Montenegro may be new on the tourist scene, but as a road trip destination it is pretty special. Scrutiny of the Lonely Planet’s Guide may offer a taster of what this small Balkan country has to offer, but what you hope to find will go way beyond this travel book. And it is found in the heart of the Skadar National Park.

Riejke Crnojevića is a very special place that defies explanation. Whilst the picture do it some justice, the truth is, you simply have to go there to feel it. I felt the same about visiting the Grand Canyon in my teenage years. How do you even find the words to describe a place so special that has some sort of change to you on the inside?

Riejke on the map looks pretty unassuming. Whilst the tributaries of the Skadar Lake – the largest in the Balkans that straddles both Albania and Montenegro, look pretty impressive, you might never give it a second glance. But a glance you must. Let me see if I can bring you along for the ride.

The first challenge to reach this authentic Montenegrin town is the road to it. Located just 10 minutes south of capital Podgorica you turn off on what looks like a pretty stunning drive. A drive, which if you have a strong head for heights will have you sailing down it’s descending path. Timing of your journey feels important having done it both ways because there is quite a lot of traffic given it’s scenic view points. After lunch seems like a good starting point for going down – early morning for your return journey. This minimises the traffic you will encounter on this narrow road with few passing places. But the woos and wows that leave your lips will, in some perverse way make it all worth it, but I say this as a passenger. The vision of seeing the river snaking around the mountIans and then gliding south towards the lake captures the imagination.

There’s a sense of relief as you approach river level knowing that your passage is almost complete and the time to rest has arrived. And for us that relief was palpable, especially for Myles who suffers from Acrophobia. But of course, never far from mind was the need to get out of this spectacular valley. With a bit of help, we managed it.

Settled into our beautifully chosen campsite, we sat in our riverside pitch and started to breathe again. Now we could turn off the high alert and enjoy some relaxation. And it was hard not to with the energising buzz of boat trips whizzing by, the curious dragonflies that perched on the lights and the family of swans that glided by a few times a day. Life has a way of slowing to the pace of the air around it and this was certainly true for us.

Over our 10 years we have generally moved from place to place every couple of days. But there was something about this hidden gem in Riejke Crnojevića that called us to stay just one more day. In a move that thrilled me, our neighbours had a pump that would fit our paddleboard perfectly. Ours is somewhere in a garage back in the UK. So with delight I watched it coming to life and with it, my hopes of adventure. Back in March I broke my ankle so any hopes of getting out on my board were severely shelved.

The joy was real. Sitting, for now upon my board and gliding up the river to the town hub was an incredible moment, that will never be erased from my heart. When immobility hits, to finally experience motion is a priceless moment. Water is my happy place and there is no better destination if this landscape appeals to you too.

Another water moment that swept us away on the early morning waves was a boat trip into the hidden crevices of the lake. Riejke Crnojevića is a magnet for boat trips, taking out locals and a handful of tourists upon this 200 miles² lake. I have found, over the last few months, that exploring has to be done in different ways, and boat trips have been a regular feature, keeping my travel dreams alive. And this trip was up there with the best.

An early morning departure, had the waters to ourselves. Just early bird fishermen in the hopes of catching some carp, a local delicacy were our only companions. With our €5 National Park entrance fee paid, we skimmed across the mirror glass waters meandering our path to the tune of the river’s shape. Reed beds and lily pads lined our path as our wake greeted them with some ferocity. We had high hopes of seeing the rare Dalmatian Pelican and we were not disappointed. There was only one, but it was enough. We stood still without causing him distress and watched his majestic wings carry him across the water’s surface. It left me breathless, despite seeing them in Greece some years ago, to capture another glimpse of this protected bird felt a special moment.

Our captain took at speed through the lily canals, at a snail’s pace through the ‘Amazon’ and deep into the far reaches of the lake where the isolated 19th century fishing village of Karuč impressed us. Yet it is In this small alcove where renovated holiday cottages replace the ancient mariners’ homes, that the lake’s deepest centre point lies. 44 metres!

The boat trip at that time of the morning felt like a unique chance to engage with life on the water without sharing it with a soul. The contrast in speed, vistas and human versus nature just hooked us into a different world that allowed our troubles to pass effortlessly. For exclusive fotge of our boat trip, we’ve added the video below.

Getting around Riejke Crnojevića is easily achieved from the campsite, within a 10 minute walk. This small community of just 300 inhabitants now make a point of keeping the town alive with the speed boats and restaurants being at its centre. But dig a little deeper and you will find so much more to Riejke Crnojevića.

In 1475, ruler Ivan Crnojević fortified Obod Hill near the river to escape the advancing Ottoman army after losing at Žabljak Crnojevića. And with his fortress built, medieval Riejke became an important settlement and in fact developed as the capital of Montenegro. On top of this fame, in 1493/94 the first Printing Press was established, producing south-eastern Europe’s first Cyrillic book, the Oktoih Prvoglasnik.

A few decades later, thanks to its waterside location, Obod soon evolved as a hub for trade, becoming the largest inland port in the country. And it was here that the Peace Treaty was signed between the Montenegrins and Ottomans following the uprising in Herzegovina, on September 8th in 1862.

Its old stone bridge is of particular interest; commissioned in 1853 by the Montenegrin Prince Danilo. He erected the bridge in memory of his father Stanko Petrović.

Whilst today little remains of the trade port hub, there is an energy about the place where you can feel the buzz of what must have been a thriving community. Some buildings are decaying as you walk deep into the town, but the promenade and restaurants are a stark reminder of human resilience and determination.

Riejke Crnojevića, for us, had a rollercoaster of emotions. From the scary drive in and out to the thrill of the boats, the paddleboard moments and all the stillness that it created space for. However, when we step back, we profoundly sense that without our kinesthetic reaction to the town, this is a must see for anyone who wants to get off the beaten track in Montenegro. For more information on Montenegro or doing a fly/drive tour of the mountains, you can access more of resources to make your Montenegro trip of a lifetime.