Getting off the beaten track in any country rewards you with unexpected and beautiful discoveries. No more so than our winter 2024 race across the Castilla y Leon region of northern Spain. Come in with us as we begin uncovering the best bits of Spain’s Iberian Wolf Centre. What a find this was hidden on the road less travelled.

I do love a bit of planning. Going with the flow is great, although as explorers, delving into the heart and soul of a country or region, is one of the reasons we travel. And researching where you are, where you want to be and what treats might be there to uncover, is all part of that plan.

So imagine my joy, when nosing around Google Maps for our potential next overnighter, I quite literally stumbled upon the Iberian Wolf Centre and Sanctuary. Now we are not fans of Zoos, although give us a Sanctuary where animals are either rescued, protected and cared for, then we’re in. I used to work at the Donkey Sanctuary in Sidmouth, UK and so I know the good work that these charities do. I also remember my hesitation at visiting the Zarnesti Bear Sanctuary in Romania in 2017, yet what an inspiration they were. So these days, when I find a centre that looks to educate and protect, then I tend to make a bee-line for it.

The Iberian Wolf Centre is just 5 miles from Pueblo de Sanabria in north west Spain in the Castilla y Leon region. Hugging border with Portugal, it was just prime for a visit given this was our rough direction. On top of that we found that we were allowed to stay there overnight, so that was a bonus.

About the Centre

In 1987, this centre was set up to protect those animals that cannot live naturally in the wild. Set in the heart of the Sierra de la Culebra Regional Hunting Reserve, the Centre plays an important role in both educating and protecting wolves from this area, one of the last remaining strongholds of Spain’s diminishing wolf population. In this 67,000 hectare area, the wolf has gone from being seen as vermin, to animals to be hunted and now are a protected species. It is here that the wolf population is the greatest in all of Western Europe.

It provides information on iconic species and habitats to help you identify and appreciate the cultural and natural heritage in these places in a respectful way, and by doing so foster the conservation and appreciation of biodiversity and cultural heritage.

With the eco-friendly Interpretation Centre you can learn about the wolf’s habitat, history and reputation, understanding how their mystical and often misrepresented evil personalities have played such a big role in their fading population across the world. Even across Spain, the distribution of wolves has seriously reduced over the last 120 years, leaving just a few small areas that still have a wolf presence. Castile y Leon has the largest population of around 1100 wolves.

Since the 1970’s when there was much hatred for wolves, the numbers have slowly been on the rise thanks to a number of socio-economic factors such as people moving from the country back into town. The Government have also made it illegal to hunt wolves and so we are now seeing this ancient animal recover its numbers. Thanks to the efforts of a famous Spanish naturalist, Félix Rodríguez de la Fuente, the wolf is making a coming back and the Iberian Wolf Centre is focused and helping people understand more about this fabulous creature.

The relationship between people and wolves is a controversial one. Back in time when hunting was allowed, farmers protected their flocks and herds from the predators through traps, dog collars and shooting. These days, the education programme and wolf protection is such that fencing and Mastif dogs are now common place around the region. The relationship with the wolf has by no means healed although a better coexistence is emerging over the last three or four decades.

Seeing the wolves in action

During a 2hr guided tour, you will with the aid of this audio guide be able to learn more about the wolf and its lifecycle and lifestyle. The second part of the tour allows you to follow paths that go alongside the fenced enclosures and observe the wolves in their natural habitat. There are currently 13 wolves at the Sanctuary that have either been rescued from illegal captivity, rescued due to injury or who have been born with the centre itself.

Seeing these beautiful creatures emerge from the dense pine forest is a magical moment. Despite the fact that they now have significant human intervention during two feeding times, it does allow you the privilege of seeing an otherwise illusive animal going about its daily habits. Watching their behaviours makes you realise how akin to dogs they truly are and that we can most likely trace the dog’s evolution right back to the wolf, despite some denial from certain quarters.

As the ranger feeds the animals, Red Kites mew and circle above our heads, reminding us of the circle of life. They are as mesmerising as the wolves and the two attempt to co-exist.

The freezing temperatures of the late afternoon prevented me from being out for too long, although there is something about seeing these creatures that is quite magnetising.

Things to know before visiting

I class ourselves as being lucky. Getting to the Wolf Centre was easy, with a direct route through Puebla de Sanabria. However, the website is only in Spanish, so trying to get information about opening hours was tricky, except for the Google listing saying it was open until 6.00pm.

As it turned out, during the winter months, there are just a few slots available for tours; Monday, Friday and the weekends with tours starting at 11am and another one at 3pm. Summer hours I think differ significantly, although do make sure you check the website. We arrived at lunchtime on Monday and whilst I couldn’t get tickets online for that afternoon, I popped to the Visitors’ Centre and managed to buy a ticket at the front door.

Tip 1 – reserve your tickets ahead of time.

Now the 2 hour tour was all in Spanish as I mentioned earlier. So get yourself prepared ahead of time, by opening up this link to the Tourist Centre for Castile y Leon. They have transcripts and recordings for each of the areas you are taken to.

Tip 2 – take ear buds so you can listen to the commentary whilst tagging along with the group.

If you visit during the winter, the Centre is at least 2,500ft up, so the weather can get pretty chilly. So whilst the Interpretation element of the tour is inside and toasty warm, when you get outside, you are standing around watching the wolves feed, so be prepared to get cold.

Tip 3 – dress up well if you visit during the winter and be prepared to be standing around for 2 hours.

If you have limited mobility, don’t worry, the Centre is easily accessible for wheelchairs.

If you love photography, then this place will be right up your street. If you have a HDR camera I would recommend taking it, as the Observation Hides in the forest make Mobile phone photography a bit more difficult, whereas a zoom lens will pick up some great shots, like the ones I have added here with my Sony RX10 Bridge Camera.

Tip 4 – Take your camera for some cracking photography.

And finally, if you come to the centre in your motorhome or camper, then you can stay overnight in their car park. Whilst it is anything but level, there are a couple of spots lower down or right up the top where with levellers you can make do. It’s free to stay overnight. Alternatively you could stay in the Aire or parking spots in Puebla de Sanabria and then drive the 5 miles into the Centre.

Tip 5 – you can stay overnight with your motorhome and the Park4Night maker is this.

So, if like me you love wildlife, love the idea of supporting the protection of dying species and want to be part of their care and education, then why not put this on your list to visit. It is a very special place to experience, especially if you stay overnight int the car park, falling asleep to the sound of the howling wolves deep in the forest. We can’t recommend this Centre highly enough.

/K