Scotland is perfect for a road-trip, offering a vast array of experiences. Whilst the mainland is undoubtedly magnificent, the islands are not to be missed. As part of our Scottish Isles Discovery, we give you a guide to what to see on Scotland’s Isle of Bute by motorhome.

1. About the Isle of Bute

In Scotland’s south west corner, you will find Bute, as it is more commonly known. Just a 40 minute ferry ride from Wemyss Bay, an hour west of Glasgow, this small, compact and bijou island has plenty to offer. Being only 15 miles long and 7 miles wide, you can get around the island with ease. The Isle of Bute by motorhome is just perfect. Read on to find out why.

Geologically the island is split into two, thanks to the Highland Boundary Fault line. This dissects the Scottish Highlands from the Lowlands giving two distinct landscapes. From the Isle of Arran in the west up to Stonehaven in the east there are so many places to see how the fault line has influenced the topography. No more so than Bute, where from Rothesay to Scalpsie a visible line cuts through the centre of the island.

Historically there is plenty to appease you. Prehistoric standing stones will give cause to reflect on our deepest ancestors, whilst Dark Age monasteries and Viking invasion shape the very heart of the island. The Stewarts and Norwegians had a tempestous tête a tête during the 12th century, witches were rumbled in the 1600s, whilst World War 2 stamped the most recent mark on island life.

The population of the island is small, the most populous town of which is Rothesay on the east coast. Roads are quiet and the tranquility is almost touchable. A road-trip here offers the motorhome visitor a fabulous start to their Island Hopping adventures.

2. Getting to the Isle of Bute

Scotland has nearly 800 islands, many of which are inhabited, others belong purely to Mother Nature. And so for the islanders and visitors alike, getting to and from the mainland requires a robust transport network. Offered by CalMac Ferries, an essential and regular island ferry service ensures the thriving of tourism and local lifestyles. Many people, us included can be concerned about taking their vans on ferry trips, although the Isle of Bute by motorhome is an easy introduction.

There are two ferries that operate to the island. The main one is from Wemyss Bay to Rothesay taking around 40 minutes and will cost around £41 one way for a 7.4m motorhome with a bike rack on the back. Embarkation is easy both ends, and each ferry takes approximately 50 vehicles.

The second ferry is up in the north at Rhubadoch to Colintraive. Whilst the stretch of water is a mere 300m and the journey time just 5 minutes, there is a warning we must offer for motorhome owners. If, like us, you have challenges with a low slung rear bumper, then this ferry is a challenge to get on, especially at low tide. Whilst they did their best to accommodate, the steepness of the slope was far too great and we would have, without doubt caused some damage to the rear skirt. As you can see from the pictures below, we are not exaggerating. It might be different with a high tide, although we would suggest not risking it, despite the short cut it offers you.

Instead buy a return ticket to Rothesay and if you decide to try the northern ferry at high tide and get on, then you’ve not wasted too much money.

3. What to see on the Isle of Bute

Whilst it might be small, the island packs a mighty punch. And so a visit to the Isle of Bute by motorhome is absolutely ideal. We stayed for four days and it was a perfect blend of restfulness and exploration, allowing us to learn about this lavish land. Here are our top destinations to check out;

Rothesay

Arriving at the island’s main town of Rothesay you are immediately thrown into the heart of Bute’s more recent history book. The first thing that will strike you is how elegant this coastal town is with its charming Victorian houses that line the smart promenade. It has an air of soft assertion as it looks out to the bay towards the mainland. A feeling of independence and strength wash over you as you connect with this small community. And yet, one street back you will discover a Medieval castle that is unique amongst its Scottish cousins, given its shape and moat formation. Rothesay Castle originates from around 1200AD and is the seat of the Stewarts, and from this place battles for supremacy with the Norwegians place their mark on the town. You can visit the castle for an adult entry of £7.50.

Did you know that Rothesay had the only gauge tramway to be built on any Scottish Island? It was constructed around 1882 and ran for around 4 miles along the promenade to Port Bannatyne. It was closed in 1936. An electric version of the tramway took visitors over to Ettrick Bay from 1902.

If you enjoy the Hairy Bikers, then you can follow them around Bute as they cook their way around the island. Rothesay’s Macqueen’s butcher welcomed the duo to sample their very special Haggis, which is worth stopping by if you get the chance.

Rothesay also has the island’s only campsite, which is worth booking well in advance if you prefer the comfort of a site as opposed to off-grid camping.

Mount Stewart

As you take the road north, quiet roads that hug the shore fringed with the late summer bright orange crocosmia, ease you gently into Bute’s tranquil charm. Along the way you pass bold and stunning houses, in fact more like mansions with their incredible vistas over toward Ayr. You also pass the picturesque village of Kerrycroy. Built in the early 19th century, it is thought to model a traditional English village with its mock Tudor buildings and village green. It is certainly worth a short photograph stop.

We’re not ones for Stately Home visits, although we were recommended to visit this one, and in hindsight wish we had. It is apparently quite breathtaking. Although at an eye watering £17 entrance fee for the house and gardens, it is not cheap.

However, we were lucky enough to see the gardens and the outside of the house for free when I signed up for my first ever ParkRun, the route of which takes you through Mount Stewart’s gardens. It was a fabulous experience to see this place up close and next time we will certainly have a look inside the house.

Kilchatten Bay and the South Bute Coastal Walk

If you love the sea and walking, then a trip to the off the beaten track Kilchatten Bay is a must. With a small car park, that you can stay at overnight, you have direct access to the coastal path. If you are feeling fit, then the way can be circular and it will take you around 2-3hrs. Alternatively, you could just walk to the Lighthouse and back, which is a 3 mile round trip.

With its fabulous and unique geology, it is definitely worth some time here to gaze upon the well crafted rock formations and wait patiently for a seal to emerge to entertain you.

St Blane’s Monastery and the Black Rock Standing Stones

We’re taking you back in time to the Dark Ages now, as a 15 minute trip around the southern tip of beautiful Bute brings us to St Blane’s. Albeit a single track road, like many in Scotland, there are passing places, and even in August, there was little traffic to bother us.

With roadside parking away from the bus turning point, you have an easy place to stop and begin the uphill walk to the secluded ruins. St Blane’s chapel is thought to be 6th century complete with two cemeteries. The lower one for the secular commoners and women, and the upper area for the dignitaries and monks of the parish. The boundaries of the monastery are surprisingly large, and hidden behind a small wooded parcel you find the exquisite remains of St Blane’s chapel. The views over the bay itself make for a worthy hike.

You can stay overnight in the park area at the bottom of the hill, although we decided against it. It wasn’t very flat.

And if you return back the way you came towards the main road, you will see, just on your right a parking area for the Black Rock prehistoric, standing stones. There is a short walk to reach another set of stones, which you need to allow around 30 minutes to reach. There is plenty of motorhome parking if you just drive 100m into the turning.

Ettrick Bay, west coast of Bute

Home to the setting sun was calling us, as we headed along the east coast. With a short diversion to Rothesay, our route took us along the Highland Boundary Fault line where the division between Highlands and Lowlands became obvious. The lochs along the way ran parallel to the road and if we had been really patient, it is here that there are ospreys.

Ettrick Bay was our final destination, in part because of its delicious overnight spot. With a cafe and views across this stunning bay towards Arran, it was a fabulous place to call home. About a mile up the road there is an ancient church (that has now fallen into decay), War Memorial graves to commemorate our fallen heroes and an old tramline. The electric tramway was a popular way to travel between Rothesay and Ettrick Bay between 1902 and 1936. The cafe serves up some incredible food and is worth ‘paying your way’ by trying one of their lemon meringue cheesecakes.

4. Practicalities for visiting the Isle of Bute with a motorhome

There are a few things to consider when bringing your motorhome over to the Isle of Bute, which we hope will be useful in your planning.

• August Bank Holiday weekend is the island’s Highland Games so be prepared for the campsite to be fully booked and more people than normal to be visiting. That will put a pressure on the ferries and places to stay. So be mindful of this when you visit.
  
• Scotland’s schools break up at the end of June until mid August, so you might find that again there are more visitors here during this period. So book up ferries in advance and the campsite too, if that is your chosen accommodation.
  
• There is only one petrol station on the island; Gleaner Petrol Station in Rothesay. So come to the island with a full tank from one of the many cheaper supermarket stations on your way to Wemyss Bay if you are in any doubt. There is no LPG here at all.
  
• The island is small and easy to drive around. So plan for 3-5 days here depending on how much walking you enjoy, time to relax, the weather and other islands you want to visit.
  
• There are a few small supermarkets in Rothesay to buy essentials and a Post Office.
  
• Cafés and small bars/restaurants can be found in Rothesay and some of the small villages.
  
• Some of Bute’s roads are narrower than we might be used to on the mainland, although because they are so quiet and have passing places, it is easy to get around. You are most like to pass agricultural vehicles above anything else.
  
• Although Scotland has a Free to Roam policy for wild camping in tents, please ensure that if you do go off grid, that you are respectful of residential houses, the local’s parking and of course the environment. If you need to replenish water, empty black and grey waste, then you can do this at the Roseland Caravan Park between 2-4pm for a £10 fee.
  
• The weather here, especially being on the west coast of Scotland, can be extremely changeable, exposed and stormy. So be prepared for all sorts of conditions.
  
• Bute is excellent for cycling, so bring your bicycles with you.
  
• Beaches are pet friendly, from what we saw, even in summer.
  
• The Wemyss Bay ferry has a Pet Area onboard so you can take your pets out of your vehicle for the duration of the crossing.
  
• Be mindful that from time to time, ferry crossings can be cancelled due to bad weather, so do look at the forecast and their website before making your journey to the port.
  
• If you enjoy participating in ParkRuns, every Saturday at 9.30am there is a run through Mount Stewart, with ample parking for motorhomes within the estate ground’s car park.

Closing thoughts

Beautiful, perfectly formed and traditional, Bute has a personality all of its own. Whilst perhaps not so mountainous as its neighbouring Arran nor blessed with a distillery, don’t underestimate the peace and back to nature experience that Bute will give you. The Isle of Bute by motorhome is an unforgettable experience, so please come!

There’s a wonderful stillness that envelopes you here and its spirit gives you permission to be and do whatever feels right. Its slow pace of life is endearing and we loved Bute’s introduction to our Scottish Isles’ road trip.

For maps and information on other routes we’ve taken around the UK, check out our dedicated Interactive Map page. Plus for more detail on Scotland and how to make the most of your road trip here, check out their official website.

/Karen