. It might be said that why would you have to choose? Do both. And of course that is your prerogative. Although if you had to make a choice, why not consider the accessible features of Uppsala instead. I don’t think you would be disappointed. One of our followers, who we recommended Uppsala to, said she was so glad we told her about this charming part of Sweden. She adored it too. So it’s not just us; others feel the same way.

Have we tempted you?

Check out our Shortie Series Video that captures the essence of Uppsala by clicking the image below.