Stelvio Pass – Bucket List Drive

Stelvio Pass – Bucket List Drive

Stelvio Pass, Italy – are you game for the ride of your life that gets your heart pumping, your legs wobbling and your eyes bulging with all the incredible scenery? A ride that takes you from the edge of your seat to the edge of fear – and back again.

We had the Stelvio Pass in our sights from the outset of our ‘life on the road’, as we were driven by living beyond our fear. Although for all sorts of reasons, it didn’t happen. Then we had the chance to drive the Transfagarasan Pass, which was soon followed up by the outstanding TransAlpin Route, both in Romania. And what a thrill they both were. So what could beat that experience, especially when the Transfag has been voted ‘the best’ by UK’s ultimate petrol-heads from the Top Gear team?

After crossing through Austria and having to by-pass the Großglockner route because of the threat of 15cm of white stuff, we found ourselves in the Dolomites in Italy. We’ve seen these majestic peaks, with their angular spikes towering over the Venetian region, many a time, so to actually be driving within them was just magical. With scenery looking akin to a Canadian tourist brochure, we were totally wowed by the whole region. Although yet again the weather dampened our spirits, quite literally – low cloud and drizzle meant that any exploration had to be in our dreams – for now it just wasn’t meant to be.

That was until we woke up to clear blue skies after a fabulous wild spot at Cinque Torri cable car, (46.51894, 12.03837). In a flash we had changed our plans and in a fit of child-like giddiness, decided to hit the road and head to Stelvio Pass. It was only four hours away after all! A piece of cake.

Click on the image below to see some of our favourite pictures…

After plenty of ooh’s and ahh’s around every corner, we wondered how on earth we could beat this drive on the Falzarego and Gardena Passes. Although Stelvio is one of those Bucket List places, especially if you seek memorable and adrenalin pumping experience. So onward we drove, past Bolzano – famous for its capital status of the southern Tyrol region and home to the infamous ‘Iceman’ Ötzi – a Neolithic mummy. Heading north, the valley transforms; its angular construction morphs into a more undulating spectacle, with the mountains crocheted with acres of vineyards and patchwork apple orchards. In September to see the fruit literally dripping from the tiny trees is almost as iconic as the Tuscan grape vineyards further south. Every 100m we found a road-side seller enticing us to stop and take the ‘red apple’. Tempting as it was, it was not food we craved – it was the secret hidden within the heart of those towering giants who beckoned us.

Within only 90 minutes and around 50 miles from Bolzano we soon started to see the famous brown signs that told us all we needed to know – Stelvio was coming!

With thirty thousand devices at the ready to record our adventure, we entered the Stelvio Park. At first we were greeted by pine clad forests, sweeping roads and alpine villages that perch over the ice-blue river, which courses its way from the upper glaciers. Little did we know what lay ahead. Slowly we climbed and we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves – until the wiggles began. They were gentle at first and then they became steeper, tighter and more heart-pumping. 48 switchback bends awaited us for our uphill trek and for the first 10 or so it was exhilarating. Yet soon they became more challenging and our strings became tighter and the air a little more blue as expletives of disbelief became common-place. Our fear, for now was being silenced by the adrenaline rush of the adventure.

The picture-postcard perfection filled our windscreen – snow capped mountains looming large in front of us, so close we could almost touch them and feel their chill. For a moment the Dolomites became a distant memory as we became hypnotised by Stelvio’s beauty.  At bend 31 (which at the time we hadn’t actually clocked meant there were still another 30 to go) we stopped for some lunch. With legs a little like jelly after navigating 19, 180 degree bends, we took a breather and enjoyed the scenery.  This spot would have made a fantastic place to overnight with our camper and whilst the view was seriously winning the battle to make us stay, Myles was keen to get towards the top – which, after all was only 5 miles away. What could possibly go wrong?

One thing that motivated us to continue was a German outfit that parked up next to us whilst we were having lunch. A guy poised with his camera stood as if in wait for someone or something – and of all the things we could have anticipated – UNICYCLES would not have been one of them. Really? Yes seriously, two guys were in training and cycled all the way up the top of the Stelvio Pass, all 50 odd switch backs on UNICYCLES. Are they mad?  I couldn’t imagine doing that on a bicycle let alone a Unicycle. All praise to them.

With just a bit of fuel inside our bellies we carried on and it didn’t take very many more bends to reveal the truth behind the mere 5 mile challenge. The stark realisation was that the snake-like bends ahead of us formed the vertical route we HAD to drive up. For a second we did think about turning around, as we had already had a little scrape on the back skirt, although we had come this far – we were not about to stop.

One bend at a time. Me craning my neck to see descending traffic and Myles, with the strength of an ox and steely determination, driving wide; first gear, slowly does it, pathway clear, gentle acceleration – another bend successfully completed.

I’ll be honest, at this point, our experiences of Romania’s Transfagarasan Pass seemed like child’s play – this was so much more of a stretching and challenging drive. Not that we like to compare, although this road was more technical. So, sorry Top Gear boys – we think Stelvio beats Transfag hands down for pure driving skill.

Whilst neither of us said it out loud, I think our fear took over our excitement at this point and whilst it was thrilling, the switchbacks are relentless and they test you as driver and a navigator. I think above all it is the traffic that causes as much of an issue as anything; cyclists, buses, sports cars, motorbikes all buzzing around you and with a rig that is 7.5m long, our need to take a wide course was imperative. Still we did it and we would not have missed the experience – it really made us feel alive.

Reaching our summit spot for the night was both a relief and a highlight as we gazed in disbelief down the valley to see the path we travelled.  It is a vision that made me feel proud; proud of Myles’ skill, proud of my calmness, and proud of sticking with it. It was one of our greatest accomplishments since we took to the road. And the reward was heart-filling. With glaciers at eye-line level, chunky marmots playing in the late afternoon sun and choughs flying past our window, we forgave ourselves for feeling just a little smug. It took an hour or so to calm down, although with a ‘home’ like this we soon relaxed into it.

Check out our video footage of this crazy experience by clicking the video below….

 

Given the ascent, we knew we still had to get down! Would that be as hairy we wondered? To be on the safe side, we decided to head out early, yet despite this there was still plenty of traffic around. I had read that the ‘other side’ was grey and boring in comparison – well take it from me – do not listen to that crazy notion. It is different that is for sure although boring, NO WAY.

The roads are more sweeping and the bends much easier to handle with plenty of places to stop for pictures. As we flirted with the Swiss border, we did, for a moment consider turning right into the Swiss National Park, although we wanted to say that we had ‘done’ Stelvio, in all its glory. We were treated to the most amazing waterfalls, the sight of marmots up close and tunnels that were, at times, just a little challenging. We loved the trip down and for us both it was a much more relaxed affair, where we could enjoy the scenery without such an intense feeling. After an hour we found ourselves in Bormio and we were soon on our way towards to the Italian lakes. And whilst our experience of Stelvio was now officially complete, the van was intact, as were our nerves, I felt just a little sad. I was sad because Stelvio is an onslaught of the senses and with 60 or so switchbacks, often our need to concentrate overtook our ability to absorb our surroundings. So I would love to do it again to really soak up the experience.  Still we have done it – I’m so thrilled that we did it and would definitely recommend it.

Here are some facts and tips for making your Stelvio memorable, for all the right reasons.

Did you know…

  • The Stelvio Pass is almost 200 years old?
  • It was constructed by an Austrian Emperor who wanted to join the valley to his homeland.
  • It is pretty much unchanged since that time.
  • It reaches over 2,700m high and is 31 miles long – 49km.
  • There are around 60 hairpin bends and 6 tunnels (although we lost count of the switchbacks after 20 as we were concentrating too much.)
  • For 2 days at the end of August/beginning of September the route is closed to the public, allowing only cyclist to use the road. Do check the exact dates before heading this way.
  • Even Sterling Moss, the greatest driver in the world, got into difficulties’ whilst travelling Stelvio.
  • Stelvio may not be the most dangerous, although it is the highest paved road in the Eastern Alps.
  • Unlike the Großglockner Pass in Austria’s Tyrol mountains, there is no toll road fee. Enjoy it free of charge – except for the energy you will expend in concentration and the petrol you will consume!

 

Tips for making your own Bucket List trip…

  • We suggest to be kind to your breaks that you do the route from the northern edge from Balzano south to Bormio. It is far easier to navigate the switchbacks uphill.
  • Whilst the route is open from May to September, always check the weather before undertaking the journey as unseasonal conditions can affect the area.
  • The 31 miles will take you around 3 hours to negotiate, so time it right if you need to do it in one day.
  • We recommend if travelling with a camper that you take two days and find one of the amazing wild spots to stay overnight. The light of the sunset and sunrise is magical.
  • Avoid the road during the high season; July and August, especially the  weekends as the volume of traffic will undoubtedly impact on the whole experience.
  • Travel early or late if you want to minimise the traffic element of your drive. Whilst there are still plenty of people on the road, we certainly encountered less buses in the morning run.
  • For more information check this website out.
  • It might sound strange, although it is worth checking your brake pads especially if you are travelling in a camper and intend to go south to north from Bormio. No harm in checking all is well. You do not want to be half way down and finding your pads are thinning.
  • If you are taking a camper whilst small buses do bomb up and down, we agreed that anything over 8m would be more of a stretch on this road and if you have a trailer, we suggest finding a campsite and leaving it behind.

We totally loved this road, as we look back. Whilst we were in the moment it was one of the most difficult drives we have ever done, the thrill and aliveness you feel whilst doing it make it completely worth it.  Safe travels for your bucket list ride.

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Balkan Road-trip 2017

Balkan Road-trip 2017

As we look back at 2017 and our highlights – Eastern Europe is going to always stand out to us. Whilst we love Western Europe, our curious souls sought more cultural education and east was where our hearts took us.

Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and all too briefly, Hungary. What delights these countries were with history, nature, cultural diversity and a world that has been teetering on the edge of communism into the European Union. What a fabulous six months we had.

To bring our experiences to life, we have produced an interactive map that shows not only all the camping spots we stayed at during our tour, some of the highlights too. Combining our videos, Drone footage and blogs, you have one resource all in one place.

So if Eastern Europe is calling you for 2018 – then this interactive map complete with pictures and co-ordinates is all you need to ignite your plans.  We hope that it gives you some seriously entertaining travel inspiration.

Click on any of the icons on the map for more information about each place we visited. Please bear in mind that we started from Italy, headed over to Greece, then had a short trip to Crete and then headed north through Bulgaria and Romania before having a short period in Hungary.

 

 

 

Celebration Series – Nature

Celebration Series – Nature

Free Resource – Download Now!

As part of our 18 months on the road Celebration Series, we are sharing our Top 25 Nature Beauties.  

During our time on the road we have been privileged to witness the most incredible scenery, landscapes and wildlife.  We have tried to capture our best bits in one place in this INFOGRAPHIC which you can download for free.  Click HERE to download your own copy.

From Spain, to France, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and Slovenia; here are just a few of our favourite things…..

Enjoy with our love and we hope it inspires you to put these places on your list.

Free INFOGRAPHIC to download HERE

 

 

Eastern Europe Camping Highlights

Eastern Europe Camping Highlights

Being in our camper allows us to change our vista every day, if we wish, and gives us the freedom to get into the heart of the countryside, in amongst nature.

Travelling is such a privilege and feels even more so when you can take your home with you wherever you go. Being in our camper allows us to change our vista every day, if we wish, and gives us the freedom to get into the heart of the countryside, in amongst nature.  During our 18 months of full-timing we’ve encountered a range of ‘homes’ from wild sites on cliff tops, to fields that resembled nothing short of a glorified car park, to the charm of a five van Aire in a tiny French village in the middle of nowhere.

2017 has been the year of (ad)venturing further east away from the relative comfort of Western Europe.  We left our traditional lives in UK to push the boundaries, to explore and find the road less travelled, so at some stage the call east was bound to resound.  So what would Eastern Europe bring us, how would we fair camping in the Balkan lands?  Shrouded in Communistic shadows and media spin, we had a little trepidation about what to expect.  Today we want to put the record straight.  The Balkans is stunningly beautiful section of Europe and needs us to indulge our curious spirits.  Although my focus for this blog is more about camping in this eastern land rather than advocating the countryside beauty.  Come read about our camping highlights; we stayed at lots of great spots, although these are our favourites and deserve a bit of publicity and promotion.

The Balkans is stunningly beautiful section of Europe and needs us to indulge our curious spirits.

Finding good campsites is not difficult anywhere in Europe although their quality does vary dramatically.  And interestingly that’s rarely to do with the country and more to do with the people who run it or who lovingly create it, we have found.  Spending five months travelling through Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Hungary and Slovenia (in 2016),  we have been introduced to some great camping experiences; in fact some of our best ‘homes’ feature in this latest tour. Here we have taken the opportunity to show-case our favourite, must-visit Eastern Europe and Balkan camping beauties in the hope that they give you the inspiration and comfort to head over this way. *(All prices are for a MOHO, two people and electricity.)

Greek Gorgeousness

Camping Nicholas II – Epidavros; Peloponnese – ACSI (37.630003 23.158203) http://mouria.gr/en/nicolas-ii/

This is one of two sites run by the same family, although in our opinion, this was the best.  A small terraced site about 3km from Nea Epidavros on the eastern thumb of the Peloponnese.  €19 out of season with ACSI.  The site is narrow and pitches a bit tight to manoeuvre into if you have a rig longer than 7.5 metres, although it is a beautiful spot, right on the edge of the sea.  With great shade to ward off the Greece sunshine, this site offers a relaxed place to rest up for a couple of nights with the town within easy reach by bicycle and the Amphitheatre not more than a 30 minute drive away.  Good showers are available, with a restaurant next door that has a good reputation, although we didn’t eat there.

Camping ‘No Problem’ – Agios Galini, Crete ACSI (35.099947 24.694821)

Camping ‘No Problem’

This is another family run and small site that whilst, like many campsites in Greece, have little pitch structure, has a certain charm.  Only a couple of minutes walk to the beach and only ten minutes from the delightful Agios Galini, Camping ‘No Problem’ is great for a week or two.  Hiring a car from the town nearby, gives you easy access to the surrounding southern beaches and the campsite’s restaurant is superb, offering a high quality and good value meal.  And the swimming pool is to die for, especially at the beginning of the season when you have the snow-peaked mountains as your backdrop view.

Camping Vachros – Kastraki, Greece mainland (39.713493 21.615812) ACSI www.campingkastraki.com

Meteora is one of those unique sites around the world that will never leave your heart.  It gets under your skin and you find yourself transported to a very special place of awestruck loveliness.  Staying at Camping Vachros right on the fringe of the National Park is a joy, especially when you see the view from the swimming pool. You are within five minutes walk to the village and only a 10 minute drive to the first of your floating monasteries.  It is an incredibly special place and feels a privilege to visit.  Aside from the pool, the campsite has plenty of pitches, decent shower facilities and a restaurant run by the family.  It costs €18 per night.

Bulgaria Beauties

Camping Kromidovo, Kromidovo (41.454460 23.3629940). www.campingkromidovo.com

After leaving our love affair with Greece behind, we wondered how life in Bulgaria would fare for us. In fact what would Bulgaria be like as an experience, altogether?  Well after a simple crossing over the border, our fears were allayed immediately. Good roads, beautiful countryside with vineyards, rolling hills and a super campsite waiting for us within 20 minutes of arriving in Bulgaria.  Result!  English couple, Sara and John moved over to Bulgaria to set up this lovely campsite, which has more of a feel of their back garden than anything stuffy from a commercial site.  With only  eight or so spots, free wifi and fantastic shower facilities, Sara and John make you feel so welcome.  Sat in the foothills of the Pirin Mountains, you have so much to explore as you ground yourself in the Bulgarian culture.  Try Melnik, only 11km away, which is easily reached by bicycle, for a great introduction to the Bulgarian architecture and way of life – oh and a bit of wine! Low season €16, high season €17.  Bargain!

Camping Alexandrovo – nr Haskovo (41.987199 25.726452) www.campingalexandrovo.com

Welcomed by Matt, a lovely guy from England, Camping Alexandrovo is a delight.  Another site that is more like a back garden, Matt’s place oozes beauty, views and security.  Whilst the village isn’t pretty and doesn’t offer anything much, when you’re behind his walled garden nothing else matters.  It’s a great spot to just chill out after a busy Bulgaria tour of either the northern or southern regions.  Just east of Plovdiv, this is a great spot for checking out the city or heading further east to Turkey, which is only a couple of hours away.  And you have to get up early for the sunrise, which is something else!  Hammocks, a brick built barbecue and great facilities await you here and we highly recommend this restful retreat. Only €17.50 in high season!  Check out our Drone footage below!

Romantic Romania

Camping Dan – Danube Delta, Murighiol  (45.040556 29.156389) www.campingdanpescarul.ro

This is a beautiful, homely campsite run by Nina and her fisherman husband Dan.  You are in their back garden, which is so tenderly cared for, with good facilities and the opportunity to go out with Dan at 6.00am or 5.00pm for a trip on his fishing boat into the Delta.  For €25pp for two hours, this is a unique experience that gets you into the heart of this precious ecosystem, which is the second largest delta in Europe.  If you love photography and nature, then this is a must-do place for your travelling agenda.  And all this for only €10 per night.  Bargain.

 

Pensuinea Alpin Ranch – Zarnesti, Transylvania  (45.578274 25.344021) www.alpin-ranch.com/ro/

This was a gorgeous little find, hidden in the hills behind Zarnesti and so much nicer than the touristic Bran’s Castle about 20 minutes away.  We loved it here.  Whilst the approach to the Guest House owned by Constantino and Otilia is steep and a bit tricky to navigate, it is doable and their lower garden area is beautiful. With Zorro the Shetland pony to entertain you and an afternoon tea perhaps from Otilia, you will feel very much at home.  The facilities are a little basic, although the charm of the owners (who speak English and German) and the surroundings absolutely make up for it.  And for only €14 per night, it’s good value too.  You can cycle or drive to the Liberty Bear Sanctuary, which is only 15 minutes away, which is a very humbling experience.  Check out our blog here.

Hungry for Hungary

Camping Makó – Makó (46.203451 20.456136) ACSI www.campingmako.hu

Camping Makó

Run by a Dutch couple, this motel and medium sized campsite is a perfect stopover en route to or from Romania, being only 30 minutes away from the border.  There’s no structured pitches and basic facilities, although it has a non-commercialised and informal feel to it.  As you drive in you are welcomed with Hungarian flags and their own church, which has some interesting history!  Underneath the trees you get great shade and you are not far from the river where you can hire a boat or two.  They have a restaurant offering local fare, although we didn’t eat there.  There are plenty of walks just outside of the campsite and you are only five minutes drive away from what looked like a charming thermal town with its own Spa and Baths.  Well worth a look around if you have time.  €18 per night.

Camping Haller Budapest (47.476100 19.083640) ACSI www.hallercamping.hu

Whilst this site wasn’t salubrious and has a commercial feel to it, it was ideal for visiting Budapest.  You are only a 15 minute walk to the Danube and museums, from which you can then pick up trams and only 10 minutes walk from the station where you can buy your travel tickets for getting around the city.  Tram number 24 stops right outside the campground.  The facilities aren’t great, although there are plenty of parking spots and a restaurant if you don’t fancy cooking.  We found an amazing restaurant in town, close to the Parliament Buildings, which we highly recommend.  Click here for our review.   Surprisingly, Camping Haller is not as noisy as you might expect from an inner city campsite and at only €18 per night and really cheap washing machine facilities – it’s a super place to explore the city.

Camping Hintohaz – Somogygeszti (46.544304 17.944119) ACSI  www.kempinghintohaz.nl

Our final and best camping spot in our brief sojourn in Hungary was Camping Hintohaz. Run by Dutchman André, you will be greeted with a friendly and informal welcome, a drink from the bar and a wonderfully terraced campsite with excellent facilities.  In fact one of the best shower blocks we have seen in Eastern Europe.  André has put a huge investment into the campsite and with its beautifully grassed areas, you have tranquility, countryside views and comfort.  There was no ‘locked gate until you pay’ policy here, unlike another campsite we experienced in Hungary.  We highly recommend coming to this campsite if you’re close by.  Whilst there isn’t much to do in the surrounding area, sometimes this is just what you need.  André is keen to share a bit of Hungarian history, which is wonderful and his warmth is palpable.  And only for €10 per night.  This is an absolute must visit.

Check out our Drone footage here:

Perfectly Poland

After seven weeks in Poland in the summer of 2018, we were blessed with 34 different places to stay, of which 12 were campsites. Sites here are often eclectic, although always delightful and our spot best sites were:

Camping Polana Sosny – Dunajec (49.40475, 20.33288) ACSI www.niedzica.pl

This was a super campsite nestled in between Dunajec Reservoir with its grand historic castle and the fast-flowing Dunajec river. At just £10 per night, which even in August has plenty of space, this is a steal. 2 miles away from the castle, just up on the dam for a gorgeous sunset and you can book river kayaks from here too. We did a 22 mile cycle that took us left from the site into Slovakia and then we followed the river path for 14 miles before crossing the bridge and then coming through the forest. What a stunning location.

Camping Polana Sosny, Dunajec

Camping Polana Sosny, Dunajec

Castle Dunajec, Poland

Castle Dunajec, Poland

Camping Kaputy – Warsaw (52.2305, 20.7919) ACSI  www.camping222.pl

A super ACSI site that gave you a 10% discount even though it was summer season. Attached to a hotel, the grounds were well managed and the facilities excellent. A bus stopped just outside the campsite for Warsaw although it looked a bit of a trek, so we moved to the secure parking on the day we wanted to visit the city. Highly recommend this lovely spot.

Camping Kaputy Warsaw

Camping Kaputy Warsaw

 

Sumptuous Slovakia

Camping Podlestok  (48.9644, 20.38524) www.podlesok.sk
Slovakia actually a perfectly sumptuous place to wild camp and in our three weeks there we only had five nights in a campsite. Although this one is in the heart of an amazing National Park, which if you love challenging hikes, is a must.
The campsite is a bit uneven although with chocks is ok. There’s a number of hook up points up at the top of the campsite. You need to buy .50c tokens for the washing machine and shower (which lasts 3 mins) The same token does a 1hr wash. For a night and two people with EHU it cost €17.50 in August and with walks directly from the site, it really is an ideal spot.
Camping Podlesok Paradise National Park.

Camping Podlesok Paradise National Park.

 

So, what can we say?  Central and Eastern Europe are full of treasure, warmth, incredible sights and experiences and wonderful places to stay. If you love wild camping, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania and Slovakia are particular good as long as you abide by the values of discretion, respect and giving back.  Recent history may well have tarnished the countries’ reputation, although they are rebuilding their lives, growing stronger and with their resilience are fight back to earn their rightful place in people’s affections.  Central and Eastern Europe are not to be feared – they are only to be loved. Cost of living is a bonus to the experience of travelling through these wonderful countries and we cannot recommend more highly some time in these delightful, unassuming and peaceful places.  Come East, you’ll not regret it!

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The Real Dracula’s Castle?

They say that Bran castle is most associated with Vlad the Impaler, aka Dracula,  but rumour has it that it’s this set of ruins, Poenari Citadel,  has more history. At the foot of the Transfagarasan Pass, Poenari is a climb to get to but the views are spectacular.