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Experience Dubrovnik 4 ways

by Karen Davies | Jan 9, 2023 | Croatia, Travel Blog

“If you want to see Heaven on Earth come to Dubrovnik.”

George Bernard Shaw

As a full-time travellers since March 2016, I’ve learnt many things from my Travel teacher. One big lesson is being honest about what we experience on the road; for better or for worse. We are privileged to be able to explore the world so intimately and we have come to appreciate all faces that Travel reveals. So let me say it out loud; we are not great city fans. As introverts we find their size overwhelming, their structure claustrophobic and their presence often intimidating. We though, at the same time, accept that city life draws its own unique perspective. And this, in its own right needs to be relished alongside the things that we love most about our explorations.

So when the prospect of a visit to Croatia’s southern city Dubrovnik teetered on the horizon, we faced it with inevitability. Of course we would go, it is iconic and it is one of those places that needs to be ticked off the list, given its reputation for being one of the finest cities in the world. It certainly wasn’t though on my Bucket List, like our visit to Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina had been. Yet I have learnt to face all my adventures with a sense of curiosity with which comes a humility for all things. And that is how I embrace cityscape visits these days.

With a little research it became clear that there were a number of ways to experience Dubrovnik. I wanted to be sure that if this was a ‘one and only’ visit, to make it as 3D as possible. I realised that it would be an investment as, with most cities, a trip to their inner sanctums brings with it a price tag. We are tourists after all. There was though something about Dubrovnik that subtly gave me permission to make that investment, given all that the country and her neighbours have endured over the last thirty years. Of all places in which I am happy to spend my hard-earned cash, it would be in these western Balkan lands.

I googled Dubrovnik’s highlights, being cautious not to feed my FOMO – Fear of Missing Out. Yet I soon concluded that it would be far richer an experience if we just trusted our instincts once we arrived. From a practical point of view though, we did make some conscious choices about how best to experience the city. My sense was that seeing it on arrival from the sea was going to be one special aspect that we couldn’t miss. Especially given I am a water baby. Then wandering within its city walls another. And surely a bird’s eye view was on the cards?

Before we launch into how best to experience Dubrovnik, let me reveal a little secret; I completely fell in love with this southern belle. Of all the major cities and capitals we have visited, it will feature in my Wall of Fame alongside Ljubljana, Bratislava, Zagreb and Seville. It can proudly sit shoulder to shoulder with these other compact and characterful cities that haven’t lost their souls to commercialism.

From the minute we approached this iconic Games of Throne film set, I fell in love. There was something embracing, warm and homely about this walled settlement that subtly drew me in. After five hours exploring, I can honestly say that Dubrovnik has a place in my soul and I felt her heart-beat in every alleyway and around every corner, despite clusters of tourists compliantly following those Holiday Rep flags. With this affirmation I find it easy to now write practically about how to make the most of your visit here and share my passion for this resilient and courageous city.

A historical context

Let me offer a brief backdrop to Dubrovnik’s canvas, by sharing a little of her historical landscape. After all, it is not on UNESCO’s list without good reason.

Dubrovnik was founded as Rugasa in 600 AD by a group of refugees from Cavtat, just 40 minutes away by boat. From that point it grew in importance thanks to its oceanic position. It was its sea-faring trade that put the city on the map. As a medieval settlement Dubrovnik has grown from strength to strength. Despite a fire that burnt it to the ground in 1296 and the 1667 earthquake that destroyed most of its important buildings, its resilience has surged. Add to that the tragedy of the seven month Dubrovnik Siege that attacked the very heart of the old town from October 1991 until the end of June 1992. Knowing just a little of its backstory you can begin to feel the soul of the city beyond the facade that awards its oohs and ahh from its visitors.

Now we can begin to focus on how best to introduce yourself to Dubrovnik and get the best experience from your visit here.

1. A watery perspective

Armed with a rough plan, my camera and a steadfast protection for my introverted personality, we put Phase One of our Dubrovnik Sightseeing Strategy into action. Based at Camping Kate in Mlini, we decided, with the weather pretty calm, to head by water taxi. Our dues paid, a mere £6.80 (€7.95 or $8.37) – we excitedly boarded our vessel.

There’s a certain thrill for me about being on the water, whether pootling on my paddleboard or speeding towards some exciting destination. The views of a place from the water are always so different from a land-based perspective. So like an eager child I sat up at the front of the taxi watching intensely, as this stunning Riviera coastline passed before my eyes. First was the haunting view of Kupari’s Ghost Town, bombed and left to rot after the Homeland War in 1991. Next the captivating azure bays, lined with pine trees and their craggy bedrock beaches still attracting sun worshipers even in October.

Within 30 minutes, the horizon offered my first glimpse of Dubrovnik’s old town, a scene I am sure must have featured in Games of Thrones more than once. As we inched ever closer towards the harbour, the city walls enveloped us. Surrounded by boats of every shape and size buzzing around the nearby islands, this city loomed large. It was fantastic to see it from the sea and imagine what it must have been like for historical sea-farers entering the city in their galleons.

Click on our Gallery below.

2. Walking through the city’s soul

Having witnessed our first glimpse of Dubrovnik intimately from the sea with no more than 20 people, we were suddenly thrown into the masses. Like ants, suddenly there were people everywhere. Yet we had primed ourselves for it, so courageously set off. Most unlike me, without a route map, we just wandered, finding as many back streets as we could, to feel the city’s soul.

Ladies sat with their lace and crochet, children played football like the genius that was, Pele and, being a Monday, washing hung out between the alleyways. We caught a side of Dubrovnik that is not on most people’s itineraries; watching cats lazing, dogs guarding and through the open windows, dinners simmering. What a privilege it was to see the city this way. Private, personal and every day life being played out in front of us. Behind the security of the towering walls around us, we strolled up and down the steep and shiny limestone staircases that have been climbed by hundreds of generations before us. This was a fabulous way to experience a tourist destination and, once again felt like a private tour, removed from the route of the cruise-liner visitors. Although it would be inevitable at some point that our route would bring us into the main hub of the city.

The cultural epicentre of Dubrovnik offers you some iconic views; Sponza Palace, the Cathedral, Onofrio’s Fountain and the devastated and iconic Stradun Street. It was here we were greeted with throngs of visitors and it was a matter of skilfully dodging the crowds in order to maintain our soulful edge. Which was I can tell you a bit of a challenge. Yet you cannot miss this part of the city as it holds so many memories, tells so many tales and, reborn from the embers of war, is as much a fibre of the city as its back streets.

Click below for our Street Gallery.

3. A bird’s-eye view

There are two arial perspectives on offer in Dubrovnik.

The first is to encircle the Dubrovnik hub by buying a £28, (€35, $35) ticket to walk the magnificent city-walls. An intrepid tootle of around 1.2 miles, which is just short of 2km, rewards you with a priceless Dubrovnik experience like no other. Whilst it is without doubt expensive, we saw it as an investment; both in ourselves as explorers and to the Croatian community. We have a philosophy that if the price we pay for something is good value and reaps a special or unique bounty, then it is not an ‘expense’. This is how we felt about touring Dubrovnik’s walls. It is such a different way to see and feel this incredible city and we loved it. Even Myles enjoyed it, despite nurturing his vertigo in some places where the tumbling cliff falls away seemingly beneath your feet.

Being able to scan your eyes across the rooftops of this historic city, the first thing you notice is the contrast between the old and new. Destroyed buildings that have yet to be rebuilt, are clearly evidenced by their darker orange roof tiles and pallid facias. Whilst the newly loved properties and historic real estate have a vibrant makeover in both the clean, cream brickwork and the iconic orange roofs. This is a stark reminder that whilst the battle is won and independence secured, the war still leaves scars for all to see.

Your 360º experience of Dubrovnik old town, the coastline and the islands will leave an indelible mark on your heart with complementary colours of rich golden hews, sparking blue seas and a mountain backdrop that holds it all together in a seamless canvas of delight. Looking down at the city you can see figures scurrying along the cobbled streets like something out of a Lowry painting. The enormity of Dubrovnik’s scaling steps hits you as you see them from a whole new aspect where puffing people steadily climb their unforgiving ascension. Then in the blink of an eye the chimney pots shape the horizon as a replica Schooner sails into the iconic port.

Life above Dubrovnik’s beating heart, is truly a magical and addictive experience and well worth the entrance fee.

Click on our Gallery below.

4. The view from heaven

The second arial view-point you can take is in the Cable Car. You can find this just five minutes walk outside the main Ploče Gate on the main road. The pods run regularly, taking you up 778m up to the gods for what must be a stunning view on a good weather day. There is a restaurant up at the top, which on good authority is meant to be excellent. We decided not to take the Cable Car as with the investment of Water Taxis, buses, the walls and lunch, we thought that the cost was one step too far. After a good four hours in the city, to adding this to our one day visit would have been been too overwhelming. If you are in the city for longer than a day, then you could add it to your second day itinerary for sure.

The Motoroamers’ Top tips for Dubrovnik

Plan your visit in one of three time periods; 1. Go early whilst the cruise-liners are eating breakfast. 2. Go around lunchtime as most cruise goers want to return to the ship for their all-inclusive lunch. Or 3. Go after 3pm when many of the cruise boats will be planning to set sail for their next destination.

If you have budget constraints, choose either the Cable Car or the Walls. They are both the same price and will give you an arial view. We would recommend the walls over the Cable Car, if only because the weather can turn quickly and your view could be hampered by clouds or even worse cancelled because of an incoming Bora Bora wind (depending on the season). Of the two we chose to do the walls which gave us a great perspective. I know the views are incredible from the Cable Car, although if you had to choose, then the walls would win every time for me. It has an intimacy that just let me feeling so connected to the city.

If you have mobility issues then Dubrovnik is not very user-friendly given all the steps. And the walls are also not great if you suffer from vertigo or need a walking aid, as you have to climb steps to reach the wall walk. The Red Cross do offer some support if you need a walking aid and access to their details can be found here.

Dogs in Dubrovnik. We did see pets both on the Water Taxi and in the city. Our only thoughts would be to watch the crowds and your low-to-the-ground pooch and of course, keep a watchful eye over their deposits.

Eating in Dubrovnik. Like any city, there are plenty of eating options with an extensive option of styles catered for. You are though, a captive market, so the prices are not cheap. We spent £34 (€40) on a pizza, beer, water and a salad. So not out of the question budget-wise, depending on your constraints, you just need to shop around. Restaurants will be vying for your business so don’t feel obliged to eat if you are only looking at the menu.

There are lots of accommodation options. If like us you are with your camper, then there are a few options. You can stay at Camping Bambo in Slano which is 21 miles (36km) north of Dubrovnik to which you could catch the bus. Alternatively Camping Kate at Milni, which is where we stayed, open from April to the end of October allows easy access to the city. You have the water taxi and the number 10 bus or both if you fancy taking the route we did. Otherwise there are plenty of hotels, AirB&B’s and guest houses in the area so you really are spoilt for choice.
If you are staying around Dubrovnik for a couple of days, then it is worth considering the investment in the Dubrovnik Pass. It entitles you to up to 50% discounts on many Dubrovnik attractions and public transport. You can buy either a one, three or seven day pass which is an investment of between €35 and €55 depending on the duration. With the discounts you receive, the card will have paid for itself. We found out about this too late, although it is worthy of passing on to you.

Check out our YouTube video where we capture the best bits from our short visit to this remarkable city. Click on the image below.

Whichever of the four perspectives you choose to take of Dubrovnik, you will be spoilt with its quiet charm, its low-key vibe and its deeply entrenched history. This is so much more than a city Tick List. This is a full on adventure that takes you into the past whilst leaving your present changed by the soul of this beautiful, resurgent city.

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9 Surprises of Slovenia

by Karen Davies | Nov 8, 2019 | Destinations, Featured Post, Interactive maps, Slovenia, Travel Blog

Slovenia may be a relatively new country that has emerged from the rubble of the Yugoslavia Federation although as a tourist destination it packs a serious punch.

In June 1991, Slovenia became the first republic to make the split and become an independent sovereign state. In 2004 it entered Nato and the EU, and from this point, this gentle and endearing country has grown as a serious contender for tourists’ affections.

Bordered by Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia, Slovenia stands out amongst its neigbours. Dominated by the Julian Alps it competes admirably when it comes to winter sports, alpine scenery and dramatic gorges cut by the ice blue waters of the Soča river. And then there are its iconic views; the unforgettable Lake Bled with its island church, the Postojna Caves with its unique underground train ride and ancient Predjama, the largest cave castle in the world. And that’s before we mention is exquisite wine producing vineyards and charming coastline along the Adriatic Sea.

And yet it is Slovenia’s hidden gems that makes it so memorable for us and why we felt compelled to write this blog and share our little discoveries. Follow our visual tour will give you incentive to come visit this subtle powerhouse destination and seek out the magnificence of this gentle giant, soaring its way up through the world tourist ranks. Check out our Interactive Route Map below to see our routes, POI and overnight stopovers from our last two visits.

Surprise 1 – Kranjska Gora

I have never thought of Slovenia as a winter sport nation and yet on its northerly fringes you will find their ski-resort Mecca. Kranjska is a charming alpine village at the foot of the Julian Alps that tower above you. With ski-slopes, ski-jumps and toboggan runs this really is a resort that is putting Slovenia on the winter sport’s map. Even during the summer, the resort is used as a training ground for countries around the world. The sporting season aside, Kranjska with its mountain range offers hikers fabulous walks that will stretch the calves and cycle rides along the old railway that takes you across the border into Italy. If a less active set up is more your scene, then you can use Kranjska as a base for exploring Lubljana, Lake Bled, the Vrsic Pass and Bovec, all reachable by bus.

Travel Tips

For more bus information click here.
For camping stay at the Aire alongside the ski resort for €15 payable with the Easypark App
For a great meal go to Gostilna Viktor Pizzeria.

Check out our Gallery by clicking below.

Surprise 2 – Soca Valley

With its source deep in the throat of the Julian Alps, the Soca river with its ice blue water courses its way creatively through the valley. Carving deep crevices and gorges, the Soca Valley will delight those looking for a secret summer swim or perhaps even provide the thrill of some serious white water rafting in the spring season. The photographer in you will cry in delight as the valley navigates and snakes its way to Gulf of Trieste in Italy’s north east corner. If you toodle just down the valley to Kanal ob Soči, during steamy summer days you will see the young children jumping off the cliff into the inviting river below. It has so many different faces that driving from the Vrsic Pass following the river’s flow will give you such a great experience all on its own.

Travel Tips

Travel across the Vrsic Pass, route 206 from Kranjska which picks up the Soča river at Bovec.
Stop off at the Russian Chapel that commemorates those Russian soldiers who died building the Pass.
Catch the bus if you don’t want to drive the pass in your car or camper.

Check out our Video and Photo Gallery by clicking below.

Soča Gorge, Triglavski national park, Slovenia

Surprise 3 – Bovec

Ljubljana and Lake Bled are obvious choices for a trip to Slovenia. And whilst they are undeniably beautiful they are tourist traps. The off-the-beaten-track alternative is to visit Bovec. This charming mountain village is nestled in the Alps and is the gateway to the Soča Valley. It can shout proudly about its own ski resort although it is its war memorials that are the greatest surprise. At the Tourist Office in the characterful old town, you can pick up a map with all the Great War references in the area. Most notable are the Ravelnik outdoor museum which you can wander around as if the war ended yesterday, almost smelling the gunshots and sweat from the men in the trenches. The War Cemetery is a sobering visit and seeing the Fortress that played an important role in the Austro-Hungarian arm of the war, will fill in your War education jigsaw.

And if nature is your thing, then a hike to the Slap Virje waterfall will appeal to all your senses or a cycle down to the valley floor where the Soča masters its way through the rocks and pebbles. Bovec is a super place to explore.

Travel Tips

There are a number of basic campsites in Bovec or the Aire at the Ski Resort has full services and facilities and a stunning backdrop.
Visit the Tourist Info for a map of the War Memorials in the area.
Book your kayak and rafting experience from the many companies in the town.

Check out our Gallery by clicking below.

Surprise 4 – Bohinj

Lake Bled with its iconic island church and castle are understandable draws when visiting Slovenia, although for a more authentic and more intimate exploration, head 30 minutes into the mountains to Bohinj. Here you will find fewer tourists and earthy campsites that give you full permission to soak up the silence of Mother Nature. This is a true haven and a delight to visit as an alternative to Bled.

Travel Tips

We stayed at Camp Bohinj, which is an earthy and rustic site hidden in the forest with lakeside access.
Bring your camera and your kayak.

Surprise 5 – Vintgar Gorge

Tick off Bled for sure although don’t leave without visiting the Vintgar Gorge, just under 2 miles away (3km). A bus shuttle will take you there for 5€ or you can cycle the route if you have a bit of power! Vintgar is a return trip of 3 miles (5km) and for a 10€ entrance fee you will wind your way through the deeply carved gorge on well built and safe boardwalks. The twists and turns of the river finally crescendo over the each in a spectacular waterfall making this a charming walk if you’re in the area.

Travel Tips

For the shuttle bus information click here.

Surprise 6 – Postojna Caves

My surprise of the caves were two-fold. Firstly as caves go this is one of the most spectacular we have ever seen. For sheer wow, it’s a must visit. With the train that takes you deep into the mountains and then a two mile walk through chambers created by Mother Nature in an artistic masterpiece. Stalagtites dripping from the ceiling and stalagmites rising from the floor with a texture like marble. Van Gough would have, I’m sure, been proud of the artistic talent displayed down here without any single intervention by man nor beast. This is one place that absolutely needs to be experienced and the train itself that carries into the heart of the mountains is an event all of its own. Resembling a Ghost Train at a Fun Fair, you trundle through the mountains by a living gallery of underground sculptures.

The second surprise of the caves were the crowds. Wow, we were part of a colony of ants, or so it seemed. Despite getting there for the fist train of the day, there were hundreds of people already gathered, jostling for position at the entrance as if they were about to miss the January sales. More and more we realise that the whole ‘shoulder season’ really is diluted these days as on our misty and murky October visit, at least 30 coaches were already in the car park lined up in wait for the return of their charges.

Travel tips

Get to the caves for the 1000am train and arrive at the entrance so that you can get as far forward on the train as a possible. This way there is less crowd management required.
Booking tickets on line is not necessary – so don’t worry if it says there are no tickets available. You can purchase at the Ticket Office just before the train entrance. It costs €25.80 per person for just the caves or €35.70 for a combination ticket for the castle’s inclusion.
Take layers and warm clothing as it is very cool down in the belly of the caves. Also sturdy shoes are necessary as it is quite damp on the walk ways. There’s little danger of slipping, although decent footwear is appropriate.
And whilst you are in the area, why not drive just just over 5 miles (9km) to see the world’s largest cave Castle of Predjama. Not a huge amount of parking available, although if you go early or later in the day it is doable with a camper.

Check out our Video and Gallery by clicking below.

Surprise 7 – Ljubljana

We’re not great city people on the whole, although always visit because all sides of travel need to be explored. And we are so glad, on this occasion that we pushed past our city prejudice. Ljubljana is a clean, compact and charming city that oozes a chill-out command. With its castle views across the northern landscape to its Triple Bridge linking the medieval old town with its new suburbs, we adored this city. We only had a couple of hours here as we were meeting friends although we saw enough to be endeared to the cityscape. From that point on we vowed to give all cities a chance because they may surprise you.

Travel Tips

If you are travelling in a camper, stay outside of the city and travel in by bus. We stayed 20 mins north of the city at a pub camperstop – Gostilna Pri Kovaču (46.031321 14.604002). There is a bus right outside the pub that takes you into the city.
3-5 hours is enough to get a good feel for Ljubljana.

Check out our Video and city Gallery by clicking below.

Surprise 8 – Slovene Riviera

We have never given any thought to Slovenia’s coastline. With it giant competition either side, Croatia and Italy often seem to be far more of an attraction. Although what an incredible visit for the week it was. With Slovenia’s major port Koper at one end and Piran on the southern edge, you have a delightful coastline with nooks, crannies and rugged shoreline to play with. Harbours and street cafés, cycle and walking paths and nature reserves, this region is sublime. And Piran and Izola are just incredible medieval towns that has history and iconic Venetian beauty carved into their mortar. Back in from the coastline, the mountains are dominated by vineyards and olive groves and well worth a little diversion. It was such a delight and one place I would happily return for a bit of RnR. For our full post about the area with detailed Trip Guides, click here.

Travel tips

Out of season is great in the Riviera, although even in October, when the weather is typically gorgeous, locals will all come out for the weekend. So bear this in mind.
For camping options, there is nothing at all in Piran. So we recommend staying in Izola which is halfway between Piran and Koper and then use the cycle path that takes you from north to south effortlessly, to explore. We stayed at a Parking Area run by EasyParking and cost €11.30 per night payable with the app. Or you can pay €10 at the machine as long as you have coins.

Check out our Gallery by clicking below.

Piran peninsular panorama, Slovene Riviera

Piran harbour and old town, Slovene riviera

Surprise 9 – Slovenia’s wine

Who would have thought that Slovenia would be a great wine producer. Well the vineyards may be new to the global wine stage, they are definitely worth trying. With fabulous soil and karst landscape it makes for outstanding wineries, which in the south particularly are seriously beginning to compete with established brands with their Italian neighbours. We particularly enjoyed the family run vineyard Saksida in Nova Goricia which has a fabulous selection of wines at reasonable prices. They also offer a wonderful campsite and 5* restaurant open at weekends.

Also further south in the Slovene Riviera there is a fabulous wine tasting experience at Marezige Vinska Fontana. Up in the hills behind the coast you can, for €8 buy a glass (that you keep) and 3 tokens that allow you to choose from four wine fountains. It is home to the Refošk Wine, well known in this region.

Practicalities of visiting Slovenia

The diversity of the country is enormous and deserves plenty of time exploring. Be mindful of the season you visit. Early spring and late autumn the weather becomes unpredictable and, in the mountains you will often see plummeting temperatures and snow. This may impact on some of the mountain passes and you may need winter tyres or snow socks at the very least.
The currency of Slovenia is Euro.
There is generally very good English spoken in the main resorts, although as with every country a few phrases of Slovene will be appreciated. Try these; Havla – thank you. Dober dan – a formal hello. Govoriš angleško – do you speak English? Lahko dobim račun, prosim – can I have the bill please? Bye – Adijo
Although travelling around the country without going on the motorways is doable, sometimes it’s just easier to hop on for a quicker journey – especially if your time is short. So you will need a vignette which you can buy at most Petrol Stations. It costs just €15 for 7 days.
Take cash, as whilst credit cards are accepted, many restaurants will only take payment in cash.
Download the app EasyPark so you can easily pay your parking charges for either car or camper.
If you are travelling in your camper, please respect their no wild camping rules. There are plenty of campsites and Aire options and although they may be more basic than western Europe, they make perfectly good bases for exploration.
If you are flying, Lubljana’s Joze Pucnik Airport is your main hub which is accessible from all over Europe, many destinations of which offer cheap fares. It is 16 miles (26km) north west of the capital so transportation will be required. A taxi to the city starts from €20.

Final thoughts

Slovenia is an undiscovered marvel and we realise that we haven’t even scratched the surface. Although if you love nature, outdoor life, World War History, wines, coastline and stunning mountain scenery then Slovenia will not disappoint. For a gentle nation with a diverse landscape that packs a powerful punch, Slovenia will delight and surprise in equal measure.

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A Guide to exploring Slovenia’s Riviera

by Karen Davies | Oct 15, 2019 | Slovenia, Travel Blog

SLOVEnia is a beautiful country with a gentle vibe that draws you into its graceful culture and laid back way of life. Yet when I think about Slovenia, its coastline is the last thing that comes to my mind. Perhaps understandably as it only accounts for 1% of the county’s landscape. Mountains, winter sports, lakes, and evocative gorge valleys, oh yes without a doubt – coastline no! And yet Slovenia’s Riviera is a very special region that offers a very unique experience for the weary traveller looking for a bit of respite and a seaside fix.

Slovenia is a million miles away from its iconic riviera cousins in Italy and France. It has a very different feel to the cosmopolitan crowd magnets to the west. No sandy beaches, no ostentatious towns with bling as their middle names, no marble style promenades with cruising chicks rollerblading in skimpy thongs.

Just like with everything in Slovenia, its Riviera coastline is charming and alluring. Nestled between Croatia to the south and Italy to the north, this Istria region offers a trip to the seaside with a difference. It’s a subtle cultural experience that graces you with softness and authenticity and it will have you returning for more of its tantalising caress.

Less than 30 miles long, the rugged coastline washed by the Adriatic Sea, fuses perfectly with the mountain backdrop where olive groves and vineyards compete for the summer sunshine. Whilst there are fourteen settlements along the coast, there are five main villages that draw you into their distinctive Venetian style. Strewn with marinas, red-roofed buildings and church towers whose bells toll for anyone inclined to listen, you can while away an hour or two and feel the heart beat of the Slovene coast.

Much like many places in the arc of this Adriatic shoreline, salt has been a major player in the region’s wealth, with production dating back to 9th century. And today, you will still find active salt pans using traditional methods of extraction. And on top of that, the province is a thriving wine producing area and offers some unique tasting olive oil that has a slightly acidic taste to it, although worthy of a little purchase.

Whilst just skirting around Slovenia’s Riveria is possible, as with most destinations, this place seriously deserves your time and attention. Take more than a few days to explore, soak up its atmosphere and get off the beaten track. This is just what we did October 2019. Let us take you on a journey that might inspire you to head south and have your own seaside adventure.

Slovenia’s coastal jewel – Piran and Portorož

As a starting point, I feel the need to draw you to the south edge of the Riviera. It is here where sights of Croatia attempt to lure you south. Yet Piran and its more touristy seaside neighbour Portorož (Port of Roses), easily hold your focus.

On the southern side of the Piran peninsular, Portorož is the archetypal seaside town with its pristine promenades, palm trees and posh hotels. Although turning a blind-eye, we felt ourselves passing by this more touristy end of the Riviera with our sights set firmly on Piran.

What can we say about Piran? Out of every coastal town that we have had the privilege to visit, this has been the prettiest, most charming and least tourist-infected of them all. When you think that Venice is only just across the Adriatic Sea, it’s a wonder that more coach loads have yet to gravitate in this direction.

Piran has a couple of highlights. First is the view of the marina with the backdrop of the monastery and bell tower behind. The Tartini Square (dedicated to the violin virtuoso and composer Guiseppi Tartini) is magnificent and you can twirl 360º and get a different perspective of the town. With its subtle shades and seemingly wonky buildings, this is a great place to begin your Piran journey.

Walking further along, there’s the iconic view as you gaze along the coastline towards the lighthouse and church. A health warning though! The aromas seeping out from the promenade restaurants will tease you and surely have you trying their mariner’s fare.

Wandering through the cobbled streets, you could loose yourself in the Salt empire of medieval times. Buildings scarred with maritime history and the narrow alleyways telling their own stories from ancient eons. Hidden in their midst you have to visit the Monastery and the Church of St Francis, which dates back to 1301. Look out here for the 500 year old root of a native Olive Tree called Piran Buga.

The other great view point that will give you a breathtaking perspective of the peninsular is the bell tower. For a mere 2€ you can climb the 400 year old tower with its 140 steps and get a bird’s eye view from 47m up. Just be warned – don’t do it on the hour, unless you have ear plugs!

And finally, take the climb up to the old town walls. Adorning the town’s perimeter, these walls date back to 14th century where they protected the town from Turkish invaders. With its magnificently restored towers that crane their necks far above the town, you can an even better view from here, across the town and on towards Venice. The sunsets from here must just be incredible.

Top Tips for Piran

You will not be disappointed by a visit to Piran. Although we suggest you cycle from Izola along the Parenzana Cycle Trail and then walk around the town. Parking is prohibited inside the town and there are only a few parking areas anywhere close and they are not suitable for motorhomes. There are regular buses operated by Arriva that run every day from Izola every 30 minutes and the journey is just half an hour.
Piran Town Walls cost 2€ to climb for the view and are open from 8.00am until dusk.
Piran’s Bell Tower is open from April to October from 10.00am and costs 2€.
If you come in April you can experience Piran’s Salt Making Festival where they celebrate their salty heritage.
Head to Caffe Teater where you can sit and watch the waves whilst languishing in coffee and the most delicious raw cakes. If you have never tried one, then this place is a must.
For a fabulous lunch try Pavel’s Restaurant along the southern edge of the peninsular where most of the tourist restaurants are. Their fish platters are amazing to share. Arrive early around 12noon or after 2.00pm for a guaranteed table with coastal views.
Allow at least 3-5 hours to wander as this place has a timeless feel about it.

We have put together a massive gallery of images. Piran is so picturesque it was far too hard to select just a few. So you have them all! Click the image below for a full view of this magnificent place.

Strunjan and its Nature Reserve

Slovenia’s Riviera is a beautiful blend of rugged coastline and curvaceous uplands that cry out for exploration. Just 10 minutes outside of Izola towards Piran you have the quaint little settlement of Strunjan. Still a Salt-pan region, although more geared for visitors now. With its pebble beaches, cafe and Reserve, you can cycle reasonably easily (if you have electric) to check out this classy Spa seaside town. The Nature Reserve has a plethora of hikes along the cliff tops, with vistas out across the sparking blue Adriatic Sea towards Venice. So get your rucksack, hiking boots and a packed lunch and head out for a day of fresh sea air tramping through the countryside.

Top Tips for Strunjan

If heading to the Riviera in summer, remember temperatures can be very warm. So make sure you have plenty of water.
There are marked cycle paths everywhere, although just bear in mind that some of them are not tarmac and can be tricky to navigate, as we found out. These paths need mountain bikes and steely nerves to manage the rough and rocky path.
If you cycle to Strunjan on the road, via the Nature Reserve, then it is a windy and steep route down. Rather than cycle it back up, take the Parenzana Cycle Trail which will take you back to Izola with a lot more comfort.
Secure your bikes in Strunjan and walk up around the coast to the view points. We didn’t do this as we were carrying a couple of injuries, although with fitness, this would have been our route.
Buy an ice cream from the sea-side cafe. They are to die for. €4 for four scoops! Yum.
If you can, head here for the sunset, the view of which takes in the Piran peninsula and the iconic Bell Tower.

Check out our slightly smaller gallery of three below!

Izola – the marina town

Slap bang in the middle of this seaside paradise is the delightful village of Izola. Whilst we are not interested in going back to a house at this point in our lives, if we did, Izola is somewhere I could live quite happily.

An arial view would probably give you your best vision of Izola, taking in the different boat-harbouring alcoves. There must be over 500 vessels harbouring in its calm waters. It has a quiet demeanour compared to its Koper neighbour and yet a gentle buzz of people that is never invasive. We had five days in the Slovene Riviera with our base in Izola overlooking the marina. This curved bay sheltering from the often vicious Bora winds, creates a safe haven for water sport lovers. With a promenade that is shaped in tune with the crescent bay, you can take a gentle walk, indulge in a 2 mile run (which I dabbled in to stave off the ever expanding waistline) and cycling. The walk into Izola is just five minutes along the marina with echoes of clinking boats that takes me right back to my childhood.

Within minutes the street cafe bars and restaurants present their offerings. One of which is the traditional Izolanka cake. Well it would have been rude not too. Digging into a friend’s ample portion, we had images of an ancient tale behind this local, multilayered chunky masterpiece. Alas the story of its creation is not so old. It was designed by a village baker in 2011 and named by the schoolchildren. Its creation symbolises the town’s relationship with its environment, melding the taste of the sea, the wind and the sun with its nutty chocolate, orange and vanilla cream combo. Sweet although lovely and worth a nibble.

Walking around Izola’s inner harbour and small town square, there is a real intimate feel about the place. Venetian buildings tower over you with their slatted wooden shutters whilst vibrant green pine trees line the coastal pathway. In the maze of narrow cobbled streets, the chances of cats crossing your path is far more likely than people and yet when you emerge back out to the harbour you are reconnected with the marina’s vibe. You can climb the village’s tallest building – its clock tower, for free which gives you an amazing panoramic view of the townscape. Just avoid going up at mid-day as the gonging of the bells will deafen you.

Top Tips for Izola

There are plenty of areas to camp up if you re travelling in a motorhome. Some of the areas you pay €10 and that includes services and electricity.
We stayed at Argo Parking, which is operated by the app EasyPark, which with transaction fees is €11.50 without services, although this has the best view and location for the village centre. You can pay with cash, although you need coins. It does get very busy though at weekends with locals. You can get services at the car park on the north edge of town for free. See the interactive map for details.
For a great meal with lovely service visit Morski Val opposite the small inner harbour and next to the fountain.
Use Izola as your base as it is perfectly situated between the two main towns of the Riviera and offers you the best place for water sports and swimming.

Yet another picturesque village with a gallery full of beautiful images. Check it out by clicking on the image below.

Izola boat and fisherman, Slovene riviera

Koper Port

Koper is the main port of the area, which has to compete with Italy’s Trieste just to the north. So this has a more industrial feel to it and is the fifth largest city in Slovenia. Cruise ships sometimes dock here and you will often see larger freight tankers gliding on the outer limits of the harbour waiting to berth. Subsequently, the old town, we felt was slightly engulfed by the commerciality that has naturally sprung up because of the port traffic. As a result this was our least favourite part of the Riviera, although explore into the heart of the medieval town and there are some treasures to be found. As friends said, who used Koper as their base to explore, ‘It grows on you the more you wander its streets.’

Koper has some seriously old history to its name, going back as far as at least 6th century when Romans fled here from nearby Trieste. Since then, the town has grown from settlement to major trading post with Venice, to today’s modern port offering a significant contribution to Slovenia’s economy.

Seeking beyond Koper’s commercial hub, you can find a lovely marina and pedestrian area which offers a very chic cafe culture and a nicely landscaped park with sculptures and fountains. And in the heart of the historical centre a couple of landmarks will gratify the history seeker. Mostly centred around the Titov trg, Koper’s key points of interest are the 15th century Praetorian Palace, which now houses the local government offices, the Cathedral of the Assumption and its towering campanile. Aside of this, Koper is the starting point of the Parenzana Cycle Trail, which we talk more about below.

Top Tips for Koper

Good place for all your shopping needs.
A good starting point for the cycle route to Piran.
Has coloured fountains that start at 5.00pm.

The Parenzana Cycle Trail

If you want to get around Slovenia’s Riviera, then renting or bringing your own bicycle is a perfect option to explore the coastline. For no better reason than it has a dedicated cycle path running along its entire length. Constructed in 2002, the track takes the route of an old narrow-gauge railway line that was built by the Austrian’s in 1902. It was a vital link for the transporting of salt, wine and olives between Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. The 75 mile (123km) route actually starts in Trieste and goes all the way through to Poreč from which the trail takes its name.

A reasonably easy track to cycle, the Parenzana hugs the coast at Koper through to Izola and then weaves north of the town through the vineyards and olive groves. Avoiding the nasty steep and busy main road, the cycle route passes through two tunnels en route to Piran and offers toilets and rest areas along the way. It is a perfect way to see the main sights of this beautiful and sedate coastline.

Check out our gallery below.

Off the beaten track – Vinka Fontana Marezige

We love to get away from the main tourist spots and forge paths less travelled. Sometimes it gets us into some bother when village streets narrow and the walls seem to move in to tickle our wing mirrors. Still it’s all part of the adventure. At least our experiences can forewarn you if such crazy thoughts of going off piste cross your mind too.

Up in the mountains shielding the coastal towns you enter a world of wine producers and olive oil groves. The shapely and undulating foothills offer great views to the sparkling Adriatic Sea which seem to entice you home. Although these small settlements give you a really authentic look at Slovenia’s Istria region, making sure you stick with these mountain routes. Famous for the Refošk wine, this area is lovely to explore and we stumbled across one of the most unique places we’ve seen for a while. Marezige, a vineyard Mecca just 20 minutes from Koper that has a wine fountain. For a mere €8 you buy a glass, which you take home with you and, together with three tokens, allows you to sample three of four wine taps. With stunning views across to the coast, you can sip your way through a choice of two Refošk reds and two whites. If you have never considered Slovenia as a wine connoisseur, then think again. It may be a young industry although have no doubts about it, Slovenia is an up-and-coming wine producing country that is demanding the world’s attention.

Top Tips for visiting Marezige

Coords are 45.507527 13.799384
Avoid taking the mountain road through Korte. There’s a 6m limit and makes Stelvio’s Pass seem pretty wide and straight.
Follow your SatNav that will take you on the main road from Koper.
If there are two of you who enjoy a tipple, either share a glass to limit the impact of drinking and driving which has a low tolerance in Slovenia or get a taxi from Koper.
In the summer months, take the tourist bus that takes you around the local vineyards.

Check out our gallery of images below – just a small handful this time.

Final Thoughts on the Slovene Riviera

If Slovenia is on your list then you will be in for a treat. Whilst our path through this delicious country has not covered all corners, the parts we have seen have endeared us to this gentle nation. And to now have added the coastline, all 1% of it, to our route map, gives us a more rounded perspective of their heritage and geography. We can’t recommend Slovenia and its Riviera highly enough and implore you to put it on your Wish List.

Top Tips for a visit to Slovenia

If you want winter sports – then Kransjka Gora is a great place to go. With excellent ski runs, jumps and cross-country activities this is a great base for snow sports.
Kransjka Gora is also amazing outside of winter, with plenty of hiking and cycling opportunities. Don’t miss Lago Superiore, just 20 minutes west towards the Italian Border – it’s a stunning location in the mountains.
The Soča Valley is just sensation with its deep gorges and ice-blue waters, it lends itself to hiking, swimming and kayaking.
If WW1 is an interest of yours then Bovec is a great base; Ravelnik is the site of an Austro/Hungarian outpost against the Italians and is free to walk around. There are also Fortresses and War Cemetries to pay your respects.
As capital cities go, Ljubljana is a compact and bijou city-break and we loved it. Half-a-day, will have you navigating its main sights with ease.
Lake Bled is an iconic must, although whilst here, don’t miss out on Vintgar Gorge and Lake Bohinj as super additions or alternatives.
If you intend to visit Slovenia for more than five days and want to travel around, whilst we are not motorway lovers, getting around Ljubljana and going south is far easier on the toll roads. So you’ll need a vignette that you can buy from any major garage. 7 days costs €15.
The Slovene language is a tough one to get your tongue around, although the basics of Dobry dan (hello), Prosim (please) and Hvala (thank you) will get you a long way to earning their respect.
Slovenia’s currency is Euros and although many garages, supermarkets and main shopping centres will take cards, make sure you have enough cash on you for cafés, bars and restaurants.
Many of the car parks, some of which allow you to stay overnight if with your camper, are payable with the app EasyPark.
Slovenia does not allow wild camping, so do so at your own risk.

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Slovenia – Europe’s Best Kept Secret

by Karen Davies | Sep 12, 2016 | Featured Post, Slovenia, Travel Blog

Did you know that Slovenia is the only country in the world to have the word LOVE in it? If you’re like me, your mind will now be going into fast forward to prove whether this is indeed true or not. How about instead, we invest our energy exploring the LOVE in Slovenia, because, by jove it has it in bucket loads! I guarantee that this little known country, nestled between its European cousins Italy, Austria, Croatia and Hungary, will capture your hearts, as it did ours.

We hadn’t planned to come to Slovenia; it wasn’t on any bucket list and, if truth be known, we didn’t really know much about it. After all, when we thought about Europe, Slovenia was just not a place that came to mind. May be if that’s the same for you, I hope after reading this, Slovenia will most definitely be on your ‘must visit’ list.

In my view, Slovenia is one of Europe’s best kept secret and there is a little of me that really doesn’t want to share its magnificence, as its innocence and authenticity are so rare these days. Although share it I must, as it truly stands out amongst the kings of European culture, natural wonders and history. Such is its diversity, that you will surely be magnetised by its captivating aura and be changed forever.

I must also add, at this point that we didn’t cover all of Slovenia, just the western edge – mostly around the circumference of Triglav National Park – there is so much more to discover and uncover. So imagine if this is how we feel after exploring just this small section of the country, what venturing further into its heart-land would create for us!

Here are our Top 7 Slovenian experiences that have made this country such a special one for us.

1. As you enter Slovenia from either its Austrian or Italian cousins, Kranjska Gora is the first town that welcomes you. A ski-resort, just a few miles across the border from Italy, Kranjska is primarily a winter playground, although it attracts plenty of summer visitors for its hiking, cycling and summer toboggan run. The heart of the village itself has managed to maintain its roots and character whilst the Ski area looms large at the other end of town. The real magic for us was Kranjska’s secret doorway to the Triglav National Park. Access to this astounding natural beauty, via the 206 highway, will take you up over the mountains and through the Trenta Valley. Slovenia’s highest road, the Vršič Pass was created initially for military purposes although now takes you on a rollercoaster ride through the most spectacular mountain scenery, finally to be embraced by Boveč at the head of the Soča valley.

Soča Gorge, Triglav NP

2. The National Park, complete with its Julian Alps, craggy limestone peaks, gorges where the emerald river rages even in the height of summer and stunning waterfalls that emerge, seemingly from no where – is a must. This area of the country is an outdoor lover’s paradise; summer brings paragliding, hiking and white water rafting, whilst winter offers all the sports associated with snow-filled mountain tops and valley floors.

3. Boveč itself is definitely worth a visit. You are surrounded by companies looking to help you experience the thrill of the white water – some of which is rated at level 4 and 5 – yet beyond their sale’s pitch is a pretty village and a fascinating journey back in time to World War 1. Starting in the Austrian Alps, the Walk of Peace follows the Isonzo Front to the Adriatic coast, where Austrian-Hungarian troops protected their lands against the Italians from May 1915 – October 1917.

Boveč Open Air WW1 Museum

Following this path you will see many WW1 fortresses, some of which are now museums holding records of the war’s events, in memory of the soldiers who died. One of the best examples is Fortress Kluže just fifteen minutes from Boveč. You will also see cemeteries that offer refuge for the warriors’ ghosts, with nameless plaques respecting and honouring those who fought and lost their lives in the name of freedom. An outdoor museum, about 3km from Boveč is a humbling transportation into the soldiers’ lives, who battled from an unassuming hillside. You can still walk through the caves, tunnels and bunkers that remain in tact and the whole experience leaves you with a huge sense of their suffering and remorse for all that war represents.

4. The one thing that surprised us most is Slovenia’s wine region – yes wine! Slovenia produces an amazing wine stock that challenges its European’s rivals and just has to be tasted to be fully appreciated. Private vineyards cover the south western region of Slovenia and invite you to partake in their local nectar. They may not be big in the wider market place as their production I guess is not big enough for the commercial boys, although there is something extra special about Slovenia’s small scale wine secrecy and it must be sampled.

Ljubljana, Three Way Bridge

5. I cannot pass up the opportunity to mention the beauty of Ljubljana – Slovenia’s capital, which at its heart is an understated yet charming city that will lure you into her magnetic charm. There are the normal magnificent buildings that most cities offer, a stunning three way bridge and a cable car that transports to her renovated castle that played such a poignant role in both World Wars. Yet when you visit, you are most struck by the lack of crowds and peace that she wraps you up in. There is a youthful vibrancy that the University brings to its streets, numerous cafes, restaurants and wine bars, which is accompanied by a history that satisfies those looking for a tale of treachery, battles and conquests. You will be enthralled by Ljubljana’s idyllic river that winds around the old city with weeping willow trees sheltering its banks and you will love the parks that pop up all through the city contributing to a Green way of life. In fact they have won an award as European Green Capital 2016 for its environmental efforts. At night the city transforms itself into an energetic yet gentle buzz of entertainers, evening strollers and cafe-goers, happy to pass their time chatting over a bottle or two of that delicious Slovenian wine. Candles flicker and together with the symbolic green lights shining on the castle walls, creates a completely different atmosphere to the capital’s daytime experience, leaving you feeling totally connected with the city and wanting more.

Lake Bled

6. A visit to Ljubljana must be accompanied by a saunter up to Lake Bled and its iconic island church, whose bell tolls out the wishes and dreams of its eager visitors, as they echo around the mountain backdrop. The castle towers above the lake keeping guard over its legacy and the neighbouring Vintgar Gorge offers you the most incredible, naturally carved scenery that the Bohinj Glacier began sculpturing eons ago. 1.6km of wooden walkways guide you along the ever-changing river as it gushes and glides through the gorge, until it reaches its waterfall crescendo. And all for a €4pp entrance fee – it’s a steel.

Lake Bohinj

7. If Lake Bled all feels a bit too much, then travel west into the mountains for thirty minutes where you will be treated to the much quieter Lake Bohinj. Here tranquility and restoration are assured in this secluded location, sheltered by the maternal Triglav mountains. Hidden from most tourist trails, Bohinj is a little gem that won’t be inundated with tour guide flags, coaches and camera clicking visitors. You get the feeling that Bohinj is where the locals go for their mountain retreat and it is worth putting on your list.

I realise that our Top 7 favourite Slovenian experiences really only capture a small essence of the whole country, although we have seen enough to fall in love with its culture and its authenticity. Slovenia will stay within our hearts – so much so that a return visit is assured. You too could fall for Slovenia’s charm, which subtly hypnotises all who travel within her diverse borders.

Karen and Myles – The Motoroamers.

Boveč Open Air WW1 Museum, Ravelnik,, Slovenia

Boveč and the Triglavski National Park, Slovenia

Llubljana, Slovenia

by Myles Davies | Sep 3, 2016 | Slovenia

Well, what a pleasant treat Ljubljana is. An understated vibrant small capital city with an ‘Outdoor cafe vibe’ feel to it. A recommendation would be to pay €4 for the funicular rail to the castle (not €12) as the castle is free. For motorhomers you can park outside the city in Sostro and get the no 13 bus into town €2.40 return trip.

Experience Dubrovnik 4 ways

9 Surprises of Slovenia

A Guide to exploring Slovenia’s Riviera

Slovenia – Europe’s Best Kept Secret

Llubljana, Slovenia

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