How to See Both Sides of Polignano a Mare

How to See Both Sides of Polignano a Mare

Most people photograph Polignano a Mare in Southern Italy from the famous bridge — but the real magic happens when you step onto a boat and look back.

Setting the context for our visit to Polignano

There are two important factors I need to share for the context to this post on Polignano.

The first needs you to travel briefly back in time. Back to 2016. This is when we first hit the road for our infamous ‘gap year’ that turned into forever. At the time, I did a ton of research looking for must see destinations. Pins appeared all over Europe. One of which was a world-famous restaurant, in a cave, in southern Italy.

A pin, that over time fell off the radar, physically and mentally. Roll on to 2026, and last week this cave restaurant popped back into my mind. Hitting Google my inner sleuth set about locating it. Boom! There it was – Polignano a Mare. Just an hour down the road. I headed for it like a homing pigeon.

The second factor is that I am two months into healing a broken ankle. Our travel spirits have, as you can imagine been severely tested. So I was focused on finding a way to see this beautiful town if not explore it in the way we would normally. And it took just a mere few hours to think outside the box and come up with a solution.

With that context set, we can now uncover how to see both sides of the charming coastal town of Polignano a Mare.

Introducing Polignano a Mare

Polignano offers charm and drama all in the same package. With its coastal location perched on top of a limestone cliff overlooking the sparkling seas of the Adriatic Sea, that could be reason enough to visit.

Add to that history, legend and a famous son that will have you singing all day, and you have plenty to satiate your wanderlust spirit.

Polignano is thought to date back to 4th century BC with rumours that Julius Caeser was the father of this settlement. With its coastal dominance it soon became an enviable trading post which sealed its evolution.

It was the Normans in the 11th century that took Polignano to the next level, with the introduction to the Olive industry. An historical mark that still remains on the landscape today and still adds significant income to the area.

It is perhaps though the dramatic coastline that offers explorers the greatest draw. The limestone cliffs that feature along this coast are Italy’s best example of karst geology. Whether that matters to you or not, you will be impressed with the rock formations that extend out into the azure seas. Peninsula of limestone pavements lure the adventurous, stepping carefully across rocks that can tell their own stories, if we stop a while.

Caves that can only be seen from the ocean, formed thousands of years ago are still eroding to dangerous levels. So much so that they are being reinforced with concrete blocks. Access to some caves is no longer permitted by the boats that bomb along the coast. And the staircases that once defined the uniqueness of Polignano, now shut for good. You can still see them cut into the 20ft cliffs, but now just ghosts of a time gone before.

This landscape was, and still is to this day, shaped by the uplifting tectonic plate that Polignano sits upon. And if that subterranean influence wasn’t enough, the combination of the coastal erosion has an additional impact, meaning that Polignano is constantly morphing. We may not see it, but it is there – subtly carving the town’s identity.

Three ways to explore all corners of Polignano

To truly experience Polignano a Mare, there are three ways to experience it soulfully and completely.

By sea with one of the boat tours available.
Via one of the town’s electric Tuk Tuks.
On foot using a section of the ancient Via Francigena route.

Each have their own magic as you immerse yourself in the culture, history and landscape that define this coastal town.

1. Polignano by sea

We arrived in Italy in April 2026 carrying an injury. I broke my ankle whilst in Morocco and so have been nurturing it with careful healing. That has meant very limited mobility – for us both. So by the time we reached Polignano I was at least able to walk a little way with a stick. However, discernment is the mother of well being.

With a campsite secured at the amazing Shrangri-La olive farm, just five minutes away, we created space for opportunity to visit. I knew a walking tour was out of the question. But a boat trip. Now that was definitely viable. Having done a risk assessment we decided that this would be a real treat for us both.

Picking up our boat from Cala Ponte Marina to the north of the town, we invested £62 for the two of us – secured with an online booking the day before. It was a two hour trip with Mammamia Boat Experience. With a great captain who took care of everyone’s needs, we had music to entertain us, Prosecco and plenty of story telling. With reasonably kind seas, we bobbed around this famous coastline, entering four of the twenty one caves along this coast, feeling in an instant their depth and inner beauty. These little speed boats hold up to 12 people and can easily access the caves you are allowed to enter.

The boat gives you a chance to see a different angle to Polignano’s iconic features;

Swallow cave – Grotta delle Rondinelle
Lama Monachile and the Diving area
Domenico Modungo statue
Grotta Palazzese and its cave restaurant and 5* hotel
Scoglio dell’Eremita island
The Roofless Cave – Grotta Stampagnata
Cala Sala
Grotto del Pozzo Vivo

We love how a boat trip gives you a totally different perspective. There’s something quite special about having such an intimate view that allows you to almost touch what landlubbers can only ever stand on. So if you have sea legs, this is a good value option for witnessing this ancient town with thousands of years history beneath its rocky outcrops.

Of course, there is a downside to this form of transport. These boats, and there are plenty of them peppering the ocean, have a contribution to the erosion – albeit it small – it does exist. We have to hope that the role they play is minimal in comparison to Mother Nature’s wrath.

But for us, the boat gave me a chance to experience of Polignano in a way that immobility doesn’t allow. And for that I am completely grateful.

And what of the Grotta Palazzese restaurant pictured above?

Starting at €250 pp without drinks, reaching €800 pp for a meal experience, we decided to give it a miss. In our world, no meal is ever worth that amount of money, however amazing the setting is. But to see it from the water was impressive in its own way.

2. Polignano via Tuk Tuk

Whether you are just getting off a boat trip, at the train station or at the main square of the old town, Polignano has the most brilliant way to get about. Electric Tuk Tuk.

These little bikes are fabulous and have the ability to not only bomb between the Marina and the old town, they can get down the small streets in a way larger taxi’s cannot. Plus it is the greatest of fun. I love that they are kind to the environment and even if your driver only speaks Italian, they all have the facility to use Google Translate, allowing you to learn about the town highlights in a way walking alone will not.

There are different tours you can take that range from 30 minutes, taking in the main Polignano highlights. Or you can extend that to 40 minutes, 60 and a half day if you wish. This takes you slightly further to the San Vetto, which looks lovely as you can see from the two pictures below – just a 10 minute drive away. The prices start at €15 pp. If you want to arrange a Tuk Tuk from the Marina it will cost you €10 and if you speak to any of the full ones, they will come back for you and you wait no longer than 10 minutes.

Jaco, our driver was great. He collected us from the main Domienico Modugno square and we hurtled through the narrow streets with the speed of a frustrated race horse. Not before he had regaled us with stories of Domenico who is son of Polignano. Famed for his award winning song Voltare – (Nel blu dipinto di blu). It charted in Sept 1958 & peaked at number 10. The song was the first of two UK charting songs for Italian Domenico Modungo. This third place 1958 Eurovision song contest song peaked at 1 in the USA and is a classic to this day. Later in his career he moved into politics as he focused on his passion for human rights following a stroke.

The monument dedicated to Domenico is in the main square of the old town from which a number of incredible viewpoints will give you a magnificent view along the coast. (40.997240, 17.217102)

Our next stop was the birth place for Domenico, which is down tiny lanes that with anything other than your feet or a Tuk Tuk, is virtually impossible. (40.992997, 17.220091)

Jaco whizzed us around the outskirts of the pedestrian old town, which with full mobility looked lovely to explore. Busy, but quaint. He gave us a quick stop off at another vista, that allowed you a small window to see the Palazzese Hotel and Cave restaurant. When I looked on line, the rooms were going for £1000 per night without breakfast. The rooms, however do look incredible, but not for that price. (40.996220, 17.221657)

Jaco was keen to show us one of his favourite spots – view across to the Isle of Eremita. Hermit Rock. (40.990953. 17.231816)

Legend has it that a missionary returning from the Holy Land sailed over to the island and made it home. He built a Trulli that was his home and his church. He remained there for 25 years. He never left the island.

In the 17th century, a chapel dedicated to San Antonio Abate was built on the rock. Later, in 1837, the island was used as a quarantine station during a cholera epidemic. Now this 30ft rock is a Nature Reserve that protects the rare Corso Seagull that calls the island home.

The view the land gave us compared to the sea, offers very different perspectives. One gives you an intimate feel for its isolation. Whilst the distant view shows you the old Trulli remains and the cross. The contexts are a very different experience. Jaco’s favourite shot is this one where you can se the island through the windows.

Our final stop on our 30 minute tour was Cala Sala. Being 4km south of the historic old town. This has a much more tranquil feel about it. Even from the boat we could instantly feel its privacy and authentic stillness. However, because of that it still appears on the tourist trail evidenced by the busy car park. The traditional boats that moor here are traditional fishing boats of the area and you will see these stranded on the pebble beach. There is one particular boat that is currently a Fisherman’s Library. And at Christmas the books are removed and it is turned into a Nativity scene.

The whole area has a very natural feel to it. Fields carved into squares divided by almost white limestone walls. Grey trulli grace the land, made with stone alone – no cement or mud is used in the construction. So quite a different type of trulli to Alberobello. It was a lovely part of our tour and despite not being able to make it down to the shore, this is the place I would come to stay longer and retreat from the crowds . (40.990572, 17.238006)

For our needs, the Tuk Tuk was a perfect way to see the highlights of Polignano. Whilst being reasonably immobile, it still gave me a precious insight into this charming town without the risk to my healing. And with commentary and cheerful guide, this was a perfect solution. We would suggest that if you want to follow this route you book a tour ahead of time. We used FLCETT who you can call on +39 3495693066.

3. Walking tour of Polignano

All that we have shown you via the Tuk Tuk can of course be explored on foot. From Cala Ponte Marina to – if you fancy it – Monopoli can be walked via the Via Francigene route.

As an aside, this is a 2000 mile pilgrim path that starts in Canterbury UK and goes through Europe to Rome, with a diversion through the Puglia countryside across to the east coast and all the way down to the heel of Italy. And so you can pick up this path as you explore this coastal region.

The walking path through the town looked great quality, and as you hug the coastline all the view points that we have already highlighted are there for you to capture. Of course the beauty of a walking tour is that you can take all day – stop for a coffee and lunch or grab a picnic. With plenty of panorama, this is a good day’s exploration, which of course could be balanced on a second day, if you have the luxury of the boat tour. In fact if you did an early morning or late evening tour you get the best of all worlds.

I would love to have walked the route – but next time.

And before we leave this lovely little sojourn at Polignano a Mare, it’s worth mentioning that there are a number of places to stay.

If like us you are in a campervan or motorhome, then there are a few options on Park4Night. There are a few free places in town where you can park during the day. We chose this one near Cala Ponte, which would be perfect if you are heading out of the boat. At Via San Vito you can park for free with gorgeous views to the sea. Although it says that it is daytime, we saw vans parked there late in the day – so assume that they stopped overnight. (40.99989, 17.20907) Park4Night marker #200762

Because we wanted to do a boat trip and potentially be out for most of the day, we chose the security of a campsite. There is only one in the area, that is just five minutes away from the Port. Shangri-la Garden is a fabulous family-run olive farm. There are 10 pitches of various shapes and sizes that suit vans up to 8m. Anything larger would struggle to access the site.

Laura runs the farm with her dad and partner and are so generous with everything. It is €25 per night. There is a washing machine for €3 per wash and if you need to, she will also drop you and collect you from the Train Station, town square or Marina. We so appreciated being in this little spot that has so much potential. Call Laura on +39 3772360108 to reserve a pitch. We absolutely loved it here.