An epic road-trip around Iceland

the motoroamers

An epic road-trip around Iceland

An epic road-trip around Iceland will leave you breathless, heart filled and wanting more. Yet if you want to uncover Iceland’s magic and you don’t know where to start, why not call in the help of the experts at Discover the World. This is what we did with a small Schengen window of 25 days, where we knew taking our van across was untenable. In this blog we share our Icelandic adventures and our epic road-trip, in the hope that perhaps it will influence you too to place Iceland firmly on your ‘Wish List’.

The Black Sand beach at Rynissfalja on the South Coast

Iceland is the most incredible country, and of all the places that we have travelled to in our lifetime, it has created the most evocative and impactful memories. NZ was great, Norway stunning, although there’s something about the land of fire and ice, that is far more raw, vast and exposing of human fragility. Iceland is not just a holiday, it is an experience, the nature of which will touch your heart and reach down into your soul to remind you of the planet’s ferocity and vulnerability beneath the surface. Like an iceberg, what we see of our world is just 10% of what is actually happening beneath our feet. A visit to Iceland will leave your mind reeling over what we take for granted in our day to day lives, and leaves you with a profound sense humility. A country that challenges your adjectives with a landscape that often leaves you spellbound and breathless, such is its infinite allure.

Whilst a country that could fit into the size of Hungary, yet only has the population of Cardiff, Iceland holds many mind-blowing travel opportunities. Whether you are thinking of a short trip to cut your teeth or whether you want to go for longer to leave a bit of yourselves behind, there is a bit of planning required. We would normally do the planning ourselves as we mostly do with our nomadic travels, although on this occasion, with just a small window and unknown distances, we employed the skills of Discover the World who have experts with local knowledge who would breathe life into our trip. It would be a completely different style of travel for us as a fly-drive with hotels, although it felt right to do it this way and to see it as a busman’s holiday, researching Iceland’s van life reality whilst we were there.

Why choose Discover the World, I hear you ask?

I first came across this tailored and independent travel agency when researching our Canada trip. They had produced a mighty fine ebook that hooked me in. I am an avid ebook creator for our travels, so I understand the creativity and time they take to create. So instantly I felt a connection with the company. Then quite out of the blue, one sleepless night I saw an email from their mailing list, offering a guide to Iceland and that was it. We were off, in an instant. Within a couple of weeks of chatting to Ben, one of their Iceland experts, we had a 25 day trip organised, tailored to our desires, schedule and travel style. We were looking for off the beaten track Iceland, places that were not dominated by the tour buses, that I myself had taken on my first trip back in the winter of 2024. We wanted unique hotel experiences, a personalised trip and someone to handle the mapping of our adventure, as ignorance is a dangerous thing in the travel world. Especially when our window of travel was so limited.

We started the process at the end of March and by the last week in May we were flying off. Slick efficiency, all the stress of bookings taken away, and hey presto an epic road-trip around Iceland was under way. And excited doesn’t even come close. Having visited Iceland before I knew a little of what was coming. Yet I was so curious to explore more of the island, and see it dressed in a whole new, late spring clothing.

An epic road-trip around Iceland – our route

We travelled around Iceland in a clockwise direction, after flying into Keflavik International Airport in the south west of the country. A full and interactive map of our route, you can find below. Just click for a fully downloadable map with hotels, campsites, and highlights to see along the way. The weather did hamper some of our adventures, although it has left us plenty to see when we come back next time. Now let’s break this alluring island into a few parts to share just a little of its mesmerising appeal.

1. Reykjavik – The world’s most northerly capital.

Our first stop was Reykjavik for a night. Exploring the world’s most northern capital was fun for a couple of hours. There’s so much to see here, and unlike so many other capitals we have visited, Reykjavik is compact, informal and quiet. Despite 2/3rds of Iceland’s population living in the city, you wouldn’t really know it. Unlike the claustrophobic feel of London or Paris, there’s a gentle vibe here. Whether you are here for a short break or as part of a longer tour, there are Whale Watching trips, museums, fabulous restaurants and great cafés that give you access to the energy of this gentle and unassuming city, that will surprise you.

2. Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Our epic-road trip around Iceland truly started after we left the city limits. Heading two and a half hours north west, we left the placid world of the capital and off into the wilderness where we hoped to meet, face to face, Iceland’s beating heart. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is known as Iceland in miniature and you quickly see why. The peninsula brings together a taster of all the dramatic landscape that we would come to adore. It brought together ancient lava fields, a volcano, coastal basalt cliffs, snowy mountain passes, shipwrecks, dormant volcanic craters, waterfalls and Sagas that tell of Icelandic legends. It is a fabulous region that so many miss on their short visits to Iceland. Although it is certainly doable in city break and we would highly recommend it. For a detailed account of our three days on this unbelievable stretch of land, check out our blog here. Wild, remote, enigmatic and heart-stopping, Snæfellsnes is an absolute must.

3. Westfjordlands – an epic drive into the wilderness

After a soothing ferry ride across the Breidsfjordur fjord we arrived in the Westfjordlands, which with its remoteness, is one of the country’s least visited areas. We chose to access it via the 40 mile wide fjord mouth and with its bay of a thousand islands, it is possibly one of the prettiest ferry rides you will take. As you leave the Snæfellsnes mountain skyline behind, eager eyes are peeled for whales and dolphins who call this deep fjord home. Gannets glide on the thermals behind you and a new adventure awaits your disembarkation. A quick stop at the quaint Flately island, with its tiny fishing community offers a quick glimpse into life in the bay with its rich and protected waters. The amount of ice crates we picked up from the fishermen there was staggering.

Once you land on the Westfjordlands, a dramatic change in scenery welcomes you. Shrubs, trees and pastures with grazing sheep unfold before your eyes, providing a starkly different vista to the volcanic Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The land formation goes back millions of years here, when active volcanos shaped the basalt lava fields, which were consequently carved by the Ice Age glaciers, creating Iceland’s fjords. Akin to Norway, these breathtaking fingers jump out from the tourist brochure image before you, as you wind your way down the snaking roads to the shore. Roads that hug the contours of the mountain sides induce feelings like a rollercoaster ride. Small fishing communities perch on the fjord edges, landing their daily ocean fare despite the adversity of the Icelandic weather. It’s a unique world that so many visitors to Iceland just don’t get to see. Remote, wild, tranquil, full of seafarers’ tales and mountain folk who called this place home.

The fjordlands offer breathtaking scenery and challenging drives, especially for anyone with vertigo or acrophobia. Gravel routes link fjord fingers with these small communities, where less investment in the infrastructure certainly makes this part of Iceland a more adventurous drive. As we drove, with half a mind of how it would be for our motorhome, we soon drew the conclusion, that for now, the Westfjordlands would not be great for him nor a caravan. Campervans would be fine with careful and slow driving.

We came to the aid of a caravaner who had got stuck on a gravel hill and who had the intention of going through the mountains on one of Iceland’s most tricky, gravel roads. Whilst I don’t know how her story unfolded, I don’t think it would have ended well, based on our experiences in a car. I am positive however, that with the work that is under way, give the Westfjordlands 3-5 years, then things will have improved significantly.

The peace in this north western part of the island feels like a totally different world. Here you will see little traffic, few people, a handful of fishing communities and very few tourists. On ocassion you might see a cruise liner dock at Isafjordur with a handful of coaches heading out to Dynjandi’s seven waterfalls. Otherwise you and the silence are all that exist here.

If I was to choose my favourite parts of this magical corner of Iceland, it would be my sighting of puffins (in spite of the treacherous road we drove to reach them) and the incredible Tjöruhusið restaurant at Isafjordur. If you like fish, then this is a must visit restaurant where you will be entertained as well as fed by the family. Also you must check out the aerial view of Isafjordur just a 10 minute walk from the main town. A short drive back through the tunnel linking the fjords, you will find the charming Flateryi village with Iceland’s oldest Bookstore, run by the same family for over a century. Also the ancient Viking fisherman’s hut is a must at the quaint village of Suðureyri.

4. The Arctic Coast Way – North Iceland

Our epic road-trip around Iceland continues, after the highs and wows of the Westfjordlands. And it was hard to imagine the scenery getting any better. Although better it did. Well different is perhaps a better description.

The Arctic Coastal Way is a relatively new driving route for Iceland. Obviously it has always been there, although in terms of it being a specific road-trip, it was only christened in 2019. It offers 560 miles of remote northern coastline, teasing us by being within touching distance of the Arctic Circle itself. Whilst we didn’t drive it all, as it can take up to 12 days to do this bit alone, (and a freak snow storm hit whilst we were there), we did divert onto it occasionally from our circular Ring Road. With six peninsula and six islands, this wild route continued to delight these intrepid adventure seekers, offering us some challenging roads, stunning scenery and a peak into Iceland’s historical roots. Here are our highlights of this unique gem in Iceland’s treasure trove.

  • Staying at Laugarbakki in the old school house, we entered the territory of the Seal. With look out points around the Vatnsnes peninsula if you time your visit outside of nesting season for the eider ducks, you will be able to see colonies of seals close up. However, our visit was in the midst of the season. So, instead, we decided just to head of to the Black Rock at Hvitserkur to the left of the peninsula. There is an aerial view point from a short walk along the cliff top from the car park. Or you can follow the track down to the shore and walk along the beach, accompanied by inquisitive seals. This gives you a more up close and personal perspective of the Black Rock, which with the right lighting, will give you amazing images. The route here will take around 45 minutes and is on a gravel track, which actually was a better quality than many we had driven. There is plenty of parking for campers and motorhomes.
  • Along from Laugarbakki on Route 1 is a must see cultural spot. Þrístapar (the Triple Hillocks) is the site of Iceland’s last beheading. It might sound like a gory place to visit, although as cultural places go, this one transports you back to January 1830, as you follow in the footsteps of Agnes and Fríðrik. They were sentenced to death after allegedly murdering their farm boss Natan two years prior. After their execution, their two heads were put on a stick as an example to others. The area has been immortalised sensitively with bronze plaques carrying you along side Agnes’ story. It’s a sobering place that holds significance in Iceland’s cultural history.
  • Glaumbær Turf Farm and Museum is just off the Route 1 and is not to be missed. Giving you a glimpse of rural life back in the 19th century, for a 2000ISK pp entry fee (£12) you walk into a world that is dominated by simplicity and survival from the time of Iceland’s early settlers in 900AD. The present buildings vary in age, although are thought to be over 150 years old. Walking into these intricately constructed turf houses, you are immediately struck by how warm it is inside. The earth has a fascinating ability to hold heat and the herringbone formation of the sods make for a safe and cosy home. We felt enriched visiting these incredible homes that provided shelter for generations of Icelanders and as we walked in their footprints, it felt incredibly humbling.
  • Siglofjordur, was perhaps one of our top 5 highlights from our trip. This was in part because of the outstanding Silgo Hotel run by KeaHotels. This community was very special and with its herring era fishing history, 100 years of fish-meal and oil processing sit at the heart of this remote and most northerly village in Iceland. It really has a place in our hearts and we would definitely return here in spite of the somewhat hairy ride around the mountains. The Tjalda campsite, right behind the hotel looks amazing.
  • Whilst locked in at the north’s capital Akureyri thanks to a freak snow storm that last five days, we took ourselves off to the Forest Lagoon hot springs. Springs like this appear all over the island, the Blue Lagoon and Sky Lagoon near Reykjavik being the most famous. This was a lovely retreat and respite from the frustration of not being able to travel.
  • Lake Mývatn is one of the most mesmerising places on earth. The number of places to explore around the lake are so numerous, and again with weather restrictions, we weren’t able to see them all. Although Goðafoss waterfall is a must en route to the lake from Akureyri. Hverir geothermal park is like being on Mars, as mud pools bubble like a cauldron and stone fumaroles steam like a snorting dragon. You pay 1000ISK (£6) for parking, although entry to the park is free. Grjótagjá is another worthy visit, where you witness the deep blue underground thermal pool and the tectonic plates from the mid-Atlantic Ridge pulling apart from each other. With steam escaping from the ridge with a ghostly air, it serves as a poignant reminder of how fragile our planet is. The lava fields at Dimmuborgir are another incredible sight. To walk amongst a lava collection that is over 2000 years old, is a surreal moment. We visited during in the aftermath of our storm, so we had a pretty unique experience as we trod upon the virgin snow. This venerable place certainly demands our respect.
Black Rock, iconic Iceland Artic coastal Way

5. Eastfjordlands

There are so many areas of Iceland that have a feeling of remoteness, where the only presence of life is that of the hardy locals who call it home. Heading east certainly gives that feeling of remoteness being as far from the graceful buzz of Reykjavik as you can get. Yet do not underestimate this sunrise sector of the island, as it holds its own with the dominance of a Viking leader. With its own unique attractions, Eastfjordlands, for those who venture here, will ignite the imaginations of naturalists, painters, geologists and photographers. With summer puffins, volcanic lakes, forests, reindeer and staggeringly beautiful scenery, a base at Eglisstadir gives easy access to the well guarded secrets of this joyful region.

One of the prettiest villages we came across in Iceland, Seydisfjordur is charm personified. Characterful colonial houses fringe the fjord, which despite its Denmark to Iceland ferry terminal, manages to emanate a fairytale air.

As Route 1 winds around each of the fjord fingers, small fishing communities cling to the tiny strips of land that line the shores of these deep crevices. With French and German influences here, each corner offers a different village, a different personality and a magnificent panoramic view from your vehicle window. With gasps of wonderment, the towering mountain giants dominate the canvas in front of you. A bleakness fuses with beauty that demands you to fall under its spell in a way that feels different to the Westfjordlands. It’s hard to put my finger on quite what it is, although it has a hidden ingredient that makes it distinct.

6. The coastline heading south

With all too little time in the East, our epic road-trip around Iceland continued with a massive trek south. In an ideal world, we would have split our 170 mile drive into two days, such was the profound beauty of this journey. We were incredulous over the constant changing scenery and how, around every contour of this mesmerising landscape even greater expletives escaped from our mouths.

It all started with a somewhat hairy mountain pass, which was on one our least favourite gravel tracks. However it saved us over an hour from going on Route 1 that hugged the fjord edges. It was certainly an interesting drive and we’re not sure if we would have taken the motorhome this direction. We decided to pepper our day with regular stops and shared driving, mostly so I could hang out of the window to capture these magnificent views. Our first stop was the charming village of Djúpivogur with its 19th century buildings, quaint fishing harbour and its granite eggs. Yes, 32 of them stand proudly as a symbol of Djúpivogur’s association with nature and represent the seabirds that surround the bay. It is a sight to see for sure.

After that, view after view unfolded before our eyes; one of which was the most puzzling of all. A steaming beach. We couldn’t decide whether it was the wind playing tricks with us, or perhaps it was yet more evidence of Iceland’s geothermal activity. And given that we were on the fringes of the highly volcanic Vatnajökul Glacier and National Park, our deduction was right. How unique. How incredibly special. Yet more was to impress us, as we turned the corner to the sight of a glacier tongue creeping through a mountain hollow. It was as though we had crossed through into Narnia without the wardrobe doors. Pure white geological masterpieces of compacted ice and snow, thousands of years old right danced before us, within touching distance it seemed. Höfn was a fabulous place to just mindfully sit and reflect upon the vision before us. And we’re not just talking one glacier. The south is littered with these incredible forces of nature.

Of all our epic road-trip drives around Iceland, this was the best by far. And I say this, not out of any sense of competition, rather as a need to elevate this particular part of Iceland to the podium of excellence. And it wears its badge of honour so incredibly well. I really don’t think my pictures do it justice.

7. Jökusárlon Glacier Lagoon region

With a second day of very welcome blazing sunshine, we excitedly prepared for our trip on the Jökusárlon Glacier Lagoon and to explore the surrounding area.

This is with grateful thanks to the team at Discover the World who gifted us this trip.

And what an experience it would be. Parking up at the fee paying car park, we grabbed our tickets, donned a suit fit for an astronaut and headed out for our boat. There are two lagoon options. One is the amphibious boat that takes you on a 30 minute tour of the icebergs. And ours, which was a 75 minute tour of the entire lagoon and its 10 sq miles in length. This is the better of the two options as it goes right up to the glacier front and, if you’re lucky, you may see a calving iceberg, which is such a sensual experience. First you hear it as it shears from its mother station, crashing into the watery lagoon below. Then you witness the most incredible light show as the iceberg morphs colour from white to light blue, azure and then the deepest ocean blue, I have ever seen. And finally, this unique event hits you right in the stomach, deep in your soul as you realise what you have just witnessed. It was a tearful moment for me as the bitter sweet calving is a combined birth and death, showing just how the glacier’s retreat is unfolding.

If you are really lucky, there is a Lagoon Trio. The calving is one, the basking iceberg seals is another and finally a turning iceberg will complete your high-octane trip. When an iceberg becomes unstable through its melting, then it will tip and turn, revealing a whole new set of colours that defy any artist’s palette. Seeing nature in motion is an incredible thing and we felt beautifully overwhelmed by the serenity of our excursion, that was as profound a moment as we could imagine.

And if that isn’t enough for the senses, then a drive across the bridge to capture the iceberg break offs on Diamond Beach is something else again. Having seen the passage of calving, tipping, floating to beaching, the whole encounter brought out a parental sensation for me. There was a real sadness that once so mighty, this fabric of the glacier world has finally surrendered to the sea. And yet, all water evaporates, forms clouds, rain and snow and so, perhaps there is a modicum of hope in each droplet from these impressive ice formations. Why not check out our video below that features this impressive lagoon.

8. South Coast beauties on our Epic Road-trip around Iceland

The south coast is the most touristy part of Iceland, aside of the Golden Circle. And with that comes an increase in traffic, coach tours and people. Not our favourite combination, although such is Iceland’s allure, this is the price it, and we must pay. However, it is a draw for visitors for good reason. Aside of the 20 miles of desert-style alluvial planes that are in name as in nature, the south coast has some incredible scenery to share with our eager eyes.

Ancient turf churches, an off the beaten track and crowdless glacier that we could almost touch at Svinafjellsjökull, and the world’s largest lava field at Eldhruan. In between those, we embraced deep gorges carved through the earth’s core, lupin covered mountainsides, the quintessential church at Vik with its black sand beach and Iceland’s most voluminous waterfall. And talking of waterfalls, two of Iceland’s most popular waterfalls, fed sadly by shockingly bad weather during our visit, really are gargantuan in stature and must sees. Both of these I visited on my winter trip earlier in 2024 and I was fascinated to see how they looked without the snow. And I wasn’t disappointed. Skógafoss and Seljalandfoss have hugely different personalities. The former gives you the chance, via 500 steps to see the waterfall from the point of its cascade. Whilst Seljalandfoss during the summer allows you to walk behind it, which is super cool. Just a 5 minute walk, you can also trek through a small gorge and find the hidden waterfall; both giving some wow moments. And finally, if you want to experience Iceland’s most voluminous waterfall, without any crowds at all then head to Urriðafoss, just a few minutes from Selfoss.

9. Golden Circle – What a finale

Our final few days, with brighter skies, gave us the perfect opportunity to explore what would be a stunning crescendo to our epic road-trip around Iceland. We had the privilege to walk the rim and core of a dormant volcanic crater at Kerið, stand a few feet away from the gushing Golden Waterfall at Gullfoss, hear the voices of the earth’s core at Geysir and feel the force of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge’s two tectonic plates tearing apart, quite literally at the seams at Thingvellir National Park. We could not have asked for more on our last day than being in the midst of the earth’s most powerful inner core mechanics.

The thing we love most about Iceland, is how undeniably magic it is to feel force of the planet´s very soul. Nowhere else in the world is it as fragile, vulnerable, dominant and enigmatic than here. And our final day truly gave us the greatest show on earth.

Uncovering the magic of Iceland – our lessons

It was fabulous to have someone else organise our trip. As the main planner in our partnership, the responsibility can often weigh heavy as I focus on our week by week, month by month and sometimes our year to year plans. Especially these days, with a more intense focus on our Schengen allowance. So, I bet you can imagine how luxurious it was for me to have someone else to take the reins. Not least when a freak storm stymied our travels, creating a trail of cancellations. To have a team to lean into when this hit us, was reassuring and so much less stressful. And for that I am truly grateful.

As a different type of travel experience, I was interested to see how things would pan out and how the schedule over 25 days would feel for us. It has certainly taught us a lot and we have shared our reflections here.

  • As an introduction to Iceland or if your time is limited, having an agency like Discover the World to organise the details is fabulous. With less time restrictions, I would have felt much more comfortable planning the trip myself. The added benefit of a third party is that in unforeseen scenarios like our storm, or a volcano eruption, having someone co-ordinating bookings and cancellations is priceless.
  • We would love to have taken our motorhome over. Yet seeing some of the off the beaten track roads, on reflection our motorhome’s rear end would have not survived. I think in five year’s time Iceland’s wildnerness infrastructure will be significantly different. We would however hire a motorhome next time. There are so many companies to choose from, and of course Discover the World offer camper hire as well as fly-drive options.
  • Iceland’s roads, off Route 1, are unlike any we have driven in our 9 years fulltiming. They are the closest thing to a rollercoaster you can imagine. Roads are built to mould into the contours of the land, so there are regular blind summits without knowing where the road will go when you get there. It takes some getting used to. I must stress however that the main circular Route 1 is of very good quality on the whole so if you stick to that you will encounter no problems. It’s only if you want to go off the tourist route that roads become a little more interesting.
  • There are so many campsites on Iceland, to our surprise. Almost every village has at least one campsite that generally seem to comply to a Government standard. They average around £25 for a van plus 2 with electricity as extra. Which we didn’t think was too bad.
  • Iceland’s weather is unpredictable, so whatever season you go, be prepared for every season, often in one day. We had a freak 5 day snow storm that rendered the north and east of the country helpless. Roads were closed, snow ploughs had been derailed and trips were cancelled left, right and centre. Yet four days later, we were walking around in t-shirts. Go figure.
  • If you fly with Icelandair, they have a strict policy of only one bag per person up to 23kg. We almost came unstuck.
  • Hired campervans/motorhomes are not allowed to travel when the winds exceed 15miles per second, which converts to 33mph.
  • Hotel quality is generally excellent (bar a few that did not make our grade). Iceland is really ramping up their efforts on the tourism front. Over the last 5-10 years, Iceland’s popularity has soared. Just from 2022, tourism has rocketed 146% from the previous year. This has meant that hotels have had to raise their game. Most have risen to the challenge well. Particular mention must go to 18 strong Fosshotels each of which are outstanding. We particularly loved the Kea Group’s Siglo Hotel in the north of the island and the independent Lake Hotel in Eglisstadir on the east fjords.
  • If you choose a fly-drive option to uncover Iceland’s magic, then make sure you book a robust manual car and not one with a low profile. Some of the gravel roads in the more remote regions of the country are unforgiving, and a sturdy set of wheels is essential to your well-being.
  • Iceland is expensive, there’s no hiding it. On reflection we think it would work out more expensive than our Norway trip. Whilst diesel is not that much more expensive than France, food and drink is definitely eye-wateringly pricey. Although don’t come with too restrictive a budget, as this will be a trip of a life-time.
  • Iceland is one of the most volatile and volcanic regions of the world and with 32 active volcanoes and up to 100 earthquakes a day, the earth is vibrating constantly. So be mindful of what is happening when you visit. Check out this website for more info.
  • And finally. We travelled in a clockwise direction. Next time we would travel anticlockwise. There are some amazing sights to see all over the island, although for us, finishing on the Westfjordlands and Snæfellsnes would have been our personal preference, having encompassed the whole island.

A map of Iceland

Iceland conclusions

How do I conclude my journal about Iceland?

If you’ve reached this point of the blog, and well done for sticking with me, then you’ll perhaps understand my uncertainty about how to draw this epic road-trip around Iceland to a close. With all that I have served up for you to feast upon, doing a summary seems somehow futile. What I will say, is that Iceland has been one of our more profound travel explorations. Poland was the other, although more for humanitarian reasons than the geological ones from Iceland.

I read recently that Iceland is a place where you will meet yourself and this feels so true. Such is the wonder and uniqueness of this earth-breathing island that it demands you to reflect on your place in the world. As the planet’s core surfaces to speak directly to each and everyone of us, it invites you to examine life, its mysteries and yourself. That is the power of Iceland’s alluring beauty. Every sense will experience it, every fibre of your body will feel it and it is one experience that will be carved into your memory, forever.

It was great to have the guys at Discover the World bring together our trip. They give us the chance to move around within the safety of their organisation without any pressure of the detailed arrangements. What a fabulous adventure they introduced us to and one that we fully intend to repeat in the not too distant future.


Published: July 03, 2024
Category: Iceland | Travel

1 Comment

  1. Anna i Portugal

    So much you have experienced! Iceland has always been on my list and of course this post makes me more eager to go. Thank you for information and mostly, all beautiful images! <3


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