All things Greece

All things Greece

As I write about our Greek adventures for a magazine article this week, I have noticed how many posts there are on Facebook about heading to this luscious land this year. I’m sure it’s always been a popular destination – after all who wouldn’t want golden sands, white washed, cobbled-stoned street villages and azure blue seas! I’m in!

As we had a glorious 3 months there touring in our camper, a month of which was in Crete I thought it would be worth putting together a resource that captures all of our experiences, lessons, places we visited, and camper stops just in one place. A one-stop shop if you like. Of course the normal caveat applies – we didn’t visit everywhere – you can’t possibly in three months, although we gave it a good shot and managed to get to see a diverse range of places on Islands, mainland and the Peloponnese. So sit back, relax and soak up the goodness that is Greece.

 

Interactive Route Map for Greece

This map gives you a good sense of our places of interest and our camping spots with co-ordinates, if camping is your thing. Just click on the dots for more information.

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Getting to Greece

There are many ways to get to this gorgeous land;

  • Flying is the most obvious, either into Athens or into one of many inhabited islands.
  • Or you could take the ferry from one of five ports in Italy; Venice, Ancona, Trieste, Bari, Brindisi to either Igoumenitsa in the north of Greece up by the Albanian border or Patras, gateway to the Peloponnese.
  • Alternatively you could drive, one of two routes depending on which part of the world you are living in of course…..
  • Either you can drive south through Italy, Croatia, Albania and Bosnia (although there may be insurance limitations on your vehicle for the latter two –  meaning you have to rely on getting a Green Card at the Border, so do check before you travel.)
  • Or you can take the Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria route, dropping into north-east Greece.

We took the ferry from Spain to Italy, as we spent winter there and then hopped across the Adriatic Sea from Bari to Igoumenitsa. You can read more about the ferry options from Spain and Italy by clicking here for our comprehensive blog.

Greece Mainland – it’s a must 

Many of us when we think of Greece immediately conjure up the iconic images of the lslands, steeped in glorious sunshine and to-die-for beaches. And whilst it’s true, they are certainly devine – (who wouldn’t want to see Santorini at sunset?), there really is so much more to Greece. The mainland in particular is a jigsaw of diverse pieces that, when put together create a map of historical intrigue, natural wonders and an authentic off-the-beaten-track perspective.  Here’s our highlights, just to whet your appetite;

Metsovo Lake where your only neighbours will be the sheep dogs and the odd bear or two, if you are lucky to see them. In an incredible landscape high up in the Pindos mountains and with a little hop, skip and a jump you can check out Metsovo – a characterful mountain village that thrives on local tourism and agriculture.

Kastoria a byzantine town hidden in the mountains with its own mirror lake. A town that has prospered historically under the fur-trade banner and more recently attracts international rowing athletes. And if caves are your favs, then you seriously need to go see the Dragon Cave, which is the third largest and longest in Greece, with seven underwater lakes and chambers like you have never seen before. And then there’s the bird life which with its 100 plus pelicans, grebes and warblers you will be in ornithological heaven. Here’s a glimpse of what is in store for you at Kastoria.

Kerkini – the place where land succumbs to water as this wetland nature reserve protects hundreds of bird species and where water buffalo wallow in the bogs creating their delectable cheese.  Take the sunrise boat ride to see the birds in their natural habitat and be bowled over by this preserved landscape. .

Meteoraa surreal and atmospheric place that looks like something out of a James Bond movie-set. Where sandstone rocks rise to the sky with six monasteries atop. An early morning visit benefits you with swirling mists and shafts of light caressing these magnificent buildings that make you wonder at their engineering feat. It’s a busy place, so beware of running the gauntlet with the caterpillar procession of coaches. Make the most of your trip by following our free guide. And don’t miss the incredible drone footage that we captured.

Parga and Lefkas – the west coast of the Greek mainland offers a town that Italy’s Cinque Terre would be proud of with its colourful terraced houses overlooking its double bay. And Lefkas, the only island you can drive to, is more like something out of an Indian Ocean brochure, with its white sand beaches.

 

PELOPONNESE – AN AFFAIR WITH THE SEA 

So many visitors flock to the Peloponnese, three fingers and a thumb of the most spectacular coastal scenery you will see. Coves, bays and headlands will greet you here, with the earthiness of nature’s battle and yet the grace of a seagull. Don’t miss out on the Diakopto Railway that will take you to the mountain village of Kalyvita, scene of the WW2 Massacre in 1943 and then the Corinth Canal which tells a whole different tale. The ancient delights of Epidaurus with its Amphitheatre and Healing Sanctuary will no doubt impress or perhaps  its coast will have you exploring the underwater cities with your kayak or snorkel. Methana and its volcanic delights reminds you how fragile our world is and how the earth’s core still runs the show from beneath the surface. Climb up to Methana’s largest volcano via its lava paths and even enter into its shaft – it’s like being on the moon and the scenery isn’t bad either.  Check out our video here and our blog.

At Galatas, just a little further round the coast you will gasp in amazement at the first real sighting of a traditional Greek village. The island of Poros, which is just a €1 ferry ride away is a delight for fisherman, sailors and visitors as you wander the cobbled streets and immerse yourself in authentic Greek culture. It is a pretty surreal place only really captured by our drone – the pictures simply don’t do it justice…  Here’s our blog on the area…

And the ancient capital of the Peloponnese, Napflio with its mesmerising coastline and crystal waters will lure you and surprise you with its three castles, suggesting its historical prowess. The old town is stereotypically Greek with its alleyways linked by magenta bougainvillaea, cafe culture and cobbled stairways leading to the real Greek lifestyle rather than the tourist one. And don’t miss the mind-blowing ancient citadel of Mycenae, just 20km drive north where you will be transported to 4000BC and will get to gasp in humility at the advancement of this age with their water system and jewellery making capability. All of which would look at home in our high street shops.

The Peloponnese Thumb is a great introduction to the area and a delight to behold.

 

Camping in Greece

Firstly let us say that Greece is wild camping paradise and as long as we are respectful and aware of our surroundings, you can pretty much overnight anywhere. We found some amazing spots, partly thanks to our Greek wild camp guide  – Mit Dem Wohnmobil auf die Peloponnese. Although it is in German, the co-ordinates and pictures are more than enough to go by in choosing a home.

We also followed pins that have been collected by previous campers such as Peejays, although we also found our own spots along the way. This is one of our favourites at Porto Cheli on the Peloponnese.

As you’ll see from our interactive map, there are a fair few camping options and whilst campsites are not profuse in Greece, they do exist. Bare in mind that many of them are only open from mid April until mid-end October. That said, if you’re happy wild camping, then going into an official site will only become necessary to off load and fill up with a bit of washing on the side.

Water filling up is easy – every beach and marina have showers that you can fill up from and many mountain villages have fresh water springs. So you’ll never go without. For black waste we had a number of solutions for this. First was to go to a Garage, where they often had outside toilets. In exchange for diesel they would give us permission to off-load, given that we don’t use chemical products in our toilet. Secondly, we would ask permission from campsites that we found along the way, whether we could use their facilities. Despite always offering to pay for their services, they rarely took it and were very happy to help. We were only refused once and we kind of understood why.

Getting by in Greece

Life is very easy in Greece. There’s no need to rush and the weather is generally great even in Spring, except for the afternoon wind that always springs up like a bad smell, every day. Although let’s face it, it was a warm wind!  Driving was pretty good on the whole, although some of the roads left a little bit to be desired. We learnt that when searching for a place to stay, to park up and explore on foot rather than risk taking the van and getting stuck. It happened once and we didn’t repeat the error.

Eating out is cheap and delicious and one of the best places in Europe to get lamb.  The cost of living is pretty much the same as Italy and France. Still with the amount of wild camping you will do, you will definitely be in pocket.

During our first month we learnt plenty – and so we gathered all our lessons in one place so that we can easily share these with others. We also have compiled a ‘Getting By in Greek’ document, which is included in this blog that will help you master some of the language basics – the Greeks, much like any nation love to hear visitors speaking in their tongue. Click here for our insights and your Language Guide.

And so there we have it – Greece in a nutshell – at least based on our experiences there. It really is a fabulous love affair with the landscape, the culture and the people.  Want to know what all the fuss is about? Then go and start your own Greek Odyssey. It will enrich you, entertain you and enthral you. Your visit is callin you….

Antio sas!

 

 

Eastern Europe Camping Highlights

Eastern Europe Camping Highlights

Being in our camper allows us to change our vista every day, if we wish, and gives us the freedom to get into the heart of the countryside, in amongst nature.

Travelling is such a privilege and feels even more so when you can take your home with you wherever you go. Being in our camper allows us to change our vista every day, if we wish, and gives us the freedom to get into the heart of the countryside, in amongst nature.  During our 18 months of full-timing we’ve encountered a range of ‘homes’ from wild sites on cliff tops, to fields that resembled nothing short of a glorified car park, to the charm of a five van Aire in a tiny French village in the middle of nowhere.

2017 has been the year of (ad)venturing further east away from the relative comfort of Western Europe.  We left our traditional lives in UK to push the boundaries, to explore and find the road less travelled, so at some stage the call east was bound to resound.  So what would Eastern Europe bring us, how would we fair camping in the Balkan lands?  Shrouded in Communistic shadows and media spin, we had a little trepidation about what to expect.  Today we want to put the record straight.  The Balkans is stunningly beautiful section of Europe and needs us to indulge our curious spirits.  Although my focus for this blog is more about camping in this eastern land rather than advocating the countryside beauty.  Come read about our camping highlights; we stayed at lots of great spots, although these are our favourites and deserve a bit of publicity and promotion.

The Balkans is stunningly beautiful section of Europe and needs us to indulge our curious spirits.

Finding good campsites is not difficult anywhere in Europe although their quality does vary dramatically.  And interestingly that’s rarely to do with the country and more to do with the people who run it or who lovingly create it, we have found.  Spending five months travelling through Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary and Slovenia (in 2016),  we have been introduced to some great camping experiences; in fact some of our best ‘homes’ feature in this latest tour. Here we have taken the opportunity to show-case our favourite, must-visit Eastern Europe and Balkan camping beauties in the hope that they give you the inspiration and comfort to head over this way. *(All prices are for a MOHO, two people and electricity.)

Greek Gorgeousness

Camping Nicholas II – Epidavros; Peloponnese – ACSI (37.630003 23.158203) http://mouria.gr/en/nicolas-ii/

This is one of two sites run by the same family, although in our opinion, this was the best.  A small terraced site about 3km from Nea Epidavros on the eastern thumb of the Peloponnese.  €19 out of season with ACSI.  The site is narrow and pitches a bit tight to manoeuvre into if you have a rig longer than 7.5 metres, although it is a beautiful spot, right on the edge of the sea.  With great shade to ward off the Greece sunshine, this site offers a relaxed place to rest up for a couple of nights with the town within easy reach by bicycle and the Amphitheatre not more than a 30 minute drive away.  Good showers are available, with a restaurant next door that has a good reputation, although we didn’t eat there.

Camping ‘No Problem’ – Agios Galini, Crete ACSI (35.099947 24.694821)

Camping ‘No Problem’

This is another family run and small site that whilst, like many campsites in Greece, have little pitch structure, has a certain charm.  Only a couple of minutes walk to the beach and only ten minutes from the delightful Agios Galini, Camping ‘No Problem’ is great for a week or two.  Hiring a car from the town nearby, gives you easy access to the surrounding southern beaches and the campsite’s restaurant is superb, offering a high quality and good value meal.  And the swimming pool is to die for, especially at the beginning of the season when you have the snow-peaked mountains as your backdrop view.

Camping Vachros – Kastraki, Greece mainland (39.713493 21.615812) ACSI www.campingkastraki.com

Meteora is one of those unique sites around the world that will never leave your heart.  It gets under your skin and you find yourself transported to a very special place of awestruck loveliness.  Staying at Camping Vachros right on the fringe of the National Park is a joy, especially when you see the view from the swimming pool. You are within five minutes walk to the village and only a 10 minute drive to the first of your floating monasteries.  It is an incredibly special place and feels a privilege to visit.  Aside from the pool, the campsite has plenty of pitches, decent shower facilities and a restaurant run by the family.  It costs €18 per night.

Bulgaria Beauties

Camping Kromidovo, Kromidovo (41.454460 23.3629940). www.campingkromidovo.com

After leaving our love affair with Greece behind, we wondered how life in Bulgaria would fare for us. In fact what would Bulgaria be like as an experience, altogether?  Well after a simple crossing over the border, our fears were allayed immediately. Good roads, beautiful countryside with vineyards, rolling hills and a super campsite waiting for us within 20 minutes of arriving in Bulgaria.  Result!  English couple, Sara and John moved over to Bulgaria to set up this lovely campsite, which has more of a feel of their back garden than anything stuffy from a commercial site.  With only  eight or so spots, free wifi and fantastic shower facilities, Sara and John make you feel so welcome.  Sat in the foothills of the Pirin Mountains, you have so much to explore as you ground yourself in the Bulgarian culture.  Try Melnik, only 11km away, which is easily reached by bicycle, for a great introduction to the Bulgarian architecture and way of life – oh and a bit of wine! Low season €16, high season €17.  Bargain!

Camping Alexandrovo – nr Haskovo (41.987199 25.726452) www.campingalexandrovo.com

Welcomed by Matt, a lovely guy from England, Camping Alexandrovo is a delight.  Another site that is more like a back garden, Matt’s place oozes beauty, views and security.  Whilst the village isn’t pretty and doesn’t offer anything much, when you’re behind his walled garden nothing else matters.  It’s a great spot to just chill out after a busy Bulgaria tour of either the northern or southern regions.  Just east of Plovdiv, this is a great spot for checking out the city or heading further east to Turkey, which is only a couple of hours away.  And you have to get up early for the sunrise, which is something else!  Hammocks, a brick built barbecue and great facilities await you here and we highly recommend this restful retreat. Only €17.50 in high season!  Check out our Drone footage below!

Romantic Romania

Camping Dan – Danube Delta, Murighiol  (45.040556 29.156389) www.campingdanpescarul.ro

This is a beautiful, homely campsite run by Nina and her fisherman husband Dan.  You are in their back garden, which is so tenderly cared for, with good facilities and the opportunity to go out with Dan at 6.00am or 5.00pm for a trip on his fishing boat into the Delta.  For €25pp for two hours, this is a unique experience that gets you into the heart of this precious ecosystem, which is the second largest delta in Europe.  If you love photography and nature, then this is a must-do place for your travelling agenda.  And all this for only €10 per night.  Bargain.

 

Pensuinea Alpin Ranch – Zarnesti, Transylvania  (45.578274 25.344021) www.alpin-ranch.com/ro/

This was a gorgeous little find, hidden in the hills behind Zarnesti and so much nicer than the touristic Bran’s Castle about 20 minutes away.  We loved it here.  Whilst the approach to the Guest House owned by Constantino and Otilia is steep and a bit tricky to navigate, it is doable and their lower garden area is beautiful. With Zorro the Shetland pony to entertain you and an afternoon tea perhaps from Otilia, you will feel very much at home.  The facilities are a little basic, although the charm of the owners (who speak English and German) and the surroundings absolutely make up for it.  And for only €14 per night, it’s good value too.  You can cycle or drive to the Liberty Bear Sanctuary, which is only 15 minutes away, which is a very humbling experience.  Check out our blog here.

Hungry for Hungary

Camping Makó – Makó (46.203451 20.456136) ACSI www.campingmako.hu

Camping Makó

Run by a Dutch couple, this motel and medium sized campsite is a perfect stopover en route to or from Romania, being only 30 minutes away from the border.  There’s no structured pitches and basic facilities, although it has a non-commercialised and informal feel to it.  As you drive in you are welcomed with Hungarian flags and their own church, which has some interesting history!  Underneath the trees you get great shade and you are not far from the river where you can hire a boat or two.  They have a restaurant offering local fare, although we didn’t eat there.  There are plenty of walks just outside of the campsite and you are only five minutes drive away from what looked like a charming thermal town with its own Spa and Baths.  Well worth a look around if you have time.  €18 per night.

Camping Haller Budapest (47.476100 19.083640) ACSI www.hallercamping.hu

Whilst this site wasn’t salubrious and has a commercial feel to it, it was ideal for visiting Budapest.  You are only a 15 minute walk to the Danube and museums, from which you can then pick up trams and only 10 minutes walk from the station where you can buy your travel tickets for getting around the city.  Tram number 24 stops right outside the campground.  The facilities aren’t great, although there are plenty of parking spots and a restaurant if you don’t fancy cooking.  We found an amazing restaurant in town, close to the Parliament Buildings, which we highly recommend.  Click here for our review.   Surprisingly, Camping Haller is not as noisy as you might expect from an inner city campsite and at only €18 per night and really cheap washing machine facilities – it’s a super place to explore the city.

Camping Hintohaz – Somogygeszti (46.544304 17.944119) ACSI  www.kempinghintohaz.nl

Our final and best camping spot in our brief sojourn in Hungary was Camping Hintohaz. Run by Dutchman André, you will be greeted with a friendly and informal welcome, a drink from the bar and a wonderfully terraced campsite with excellent facilities.  In fact one of the best shower blocks we have seen in Eastern Europe.  André has put a huge investment into the campsite and with its beautifully grassed areas, you have tranquility, countryside views and comfort.  There was no ‘locked gate until you pay’ policy here, unlike another campsite we experienced in Hungary.  We highly recommend coming to this campsite if you’re close by.  Whilst there isn’t much to do in the surrounding area, sometimes this is just what you need.  André is keen to share a bit of Hungarian history, which is wonderful and his warmth is palpable.  And only for €10 per night.  This is an absolute must visit.

Check out our Drone footage here:

Perfectly Poland

After seven weeks in Poland in the summer of 2018, we were blessed with 34 different places to stay, of which 12 were campsites. Sites here are often eclectic, although always delightful and our spot best sites were:

Camping Polana Sosny – Dunajec (49.40475, 20.33288) ACSI www.niedzica.pl

This was a super campsite nestled in between Dunajec Reservoir with its grand historic castle and the fast-flowing Dunajec river. At just £10 per night, which even in August has plenty of space, this is a steal. 2 miles away from the castle, just up on the dam for a gorgeous sunset and you can book river kayaks from here too. We did a 22 mile cycle that took us left from the site into Slovakia and then we followed the river path for 14 miles before crossing the bridge and then coming through the forest. What a stunning location.

Camping Polana Sosny, Dunajec

Camping Polana Sosny, Dunajec

Castle Dunajec, Poland

Castle Dunajec, Poland

Camping Kaputy – Warsaw (52.2305, 20.7919) ACSI  www.camping222.pl

A super ACSI site that gave you a 10% discount even though it was summer season. Attached to a hotel, the grounds were well managed and the facilities excellent. A bus stopped just outside the campsite for Warsaw although it looked a bit of a trek, so we moved to the secure parking on the day we wanted to visit the city. Highly recommend this lovely spot.

Camping Kaputy Warsaw

Camping Kaputy Warsaw

 

Sumptuous Slovakia

Camping Podlestok  (48.9644, 20.38524) www.podlesok.sk
Slovakia actually a perfectly sumptuous place to wild camp and in our three weeks there we only had five nights in a campsite. Although this one is in the heart of an amazing National Park, which if you love challenging hikes, is a must.
The campsite is a bit uneven although with chocks is ok. There’s a number of hook up points up at the top of the campsite. You need to buy .50c tokens for the washing machine and shower (which lasts 3 mins) The same token does a 1hr wash. For a night and two people with EHU it cost €17.50 in August and with walks directly from the site, it really is an ideal spot.
Camping Podlesok Paradise National Park.

Camping Podlesok Paradise National Park.

 

So, what can we say?  Central and Eastern Europe are full of treasure, warmth, incredible sights and experiences and wonderful places to stay. If you love wild camping, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and Slovakia are particular good as long as you abide by the values of discretion, respect and giving back.  Recent history may well have tarnished the countries’ reputation, although they are rebuilding their lives, growing stronger and with their resilience are fight back to earn their rightful place in people’s affections.  Central and Eastern Europe are not to be feared – they are only to be loved. Cost of living is a bonus to the experience of travelling through these wonderful countries and we cannot recommend more highly some time in these delightful, unassuming and peaceful places.  Come East, you’ll not regret it!

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