Norway is such a big Bucket List for many of us. With its majestic mountains, deep fjords and indented coastline, making it a popular destination. One of the many draws to the country is Preikestolen; an iconic hike in the south near Stavanger, that attracts millions of thrill seekers each year. Yet equally, as many of us sense fear and doubt about whether we can reach the top. Are we fit, capable, brave enough to do it?

Having just completed the walk myself, holding all those doubts, in this blog I wanted to share how to conquer Norway’s Preikestolen without being an athlete.

Preikestolen – the facts

I think it is always worth starting with the facts surrounding a country or place like Preikestolen, so let’s begin here.

Thanks to the fabulous information from the official website Preikestolen.com we can learn about the mountain and cliff’s history. Essentially, Preikestolen is estimated to be over 10,000 years old, with its evolution being shaped by millions of years of Ice Age periods. After the last Ice Age, the glacier that filled the now Lysefjord, retreated leaving behind ice melt and moraine that built up. The rising sea levels and ice melt water seeped into the cracks and, through freezing and thawing, caused the rocks to fracture over the millennia. Avalanches contributed to the shape of the famous cliff face, giving it its defining personality.

The cliff itself was only discovered in 1896 by Thomas Peter Randulff, a bank manager from Stavanger who was a hiking-lover. Whilst out on a cruise he saw this incredible cliff and decided he would set out to reach it on foot. In those days there were no roads, so he and an accountant colleague had to follow the contours of the landscape until they reached a farm house that is still there to this day, at the trailhead. Over the decades more and more visitors came and changes were made to the trail to the Pulpit Rock. By the 1990’s there was a decision made that a more robust path was needed to ensure visitor’s safety. And in 2013 the famous Sherpas from Nepal were invited over to create a better path, the one that we see today. As an international icon with our digital age spreading the word about what is Norway’s number 1 hike, during summer, this trail sees up to 7000 people per day pitting themselves against this granite giant.

Preikestolen, when translated actually means Preacher’s Chair

Preikestollen365.com

Preikestolen – a personal journey

Let’s face it, there are some things in life that just terrify and inspire us in equal measure. Whether it’s a thrill seeking jump, making a huge life change to bring you greater happiness, or a tough, fitness busting walk. For me Preikestolen represented my tallest fear, my steepest challenge and my deepest doubts. Over the years I’ve worked hard on my self imposed doubts and they no longer hold me back. Although some shadows still lurk. And having researched this hike for many years, my conclusions, on paper were always the same; I could not do it, it was too high, I would fail, I was not fit enough.

There’s something about a hike like this though – it is not about how much of it you do or don’t do, and it’s not about conquering the giant in front of you. It is only ever about overcoming the giant within. The voice that attempts to dislodge you. As a Bucket List climb, Preikestolen represented so much more than just a 5 mile return walk. It represented me facing up to my fears, overcoming my joint issues and not allowing my sabotaging thoughts to get in the way of achieving something momentous.

I had asked a few friends about the walk who had taken the path ahead of us, and they said it was doable; challenging although doable. I watched Youtube videos to see if there were any death-defying ledges that I would need to navigate and any tricky sections. And nothing really stood out. I do offer a caveat however, as much of this research was for my long-suffering husband. With acrophobia, that seems to be getting worse with age and a series of lower back and groin issues, he offered to cheerlead me on and do what he could to support me.

You know when something big is looming and you get a Jelly Tot mixture of emotions that stir somewhere between your throat and your colon. I call it excityscared. It’s the feeling I get when we travel to a brand new country for the first time. I feel alive with these emotions as they remind me that having a blend of anticipation and fear thrown together that I am truly present and alive. That’s a privilege.

The morning of our hike up to Preikestolen there was an unusual quiet in the van as we drove up to Base Camp. A knowingness that something big was ahead with apprehension brewing of all those little voices vying for attention. We both felt it. Myles not wanting to let me down, yet know he too would be challenged, albeit in different ways. And me not wanting to let myself or Myles down by not reaching the top.

We had a stunning day for the climb, in fact we could not have asked for more perfect conditions. Clear blue skies, a little wind and raising temperatures all set out the pathway for a good day. Optimism was high, determination was present and we were as ready as we would ever be.

I’ll be honest, from the get go, the climb is just that. A steep ascent from the Base Camp gives you a very clear message of how this 500m elevation was going to go. It would take no prisoners. The first 300m is a gravel track, so apart from the angle, there was nothing more lung busting than that. The initial set of steps are pretty easy, luring you into a false sense of security. Even arriving at the first view point looking over Base Camp feels strangely rewarding. From this point the gradient gradually steepens almost as if trying to trick you. Your already heavy breathing bodies do not noticing the incline. However, it is not long before a much welcome change of topography meets your breathless souls. A wetland area with bog plants thriving and cotton bud flowers gently blowing the breeze of this sheltered glade. A wooden walkway invites your feet to rest to the pattern of their slats and the rest is welcome.

For the first hour, we were both pleasantly surprised how the steep yet gently climbing steps were. Myles even commented that there was little for him to complain about and certainly nothing that would force him to turn around. However that was perhaps the commentator’s curse right there. Just short of the half way point to the top, there is a really steep set of steps that rises to a short chain section. The steps narrow and the view down is pretty daunting for someone with a fear of heights. It was at this point that Myles decided enough was enough. His acrophobia had nipped up to say hello and once that happens there is no rationalising nor convincing him to carry on.

So with respect, I waved him on his way back down to Base Camp. He did amazingly well and I think we were both surprised how well he and his body stood up to the challenge to that point. So, now I continued alone. I am very happy in my own company as an introvert and walking alone is not uncommon for me.

There are many markers along the way past the chain section, so you can really track your progress. Half way was a nice feeling, although something told me that there was still some challenges ahead. It does seem strange, being used to walking 7 miles or so in any given time, that at this point I had only walked about 1 mile, yet such is the incline of that mile that it seems like five from time to time.

From half way, the topography begins to change and your heart beat and profuse sweating seem to be the name of the game. As I climbed up through the sheltered forest steps, the anticipation of the views to come was strong and boy it did not disappoint. The distant sound of the waterfalls were just loud enough over the noise of the climbers to really appreciate the surroundings. The big open sky above let me know that heaven was getting closer, just not too close I hoped. A scenery change just around the corner immediately altered the perspective. A huge mass of granite rock and two small lakes. Oh how the dogs loved this moment and us too for just a minute of contemplation.

As you can see from the picture below, the incline is massive, 500m in total, although I cherished the flatter bits and the areas where there were no steps. These were like heavenly bits of cake to bite into. There were enough of them to break up the climb and give your body a chance to rebalance. Around the corner, however, was a section that I just know in my heart, Myles could not have done. A narrow ledge with a precarious path that was completely safe, although definitely tested even my head for heights. It was over quickly and the final stretch to the Pulpit was scrambling up a massive outcrop of granite rock. Knowing that I was close was enough to push me on, although boy it took every breath in my body to put one step in front of the other. And I consider myself pretty fit even at 57.

One final section, that if you looked down, would have your legs wobbling more than a bowl full of jelly. I was literally right on the edge of the world, or so it felt. And in a flash, there it was. The moment that I had dreamt about for so long. The vista that we all desire to capture either with the lens or just our eyes, as we soak up that very minute in your life – you made it.

Sitting on the Pulpit, once I had my senses recalibrated, I was amused by the antics of selfie takers. A coach load of tourists had come in shortly after we arrived, and they had whizzed up at the top, focused only on the one prize. That photo. The photo of them jumping, standing, posing, sitting. You name it, every pose was taken. And at no point, it seemed, was there a second where they reflected on what they had achieved.

For me it was a cherished time. The sheer emotion of what I had accomplished was extraordinary and behind the breathlessness was a smile that interacted with the universe. I made it. I had not conquered Preikestolen. I had conquered my limiting beliefs that had me considering whether I could really do it. I am no lean athlete. I am carrying a little more weight than normal and yet, here I was. On hallowed ground where Tom Cruise had filmed that final scene in the 2018 Mission Impossible, Fallout.

A wave of pride flooded through me as I captured every step I had taken. I had fought my self beliefs and won. It was as much a mental battle as it was a physical one. Now all I had to do was get back down. Which strangely was far more gruesome given my knees have never liked downhill. Add to that the crowds that the mid morning coaches had delivered and it was certainly a tricky descent. Although I was high on achievement and I think that helped. Plus knowing what was coming definitely primed my feet and my mind to an easier walk back. With fears silenced, it was just my knees to contend with.

This is not a hike for the feint hearted, or for anyone with serious health ailments, mobility or heart conditions. However health willing, anyone can do this with the right mindset, the right support and the right equipment. With good weather on your side and a steady pace, it is there for the taking. You do not have to be an athlete to complete this hike.

For an intimate guide on the walk and other practicalities, check out the video I did whilst undertaking this personal endeavour.

Preikestolen – The practicalities

Now for all the practical stuff.

With a 500m ascent from Base Camp, Preikestolen is no mean feat and with challenging sections of steep and unforgiving steps of boulders, it is an intimidating prospect. The hike, and it is a hike not a walk, is from Base Camp 2.5 miles (4km) to the Rock and the same in return. However both my Smartwatch and phone recorded 6.5 miles, taking me to the main Car Park 1 close to Base Camp. It is recommended that you allow at least 4 hours to complete the walk, of course this will depend, a great deal on your fitness and capability. This is the information that is presented by Preikestolen’s official website. Note the phrase ‘moderate difficulty’. I am pretty fit and happy to walk for long distances, although this is anything but moderate. I would use the word challenging to hard.

The route to Preikestolen hike

There are two ways to reach Preikestolen.

• Either from Stavanger underneath the Ryfylketunnelen, which is tolled costing 162NOK for a 7.5m motorhome.
  
• Or you can travel from the south from Oanes via the Lauvvik Ferry. Please note that this ferry is not covered by the Autopass Ferry Discount Scheme and cost us 250NOK.

You then take the Preikestollenvegen, which is a one way in, one way out to the trail head. It’s worthing mentioning at this point that if you stay at the Preikestolen Campsite just a couple of miles from Base Camp, you can pick up a bus from outside the site. Alternatively you could catch a public bus which leaves from Stavanger. The meeting point for the Preikestolen Express is the Raddison Blu Atlantic Hotel and it costs 500NOK per person. For more information, click here.

Where to park

There are two parking areas for Preikestolen. The first car park, Parking 1 is the closest to Base Camp, which is where the trailhead begins. And it is our suggestion that this is where you head for. The parking area gets incredibly busy, so to avoid having to go an extra 1/2 mile to Parking 2, we would suggest arriving before 8am, especially if you are coming in a motorhome.

There is dedicated van parking up past the coaches, we suggest you reverse in, as by the time you return, there will be vans parked everywhere, so manoeuvring could be unnecessarily tricky.

You pay on exiting the car park and there is a machine near where the coaches park where you can pay by card. You enter your registration plate and pay 275NOK for the day.

Where to camp

There are, as you might expect plenty of parking areas around Preikestolen, offering a range of different homes for you and your van. You cannot however, stay overnight in either of the official car parks.

There are two near by campsites, which give you a good head start to an early departure for the walk being only 10 minutes away from Base Camp. The one nearest the main road is the Bobilparkering which costs 250NOK to include EHU, Wifi and water. This fills up really quickly, so to ensure a space, arrive here the night before your intended walk before 4pm at the latest.

The second campsite is further up the Preikestolenveg and therefore closer to the trailhead walk. This is a more traditional campsite and will cost you 450NOK which includes EHU and services.

If neither of those suit you, you can park for free at the Oanes port where the ferry arrives. That is a good 20-30 min drive to reach Base Camp. As if the other alternative at Tau Marina. This is a super overnighter, which we used after the walk and costs 250NOK, which includes excellent showers, for free, EHU and services. You can also do washing here for 50NOK.

Top tips for Preikestolen when you’re not an athlete

This is no ordinary walk. This is a challenging hike and as such requires us to apply different rules. Firstly organising what you wear is imperative to allow comfort, protection and flexibility. Then it’s all about how you manage the demanding hike and yourself.

• First and foremost we cannot stress enough about the need to arrive early. And that means by at least 8am. The crowds have a real impact on the walk and your enjoyment so getting here early is really non negotiable. You also want to be able to park in Parking 1 and that means an early rise. Some people come for a late afternoon walk and during the summer that would be ok with the lighter nights. Just avoid 10-3 as this is when the main coach arrivals turn up.
  
• Wear walking shoes, boots or high end trail trainers for maximum protection. DO NOT wear standard trainers as they will not give you enough support.
  
• Check the weather forecast for the day of your walk and make sure you wear or pack layers that give you protection from the sun, wind or rain. The weather in the car park could be compeletly different to the Rock itself.
  
• Take a rucksack and not carrier bags or a handbag, as there times when you may need to use your hands as you climb some of the rocks and boulders. A rucksack is much more transportable.
  
• Pack water, snacks and plasters. Ensure you pack anything else you need given your ailments or body fitness. For example I took painkillers and anti-inflammatory creams for my knees in case they flared up.
  
• Make sure you have a charger for your phone. You will undoubtedly want to take photos and videos and to ensure that you can call out in case of emergency, a charger is essential especially if you have your GPS tracker on, which sucks the life out of a phone’s battery.
  
• Do NOT wear jeans as they are too restrictive for the terrain. Wear walking trousers or sports leggings that allow your legs and body to breathe. Wear layers and take a change of clothes or waterproofs if the forecast is showing unpredictable conditions.
  
• Dogs are allowed on the walk, although they all need to be on leads. Please ensure that your dog can cope with steep steps, a tough ascent and decline and are generally fit.
  
• There are no toilets en route to the Rock, so make sure you squeeze one out at Base Camp before you leave.
  
• This hike is all about pace not brawn. People will boast about doing it 3 hours. There’s nothing clever in that. This is not a race, it’s an experience. The walk demands your attention, not just on your steps. The views are incredible, the environment ever changing and this deserves to be acknowledged. Stop to take a breath, eat or drink something and make sure this is your journey. The 4hr guideline is just that. A guide. If you take 6, there’s nothing wrong with that. The only judge and jury is you. Keep your ego in check and listen to your body.
  
• Walk mindfully. If for no other reason than the path demands it. Unless you stop to take in the vista, there is little looking up. You must pay attention to your feet and what is coming up at ground level. Plus this hike really does ask you to be present. It’s a magnificent achievement and must never be underestimated. So be present, mindful and acknowledge this feat.
  
• I took my digital camera, which ended up going back with Myles. I found the walk so all encompassing, that there was little focus that good photography requires. So I would say leave it behind. There’s enough to carry without a big and heavy camera. Your phone camera or DJI will do just fine.
  
• Others will go at a different pace to you. If someone is coming up behind you, it is tempting to listen to your ego who wants to win at all costs. Let people pass. Remember the only competition is with yourself and the mountain. No one else matters.
  
• And of all the top tips I could give you, it is this one. Take your positivity with you. Whatever your fitness, or your belief in your fitness, it is only your self-imposed limitations that will stop you. For sure if you have mobility issues, a heart or lung complaint or any other health issue that physical exertion would hold you back from being safe, then do not undertake this hike. Otherwise, you do not have to be an athlete to do this walk. You can do it.
  
• If you feel you need to turn around at any point, feel proud for all you have achieved. This was is exhilarating although hard. So never feel defeated, just proud of what you did do.

And there we have it. Preikestolen in a nutshell. I hope that this guide has given you both an on the ground experience and a set of guidelines for making this iconic hike one you can build into your itinerary when you visit Norway. Wishing you luck. Please share your experiences in the comments below.