The Algarve is famous for its rocky coastline and pristine beaches. And yet, step inland just ten miles or so and you uncover a whole host of inland secrets. One of which is Monchique. In this blog, Uncovering Monchique; one of the Algarve’s inland secrets, we share our virginal visit and offer some thoughts about how to make the best of your visit here.

We’ve visited Portugal many times over the years, both with and without the motorhome. There’s something very special about this country and its preservation of authentic cultural and coastal uniqueness. And what a coastline it is too. Such a special place with the most incredible hikes and scenery that is pretty unique to southern Europe.

And yet, for us we have always loved inland in Portugal, and in fact inland of any country. There’s something to be said about its ability to shelter itself from the tourist devil that saturates so many coastal beauties. Inland gives us authentic rural life, culture, preservation of local history and practices, and almost a space where time stands still.

So when we had the opportunity to to explore Monchique when my mum and Bob came over to visit Portugal, we grabbed it with both hands. Why though have we waited this long to visit, you might well ask? Well it is an odd one. I had this strange notion in my head that it was inaccessible for us taking the motorhome. Where this train of thought was conceived I have no idea. After all we have travelled 95,000 miles over the nine years we have been full time on the road. We have navigated some of the most dangerous mountain routes in Europe with all but a modicum of anxiety. So why did I ever imagine that driving up into inland Algarve should pose us a problem? I find it so odd to examine what festers in our minds.

So imagine my excitement when we had the opportunity to visit when our folks came to visit Portugal for three weeks and we caught up with them for the weekend.

Putting Fears to Bed

So the first thing I have to state categorically, is that driving to Monchique in a motorhome is a piece of cake. Despite being in a car, a bit like cycling routes, I always look at topography to assess what it would be like for two wheels or four. Whilst the smaller streets I would be less comfortable driving Scoobie through, we did see motorhomes taking the steep road from the main square, so no issues there.

In terms of parking, and let’s face it, that is always the next question we ask ourselves as motorhomies, there are a few options. You can get a full list of options of course from Park4Night, although these are the ones that we can verify.

1. You can park for free, albeit it’s not very flat at this spot, which is just a five minute walk to the main square and a minute to the panorama overlooking the town. These are the coordinates (37.3164 -8.556103). I would suggest it’s ok for smaller motorhomes and campervans although can be busy with locals.
2. The second option that we spotted and is listed by Park4Night, is on the east side of the town with lovely views overlooking the mountains. You can see it in this image here in the distance. (37.320202, -8.55254)

History of Monchique

Sadly not too much is known about Monchique after the earthquake that flattened Lisbon in 1755, when all the historical documents were destroyed. What we do know is that the Roman’s are responsible for Monchique’s name (Mons cicus) and they established the Spa in the Caldas de Monchique, thanks to its healing properties, just 5 miles south of the town. And in fact, we must label Monchique appropriately, as for all intents and purposes, its size represents a town. However in 1773, King Jose II elevated the town’s status to a city. This brought huge prosperity to the area back in the day, although its fate has suffered at the hands of the coast’s draw, in the last few decades. Yet with a promotional focus on inland Algarve, tourism is returning thanks to its tranquility, charm and rural characteristics.

Monchique’s artistic charm

The very fact that Monchique is up in the mountains is one major draw to this fabulous little spot. The drive up from Portimǎo and Silves is very pretty. Winding roads glide you steadily upwards through forests of Cork oak. The vision of Monchique is not quite as I imagined it. I had something like Rochamador, France in my mind’s eye, which if you have ever been, you will understand exactly the vision that I had created. And yet, Monchique has its own charm, once you are within its centre.

Finding parking for the car was reasonably easy and with a short walk we had the Miradoura where views across the hills and to the city below gave us an incredible introduction to the area. The steep street took us to the bustling square, where even in January there was plenty of energy. The warmth of the winter sun brought locals out sipping coffee, as the mountain location belied the balmy temperatures.

One of the first things that strikes you about Monchique is its artwork and sculptures, giving the city a modern edge. The Miradoura is decorated with flower bed terraces. The mosaic walls in town provide a pretty backdrop to the square, and what look like newly added sculptures give the square an elegant and artistic feel.

Monchique’s old town

Our noses sniff out old town culture everywhere we go, as this is where you get the real sense of a place, its ghosts and it heritage. So it didn’t take long for us to find steps that took us up to the Church. It’s always a good starting point for anything old and authentic. The steps themselves were almost enough to satiate our ‘pretty as a picture’ desires, with walls adorned with the final hurrah from the Bougainvillea. Weathered steps gave us a feel for the soles that have trodden upon these cobbles in times gone past and the anticipation of what we would find at the top created the intrigue. The church gave us pretty views and plenty of cobbled alleyways to pull us towards Monchique’s historical past. Old buildings that no doubt date back only to the late 1700s, with either renovation or rebuild thanks to the devastation of the earthquake. Still, we must remind ourselves that that is still nearly 250 years ago.

Old houses precariously built upon the slopes of Monchique’s hilltop certainly gave us the old town feel we were looking for. Winding steps, steep paths navigated around the myriad of alleyways that each, no doubt held a little historical secret that we may never know. Full of character, hidden secrets and mountain village charm, Monchique’s inner core old town was just fabulous.

Nossa de Senhora do Desterro Convent

Encouraged on by the brown signs for the Convent, we took our leave of mum and Bob and heading further up the mountain towards the oldest buildings in the city, taking what was obviously once a grand pathway up to the building.

The Convent de Nossa Senhora do Desterro is of 16th Century origin with a legacy and mystery surrounding it. It is thought, by some, that the Convent was built by a rescued sailor who said he would build a church on the first piece of land he saw after his rescue from perilous seas. However it came to be, built in 1631, the Convent has its own sad tale as not only did the 1755 earthquake begin its demise, it was sold at auction in 1842 before it became a refuge for the homeless of the area.

By 1911, the Convent was crumbling and yet today, if you take the lung-busting hike up through the forests, you will be greeted by Senhor Vidaúl, who has called this place his home for the last 50 years. His family became destitute and moved into the refuge where, together with others, they made the best of the land around and the shelter to raise their family. Whilst his parents have long since died and his sister moved away, his brother still visits to help him tend the land. Senhor Vidhaúl lives a frugal and simple life and he invites you into his home to explore this ruined Church. As you step cautiously over the fallen rocks, it made me wonder how he can live in such dangerous surroundings, although this is all he has and probably all he needs. The courtyard is where his chickens live and the darkened rooms of the cloisters is where he calls his humble abode. It is said that thanks to his presence at the Convent, the building was saved from the ravaging wild fires that spread through here in 2018. How one man can keep yesterday, today and tomorrow together just by his presence is endearing.

The crumbling building would, if in the UK be boarded up with no entry signs and yet, if Senhor Vidhaúl can live here, then surely a visit to this former religious sanctuary is possible for us intrepid explorers. The old alter may be a shadow of its former self, although with the decorations that attempt to hold onto a time gone by, you can still sense its purpose. Old tiles still hold their grip to the walls of the annex, whilst the ceiling in one part of the Convent ornately asserts its hold on the past.

A small donation to Senhor Vidaúl is always appreciated to help him live the best life he can in his simple surroundings. And don’t get me wrong, the hike up is a stretch, although it is worth every minute and each breath to step back in time. If you want to read more, this blog was really interesting as I researched more about this fascinating piece of history.

Getting to, from and around Monchique

If you love walking, history, people watching and local crafts, then Monchique really does deliver on so many levels. The hiking trails around the forests above the city have endless possibilities. The cafés and restaurants profuse and a few local artesian shops can just tempt you for a while.

We took the road up from the A22 (which is now a free Toll road) at Junction 5, up past Silves and on into the mountains. On our return back to Vilamoura, we took the alternative route, which wove us through the mountains ridges across the most stunning countryside on the N267. We were lucky if we passed half a dozen cars. It’s a perfect road for motorhomes and if you are really feeling energetic, great for cyclists too.

So is Monchique, in Portugal’s inland Algarve region worth a visit? Yes, is my resounding answer. There is a really nice half day visit here and longer if you want to do some of the longer hikes in the area. It is safe and more than doable in a motorhome and I would be happy to go there again in Scoobie. With its art, old town charm, tranquility away from the busy coast, Monchique is a class act that is on our ‘thoroughly enjoyed’ list.

/K